Hanoi's Pho Establishments - Culinary Charm of the Capital

When in Hanoi, pho is a culinary essential. Hanoi's pho always finds its place in the must-try list of every visitor.

Amidst a myriad of pho places, from traditional ones to modern twists, from old town pho to franchised ones, distant diners might be overwhelmed by the extensive list resembling a 'Dong Xuan Market' of pho eateries. Today, let's explore some charmingly themed pho spots to make the choice easier.

Using the term 'charming' perhaps only partially captures the flavor, as the focus here is on the serving style. These pho spots not only deliver in taste but also in a pleasant dining experience – from seating arrangements to utensil placement, service speed, and a hospitable yet appropriate distance for patrons to savor their meals in their preferred way. When in Hanoi, give these pho places a try to see if they live up to the charm.

Ho Loi Beef Pho

Crowded by 7:00 AM

Being one of the youngest pho places on the list of delicious pho spots, Ho Loi Beef Pho is not located in the heart of Hanoi but in Phu Thuong ward, Tay Ho district. Originating from the peach orchards of Hanoi locals, the ambiance alone feels romantic, and the dining experience is even more charming.

While it may look like any other rustic pho joint, the aroma of the broth and the fragrance of well-cooked beef can be sensed from afar. To avoid the crowd, it's recommended to visit before 8:00 AM or after 10:00 AM.

The hot dough sticks are a must-try at Ho Loi. These are freshly made, hand-kneaded, and deep-fried on the spot by family members. The anticipation in the queue for these delectable treats is palpable. Everyone's eyes are fixed on the elder gentleman, tying his hair in a bun, as he pulls out a fresh batch of golden-brown, fragrant dough sticks. The scent is irresistible, and from a distance, you can sometimes see the sizzling hot oil on the crispy exterior.

Bowl of tender beef pho with plenty of spring onions

The main star here is, without a doubt, the pho. The beef stew with tender tendons is a definite must-try. The corn-fed beef is soft, sweet, and cut into substantial slices. Neither too thick nor too thin, the noodles are quickly immersed in the boiling, bubbling broth and then drizzled with a layer of clear broth. By the time it reaches your hands, just swiftly dip your chopsticks, and it's ready to be savored.

Ly Beo's Beef Pho

While Bác Lý's place offers both beef and chicken pho along with mixed noodles, let's skip the chicken and focus on their outstanding wine-infused beef pho. Operating exclusively in the evening, Ly Beo's Beef Pho stands out for its broth and the way they prepare the beef.

The kitchen, though small, efficiently serves dishes swiftly.

Bác Lý Béo, the main character and the owner, manages the kitchen with the help of his sister and daughter. The table will be filled with an ample amount of beef, and when it's nearly finished, they'll call the meat cutter, often Mr. Lý himself. The broth is clear, subtly sweet, and notably piping hot. If you're up for experiencing a street-side pho place that's clean, serving pho in light green ceramic bowls placed on trays, don't miss out on Ly Beo's Beef Pho. Give it a try because it's incredibly intriguing.

Bowl of wine-infused beef pho with tendon and tripe

Hang Dong Beef Pho

Pho Cu Chieu's Sign, easily missed from a distance

Hang Dong Beef Pho, also known as Cu Chieu's Pho, might have a small storefront, but it's exceptionally clean inside. There's a fridge opening and closing, used for storing the meat. When it's hot, the meat is cut and promptly stored in the fridge. For a delightful pho experience, it's advisable to go early as both Hanoi locals, whether it's hot or cold, have the habit of enjoying pho. So, try to make it early for a uniquely enjoyable experience.

The brisket and tendon here are impressively generous in size, with flavorful tender beef. The broth is a deep amber color, subtly glistening with a touch of fat. The standout feature at Cu Chieu's Pho is undoubtedly the broth, perfectly balanced to complement the pho noodles or additional meat, offering a delicious harmony of flavors.

Crispy brisket bowl with substantial slices of beef

After enjoying pho, right across the street, there's a cafe where you can leisurely sit and observe the bustling streets. Having coffee in the morning and having pho early is a tradition that many generations in Hanoi still uphold. Give it a try once to discover where the allure lies.

Pho Cuong

I often stop by Pho Cuong on my way to the airport, as it's conveniently located near Nguyen Khoai Street on the way to Nghi Tam. The pho bowls here are always generously large, even if you order a small bowl, it's still quite substantial. Plus, they serve a larger portion of pho noodles compared to other places. One of Pho Cuong's advantages is that they have air conditioning, so even in the summer, you don't have to worry about eating pho in a 'sweat-soaked-like-rice-paddy-rain' style.

The sign seen from the opposite side of the sidewalk

What I love most about Pho Cuong is the speed of service. Once you place your order, you barely have time to settle into your seat before a steaming bowl of pho appears. The sautéed onions here are consistently among the best, perfectly cooked—soft, not pungent, and with sweet, crisp flavors (I'm describing this for the onion lovers; if you're not a fan, feel free to skip).

A bowl of rare beef and brisket pho with sweet and crunchy sautéed onions

I often invite my foreign friends to Pho Cuong. It's convenient either on the way from the airport or en route to the airport. They serve large portions, and the service is practically all day long.

If I were to sum up Pho Cuong in a few words, it would be: convenient and delicious.

Even with just these four pho places, each season brings a slightly different taste. When you go with friends, it feels different; in the morning, there's a special charm, and in the evening, it satisfies your evening cravings. Next time you're in Hanoi, give it a try. Wishing you lovely days in Hanoi!

Author: Tô Phan Lan Phương
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