Buzz
The Western Thanh land (Thanh Hoa) is increasingly captivating tourists with its majestic and poetic beauty. As we wander through the forests, we feel the peaceful life of the Thai, Mong, and Muong ethnic groups... along with the diverse landscape beyond expectations for a trip.
Exploring the Western Thanh region
Amidst many routes from Hanoi to the Western Thanh region, we followed the favorite dusty travel route of young travelers, running along National Highway 6, Hanoi - Mai Chau, then turning onto National Highway 15 to Thanh Hoa. After a long day of traveling, the group stayed overnight at the Co Luong intersection on National Highway 15 (belonging to Thanh Mai hamlet, Phu Thanh commune, Mai Chau) to rest for the next journey.
From the Co Luong intersection, we started to cross the bridge onto the dirt road along the Ma River bank. This road is truly a challenge for adventurers. On rainy days, the road becomes slippery and muddy. There are sections where we had to cross streams, and tourists had to hire local men with wooden poles to carry the vehicles across. The journey to Muong Lat town from the Co Luong intersection is over 70km with many difficulties, but afterwards, the majestic mountains and the rushing Ma River flowing through countless waterfalls are truly fascinating gifts for everyone.
In summer, during the day, we keenly feel the Laotian winds carrying hot, dry discomfort pressing against our bodies. At those times, everyone longs for a sudden rain shower. Passing through the Trung Son hydroelectric lake, the group suddenly found themselves lost in the fog from all sides. It was only afternoon, but everyone had to turn on the headlights of their motorcycles and could only move at a speed of 5 - 10km/h.
After conquering the misty path, the team looked back towards the distant mountain base and witnessed a breathtaking scene: white clouds drifting gracefully in the wind, embracing the forested peaks.
The Ma River near Muong Lat town stretched wide, its muddy waters reflecting the aftermath of a jungle rain. The homes and villages of the Thai and Hmong people nestled at the foot of the mountain. This place was not far from the Vietnam-Laos border. We spent a night in the town. The Mong and Thai people there still maintained their traditional cultural practices. As night fell, guests arrived, and the hosts stoked the fire, inviting each other to share aromatic corn wine and savor bites of buffalo meat cooked over the fire.
The next morning, the group continued their journey to visit the Ten Tan border gate, where border marker number 281 stood. Those interested in crossing into Laos to enjoy delicious beer can complete the necessary procedures at the relevant authorities.
After a few days of wandering in Muong Lat, the group began to return to National Highway 15 along a new route. It was the road through provincial road 520, skirting the slopes of the Pu Hu nature reserve. Everyone had to wrestle with each stretch of road to cover the full 210km before reaching Canh Nang town on National Highway 15 (Ba Thuoc district). At times, the road traversed a pass perched on the mountainside, surrounded by primeval forests.
The space was completely devoid of human presence, only the sounds of forest birds singing amidst the ancient trees. Occasionally, the group would stop by the roadside to rush towards a small stream to wash their faces, hands, and feet, dispelling some of the fatigue. It was rare to encounter a few people gathering forest bamboo shoots; they would smile warmly before quietly disappearing into the lush greenery of the forest.
The Pu Hu nature reserve is still largely untapped for mainstream tourism. Only a few small trekking groups, after obtaining permission from the Forest Ranger Station and being led by forest rangers, dare to explore the old-growth forest. The summit of Mount Hoc in Pu Hu, at 1,440m high, is considered the roof of this nature reserve.
Starting from Canh Nang town, the group began to cross the La Han Bridge spanning the Ma River, passing by the floating houses of fishermen… From here, the journey continued along National Highway 15C to explore the Pu Luong Nature Reserve. Our vehicle gradually advanced towards the dense forests of the highlands in Thanh land.
Passing through places like Ban Tom, Pho Doan, Lang Doc… everyone gradually found themselves immersed in the Pu Luong Nature Reserve without realizing it. From Pho Doan, finding the way to Ban Hieu, although only a few kilometers as the crow flies, required the members to navigate through winding dirt roads barely wide enough for a motorbike. Hence, everyone had their fair share of complaints!
With terraced rice fields cascading along the mountainside, Ban Hieu appeared amidst the serene backdrop of simple stilt houses. This place is close to the heart of the Pu Luong Nature Reserve. The community in Ban Hieu consists mainly of Thai people with a few Muong. The most beautiful sight in Ban Hieu that we discovered was the Hieu Waterfall nestled amidst perennially lush forests. The water cascades down from the mountaintop through rocky terrain, forming small pristine pools. These shallow pools allowed everyone to enjoy a refreshing dip.
Although not as majestic or towering, the allure of Hieu Waterfall lies in its untouched beauty. Around the waterfall, we spotted several simple thatched roof stilt houses. Despite not engaging in tourism, we enjoyed a delicious lunch with hospitable hosts. They readily caught chickens, fish to treat guests, and afterward, guests would pay whatever they felt appropriate.
Farewell to Ban Hieu, the group embarked on the journey to conquer the highlands of Son Ba Muoi. Fortunately for us, in 2016, the concrete road to the villages of Son, Ba, Muoi (belonging to Co Lung commune, Ba Thuoc district) was completed. The road to Son Ba Muoi, although only 15km long, features steep inclines with sharp curves along the mountainside. We constantly had to shift to gears 2 or even 1 as the engines strained to ascend every meter of the road.
As we ascended, the air grew cooler, the gusts of wind swept away the sweat. At the summit, at an altitude of over 1,500m above sea level, the climate was entirely different. The temperature at the peak and below differed by up to 10 degrees Celsius. Perhaps that's why people liken Son, Ba, Muoi to the Sapa of Thanh land.
Life in the Son, Ba, Muoi villages atop the mountain is tranquil to the point of wonder. The small stilt houses are nestled behind cornfields and terraced rice paddies. The straight concrete road runs through the villages amidst the lush green scenery of the forests. From here, travelers can easily venture to Tan Lac, Hoa Binh land.
After a day at Son Ba Muoi, the members descended to reach the Kho Muong village. Kho Muong has become the most famous tourist destination in the Pu Luong Nature Reserve in recent years, both locally in Thanh Hoa and nationally. Most of the villagers belong to the Muong ethnic community in Thanh Son commune, Ba Thuoc district. Those who have grown tired of Mai Chau, Moc Chau often seek out Kho Muong for a fresh experience.
Both Western and local adventurers enjoy spending the night at Kho Muong to embark on treks the next day, exploring the villages, conquering Bat Cave, admiring the terraced fields, and witnessing the daily life of the locals…
The Muong people here are extremely hospitable. As soon as they spotted our group from the village gate, several residents rushed out to greet us, eager to inquire about our journey. The children always followed us, eager to see the camera, and they were thrilled to see themselves in the newly taken photos.
After a peaceful day and night experiencing life and landscapes at Kho Muong, we returned to National Highway 15C to pass through Phu Le and Quan Hoa communes, heading back to the starting point at Co Luong Junction. Thus, our journey through the western land of Thanh, spanning nearly 400km, has concluded. The majestic and pristine landscapes, the peaceful villages, and the images of the Ma River, sometimes blue, sometimes heavily red with silt… all are now deeply engraved in the minds of travelers.
By Hai Duong/Businessmen Saigon
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Reference: Travel Guide by Mytour
MytourSeptember 14, 2017
