Hang Én - Discovering the 3rd Largest Cave in the World

Camping Inside Hang Én.

Enthusiasts passionate about cave exploration will undoubtedly know about Quang Binh, known as the kingdom of caves, as one by one, numerous large caves have been discovered and gained fame worldwide. Among them, Sơn Đòong must be mentioned, a cave that has put Quang Binh on the world tourism map.

However, Sơn Đòong, not everyone's dream can come true due to budget constraints, health conditions, and often fully booked tours. If you still dream of trekking through forests, crossing streams, spending the night inside a cave, admiring the natural masterpieces of stalactites, and experiencing a part of the Sơn Đòong exploration journey, then Hang Én is the perfect choice.

Small streams create tiny mountains of rocks.

1. What is the best season to experience Hang Én?

Located deep within the limestone mountain range of Phong Nha - Ke Bang National Park and requiring an 11km trek across mountain passes and streams, Hang Én is only suitable for exploration during the dry season from around April to August each year when the water levels in the streams and underground rivers have receded. Especially during this season, you'll encounter swarms of butterflies fluttering along the stream banks, resembling a scene from paradise.

Our group, consisting of three determined girls from Huế, set out to fulfill our long-awaited dream trip right when the dry season began. It was around early April.

2. What do you need to prepare for a trip to Hang Én?

Health:

Booking in advance for the Hang Én tour:

We booked our tour through the website and paid one month in advance. Upon booking, the travel company will send all the necessary information and instructions via email.

Clothing and gear:

Camera/phone:

Accommodation:

3. A 2-day-1-night journey into the deep forest with countless new experiences

Day 1

At exactly 8 a.m., we arrived at the meeting point within the premises of the Travel Company, enjoying a cup of delicious coffee while admiring the peaceful scenery of Quang Binh countryside by the Son River.

The Son River and countryside seen from the garden of the travel company.

Around 9 a.m., the whole group was driven along the rugged road to reach the starting point of the journey, which is the forest ranger station at Kilometer 35 on the Ho Chi Minh West Road. Around 10 a.m., we officially commenced the journey by descending Ba Giang Pass, a stretch of road over 1.5 km long.

Members of the group maintained close distance from each other.

Small stream crevices dotted along the way.

Crossing a small stream crevice, we spotted the first clusters of butterflies.

The butterflies gathered in flocks along the stream.

At 12:30 p.m., the whole group took a break and had lunch. Some porters arrived at the resting spot, set up mats, and laid out the food. Lunch included bread, sausages, cheese, cucumbers, tomatoes, and chili sauce. Additionally, there were various fruits and dry cakes such as rice cakes and Oreos. The lunch was substantial enough to replenish our energy levels. The group members also took the opportunity to get to know each other and socialize more.

Outdoor lunch in the forest.

After lunch, while the guests were getting ready to continue the journey towards Ban Doong, the porters cleaned up the mats, leftover food, and trash. They not only left no litter along the way but also picked up any nylon bags or plastic bottles they saw and put them in their backpacks.

In a blink of an eye, Ban Doong appeared before us with over a dozen simple, rustic houses nestled amidst the mountains. The friendly, sincere smiles of the Bru-Van Kieu ethnic people dispelled the fatigue of the long journey behind us. After about 15 minutes of resting in the village, we had the opportunity to learn more about Ban Doong, about life relying on forest bamboo shoots, stream fish, self-cultivated vegetables, and self-sustaining livestock.

Ban Doong standing out amidst the forested mountains.

The villagers also create their own recreational activities.

Since the Hang En and Son Doong tours began operating, Ban Doong has become less isolated from visiting groups.

Farewell to the village, our group continued trekking through numerous hills and streams. Every now and then, we encountered colorful butterfly flocks that delighted everyone.

By around 3 p.m., the entrance to Hang En on the side of the mountain gradually came into view. Hang En has a total of 3 entrances: one on the side of the mountain as shown in the picture below, and two at the foot of the mountain, front and rear. The rear entrance serves as the passage to Son Doong Cave.

The mountain wall of Hang En.

Despite the fatigue, everyone's faces showed excitement. When we were about 500 meters from the cave entrance, the whole group stopped to put on helmets and make sure that the headlamps were working properly before entering the cave.

Preparing to enter the cave.

The cave entrance was obscured by tall ferns. Upon our arrival, another group was camping at the entrance. We were informed that this group was from a different tour company and they were not allowed to camp inside the cave, so they set up their tents near the cave entrance. Amidst the hazy smoke, it felt like we were traveling back in time to the prehistoric era.

The cave entrance.

Beyond the cave entrance lies an underground river. From the inside, one can easily spot the giant stalagmites that divide the nearly 100-meter-long cave entrance.

View of the cave entrance from the inside.

The group continued to traverse a high slope with rugged cliffs. Looking down from the slope, we could see the overnight camping area of the entire group. The sandy beach protruded amidst the emerald green water.

The camping site.

The tents were set up about 2m apart, facing the lake in front. The afternoon light from the cave entrance on the cliff allowed us to easily see the myriad of stacked rock formations. The cave ceiling is nearly 100m high in some places, even reaching 170m, spacious with many stalactites and rock crevices where swallows nest. The swallows chirped melodiously echoing off the walls, resembling a symphony.

Hang Én was formerly inhabited by the Arem people who practiced the tradition of eating swiftlets. The Arem people have since been relocated to other areas for settlement, but they still return to the cave every fifteenth day of the fifth lunar month to hold the Swallow Eating Festival.

We caught a pair of swallows burrowed in the sand and released them later.

By the time we received our tents and stored our luggage, it was around 4 p.m. Wearing swimsuits, we immersed ourselves in the cool water, indulging in the feeling of being massaged by the small fish and fine sand after a long day of challenges.

Fish massage.

As the daylight faded, a few lanterns were lit from the battery, signaling dinner time amidst flickering flames and the savory aroma of grilled meat. The hearty dinner consisted of rice, soup, vegetables, meat, and specially prepared dipping sauce made by the local chef with a variety of wild herbs. The group gathered together, laughter and conversation filling the night.

Dinner in the cave.

A night spent in Hang Én for me was an unforgettable experience. On the sandy beach, amidst the silent night, amidst the deep forest of the cave, I lay here with indescribable emotions, experiencing every second, every minute of nature's breath, listening to the echoes of the mountains, feeling as if my hand was touching the cool rock surface inside the cave, and sinking deep into a peaceful sleep.

Day 2

The chirping of birds woke us up, everyone feeling refreshed and full of energy. Before breakfast, the guide led the group to climb a few cliffs to a higher point where we could see the panoramic view of Hang Én in the morning light, leaving below the tiny tents like little mushrooms.

Welcoming the new day's rays of light.

The whole group didn't forget to capture the moment together in a photo on the steep rock wall. From here, everyone freely posed for photos.

Capture the moment.

Then we returned to the campsite, having breakfast with some fruits, crepes, and crispy fried spring rolls.

Breakfast time.

At 8 o'clock, the whole group geared up with helmets and headlamps ready to explore the cave in the rear direction. Inside the cave, there are numerous stalactites, unique rock formations that have been forming for hundreds of years. As we accompanied the group, the guide introduced the formation and age of these important stalactites measured by geologists.

The whole group attentively listened to the informative guidance.

Stalactites aged over a hundred years.

The entire group cautiously crossed the underground river branches inside the cave, where the water sometimes rose above knee level. Many dry trees were still embedded in the soil, swept into the cave by floodwaters during the rainy season.

Crossing the underground river inside the cave.

The rear entrance of the cave.

Water dripping from the cave ceiling erodes the sand, forming small sand columns with a stone piece on top, a feature unique to the area around the rear entrance of the cave. During the rainy season, these sand columns are washed away by water and then reformed during the dry season.

The extent of Hang Én ends here. Tourists on the Sơn Đòong tour will cross this stream to venture deeper into the forest.

Instructions for guests to explore freely, take photos, and then the whole group returns to the campsite for a short rest, packs up their belongings, and heads back.

The return journey follows the same route but is more challenging. Unlike the downhill start of the journey, this stretch of over 1.5 km involves climbing up Ba Giàng slope, leaving everyone exhausted and sweating profusely. With intermittent breaks and encouragement from each other, we push through the climb, finally arriving back at the starting point (around 3 p.m.) where cold beer, soft drinks, and chilled spring water await to welcome us back as heroes. Everyone applauds and congratulates each other with bright eyes and radiant smiles. The van takes us back to the travel agency office around 5 p.m., where we bid farewell to each other.

4. What awaits after the Hang Én trip?

So many new things, so many experiences, valuable lessons learned after this 2-day-1-night journey. They include:

Overcoming challenges, conquering oneself:

Friendship, team spirit:

New knowledge, understanding:

Unique experiences, stunning images:

Author: Lily Smith
* This article is part of the Mytour Golocal program

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