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Hehuanshan, also known as Harmony Mountain, is a high mountainous region in Nantou County, Taiwan. This area boasts majestic peaks exceeding 3000 meters, attracting nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers from around the world. Nearby, the famous Cingjing Farm features lush green meadows and scenic pathways. During clear skies, my journey to Cingjing and Hehuanshan was truly captivating.
View from Cingjing Farm towards Hehuanshan
My flight from Ho Chi Minh City landed in Taichung in the evening, and with public transportation unavailable, I pre-booked a stay at Tian Hsiang Tea B&B. The accommodating host arranged a shared ride from Taichung Airport to the B&B. The journey whisked me and another guest along the expressway towards the east as the sun set behind the towering buildings of Taichung city.
It took about 1 hour and 30 minutes to cover the journey of over 100km from the airport to the accommodation. As the car entered highway 14 towards Ren’ai Township, I had to sit more upright to navigate the winding mountainous roads. Highway 14 is an east-west provincial highway, connecting Changhua and Nantou, spanning approximately 99km. Branching off, provincial highway 14A passes through Cingjing Farm, Wuling Alley, traverses Hehuanshan, and ends at Dayuling in Hualien. Provincial highway 14A is the highest asphalt road in Taiwan, accessible by car and motorcycle. There are buses from Taichung to Cingjing Farm, but they operate only until around 12:30 PM daily.
Upon arriving at Tian Hsiang Tea B&B, the night had fallen, and the owner was absent. However, he left all the necessary information for me to explore everything on my own. The guesthouse is conveniently located near the bus station, facilitating easy transportation. Tian Hsiang Tea B&B offers rooms at 2,600 TWD ~ 2,000,000 VND per night, inclusive of breakfast. During my stay, breakfast included a variety of dishes, including rice porridge with nearly 20 side dishes such as salted eggs, pickled eggs, pickled cucumbers, soybeans, and more. Some were new flavors for me, both unique and delicious.
Charming Tian Hsiang Tea B&B
Balcony with a mountainous view at Tian Hsiang Tea B&B
Cingjing Farm
The bus ride from Tian Hsiang Tea B&B takes 20 minutes to reach Cingjing Farm. Established in 1961, Cingjing Farm boasts lush vegetation and a cool climate, surrounded by majestic hills. Each season at Cingjing has its own beauty, providing visitors with unique and enjoyable experiences.
Sheep grazing at Cingjing Farm
Swiss Garden
A European-style garden adorned with maple trees, beech trees, and various temperate flowers. Often likened to a miniature Switzerland, it's an ideal spot for beautiful photos with numerous landscapes such as windmills, ponds, stone benches, and European-style peaked-roof houses. As a nature enthusiast, this area didn't captivate me much.
Green Green Grasslands
A vast and stunning grassland where sheep graze freely. Through low fences, you can easily approach these gentle creatures. On holidays at 9:30 AM and 2:30 PM, Green Green Grasslands hosts entertaining sheep shearing and sheepdog shows. Each show lasts about 30 minutes. After the performance, you get close to the animals for interaction and feeding. In addition to enjoying the shows, you can participate in horseback riding under the guidance of a trainer, learn about farming, and sheep herding skills. When I arrived, the morning show was already over, so I didn't have the chance to experience it. If you want to catch the show, remember the schedule, and note that the stage is not covered, so it might be a bit sunny.
Green Green Grasslands
Stage of the sheep shearing show
Hiking on the trails
What I love most about Cingjing farm is the time spent strolling on the winding mountain trails. There are countless trails to choose from, each detailed on the map: Guangshan Trail, 487-Steps Trail, Sunset Trail, Cryptomeria Trail, Jade Lake Trail, Tea Garden Trail, Great Wall Trail, and Sakura Trail. Each trail has its own features; in one tour, you should select one or a few trails that suit you. I chose the Great Wall Trail to admire the lush green grasslands, then walked the Guangshan Trail to see sheep grazing and the majestic mountains surrounding.
Scenic views while walking at Cingjing farm
Trail for a leisurely stroll around Cingjing farm
Exploring Jade Lake
Many years ago, when Chiang Kai-shek came to inspect the area, he saw a sapphire blue lake surrounded by mountains and named it Jade Lake. The Jade Lake Trail will take you right to the lake. If you don't have enough time to walk there, you can still catch a glimpse of it while wandering around Cingjing farm.
Jade Lake seen from a distance
General Information about Cingjing Farm:
AddressEntrance TicketHow to get to Cingjing Farm from Taichung:Hehuanshan
Hehuanshan is part of the central mountain range of Taiwan, running from the north to the south of the island, with the highest peak being Xiuguluan (3,860m). Hehuanshan consists of several mountain peaks, with the northern peak (3,422m) and eastern peak (3,422m) being the highest.
The most budget-friendly sunrise tour at Hehuanshan is the Mandarin-speaking tour, priced at 550 TWD (~420,000 VND). English tours come at double the cost. The guesthouse arranged a Mandarin-speaking sunrise tour for me. The pickup was at 3:30 am, and as it was bitterly cold, the host lent me a warm jacket. If you don't have one, you can use the available jackets on the bus, although they might not be very clean.
Sunrise at Hehuanshan
The convoy of sunrise-viewing buses forms a long line, illuminating a stretch of mountain road with bright lights. Initially, they stop at an open space for stargazing. Surprisingly, in Taiwan, I could witness a sky full of stars. As guests from different buses gather, the guide uses a spotlight to point out constellations. Not understanding Mandarin, I simply stood in awe, gazing at the starry sky. The stargazing area had plenty of seating, but every spot was damp with dew.
After stargazing, the buses proceed to Hehuanshan and stop at a convenient spot to watch the sunrise behind the mountain peaks. The early morning air is crisp and cold, even when the first rays of sunlight appear. Despite the chilly weather, witnessing the sunrise over the mountains makes the early wake-up and cold worthwhile.
Sunrise at Hehuanshan
As the sun ascends, the tour buses transport guests back to the guesthouse. If the journey to the peak required headlights in the darkness, the return trip becomes a delightful adventure under the radiant sunlight. Being the only solo passenger in the bus, I sat in the front seat next to the driver. This position offered a broader and more complete view of the winding road, mountain cliffs, and deep valleys. The driver continued his commentary in a language I didn't understand, but at that moment, I only needed to appreciate the scenery. Everything was incredibly beautiful.
Golden sunshine bathes Hehuanshan
Majestic mountains bathed in morning sunlight
At some spots not obscured by trees, the driver stops the bus for tourists to admire the scenery and take photos. You'll witness the Hehuanshan mountain range: dense forests interspersed with patches of golden-swept grass. The drivers are enthusiastic about capturing photos for tourists, willing to crouch down on the ground, patiently snapping until the guests are satisfied. Thanks to the drivers, I also have beautiful pictures to bring back, even without accompanying friends.
The winding asphalt roads on Hehuanshan
Wuling Pass
On the way back to the guesthouse from the sunrise tour, the driver stops at Wuling Pass. This is a mountainous pass in the Hehuanshan area, formerly known as Sakuma Pass in Japanese. Initially, it was a trail of the Atayal indigenous people. When Japan occupied Taiwan, Governor Sakuma built a road to manage the local population and transport during the war. The road was named after Governor Sakuma. When the Kuomintang ruled Taiwan, Chiang Kai-shek visited this road and named it Wuling. When the cross-island highway was closed due to typhoon damage, Wuling became the only route in the region to cross the central mountain range from east to west.
Wuling Pass
Wuling is a popular destination for cycling enthusiasts. It is also a renowned stargazing and bird-watching location in Taiwan. Wuling Pass is the highest paved road in Taiwan, situated at an elevation of 3275m.
Wuling at an elevation of 3275m
In addition to Wuling Pass, on the way back, I also spotted the sign for Taroko National Park. This park occupies a significant portion of Hualien County, adjacent to Nantou.
Passing through Taroko National Park
Hiking at Hehuanshan
Sunrise tours only provide a brief visit to Hehuanshan, but if you have a passion for this mountainous region, you can spend an additional 1 to 2 days exploring the breathtaking hiking trails. The easiest is the Hehuanshan East Peak trail, with a length of only 2 km, featuring stone steps along the mountain slope. Slightly more challenging is the Mount Shimen trail, which is less than 3 km long. Although I didn't have the time to hike at Hehuanshan on this trip, if I have the opportunity to return, I will surely dedicate at least a day exclusively to Hehuanshan.
Cingjing Farm and Hehuanshan are my two favorite spots in Nantou Province, Taiwan. With Cingjing, I witnessed a harmonious blend of natural landscapes and human creativity. As for Hehuanshan, it offers a majestic and pristine wilderness. The natural scenery in both places is well-preserved, coupled with well-managed tourism services, providing me with an incredibly fulfilling journey.
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