Golden season of dried fish in the Southwest border region

Barramundi, snakehead fish, gourami, climbing perch... are filleted and marinated with salt before being arranged on bamboo trays to dry under the sun.

Golden season of dried fish in An Giang province

Every year, starting from the early days of the 6th lunar month until the next Lunar New Year, when the floodwaters turn the fields into red, and the meadows disappear under layers of silt, it's also the time when fish, in schools, migrate from the sea to the freshwater. At that time, farmers in the Southwest border region would lead their water buffalo back to the pile of dry straw to rest, then sling their nets over their shoulders to embark on a new harvest season. An Phu (An Giang) is no exception to this rule.

An Phu is an island district in An Giang province, bordering Cambodia. This is also where the source of the Mekong River enters Vietnam, forming nine branches of fertile alluvium resembling graceful dragons. It's unknown why it's called An Phu, but perhaps just one visit is enough for tourists to feel the richness and tranquility of this land surrounded by waves.

Fish in An Phu are diverse and the most abundant in the Mekong Delta. Since the fish are in surplus, they are sold fresh but can't be consumed in time, so they are dried for later sale, making this place the capital of freshwater dried fish. In addition to the usual dried fish like snakehead fish and climbing perch, there's also the export-favorite swollen catfish. However, for connoisseurs and selective buyers, mention must be made of specialty dried fish like dried barramundi, snakehead fish, gourami, climbing perch... These types are usually not sold publicly; only those who know how to buy them as gifts for those who know how to appreciate them can get them.

Every year, people from all corners come to Chau Doc for pilgrimage combined with extensive tourism, but when they arrive, they're clueless about where to spend their money. They wander around Nui Sam market and pass by Chau Doc market, where dried fish is abundantly displayed, enticing both visually and aromatically. Yet, everyone hesitates to shop because prices resemble a labyrinth and quality fluctuates like a fork in the river.

The hardship endured by the locals persists, scraping by in their daily struggles. They're accustomed to the idea that luck determines their fate each day, without considering the possibility that visitors may return and shun them for life. Authorities focus on the volume of visitors rather than assessing how much each visitor contributes financially to this trip. Consequently, the influx of people only exacerbates ferry and traffic congestion, without significantly boosting the GDP.

On the first day of the lunar new year, returning to An Giang, indulging in dried buffalo tongue, a delicacy generously offered by the deputy village chief, brings back memories after over a decade. It reveals the subtlety of local cuisine. The thinly sliced dry pieces, akin to dewy rice paper, as crisp as northern crackers, fragrant as Aunt Ba's shampoo, yet as sweet as sugarcane grilled over fire.

Suddenly, memories of yesteryears flood in, when grandma was still sprightly. Each morning, she would marinate and roll each round piece like a basket, sun-drying them twice under the scorching sun before sealing them in plastic for rainy evenings, ready to be grilled for a crunchy delight. Yearning for hometown produce, reminiscing grandma's cooking hands, longing for the day when hometown brands flourish, to gift loved ones and ease homesickness.

By Ha Quoc Anh/Ngoi Sao

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