Buzz
In Mumbai, the holy month of Ramadan, known as Ramzan in parts of South Asia, transforms a historic street beside the Minara Masjid into a bustling food market at dusk. Vendors from across the city welcome Muslim patrons with an array of barbecued dishes and sweet treats as they break their fasts on what’s known as khau galli, translating to ‘eat street.’ Everyone in the city is invited. Local photographer Hashim Badani has been capturing the essence of this annual food celebration for years, documenting the lively atmosphere for Dinogo.
As the monsoon season sweeps through Mumbai, the weather turns humid, and Badani notes, “I was drenched one way or another” during the shoot. Amidst the sweltering heat, crowds of food enthusiasts and Ramadan participants surge through the street, packed as tightly as rush hour trains. “You simply can’t visit khau galli and remain stationary,” Badani remarks. “You indulge in rich foods, but by the time you leave, you’ve sweated it all off.”
While the offerings include an abundance of meat dishes like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, the real stars are the sweets, many of which are exclusive to this festive season, according to Badani. At khau galli, visitors enjoy phirni, a delightful sweet rice pudding served in earthen pots, syrup-soaked deep-fried malpua pancakes, and mawa jalebi, spirals of sugary, deep-fried dough.
As Badani captured the lively scene, the vendors eagerly engaged with the camera, generously offering free sweets and briefly pausing to ensure the line of customers kept moving smoothly. According to Badani, many of these vendors make as much in one night at this festival as they do in the next six months combined.
The market remains vibrant until dawn, serving late-night diners, post-work crowds, and Muslims grabbing a bite before morning prayers. Throughout Ramadan, this part of the city, often overlooked, draws in a diverse group of people for the khau galli. Badani appreciates how food brings the people of Mumbai together during this special time.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
