Buzz
Before Hong Kong came under British rule, the majority of people here were primarily fishermen. In its early days, Hong Kong served as a port for Asian or European sailors to rest before each long journey.
During that time, salted fish was a common food source, providing sailors on voyages with essential protein and serving as a staple for the Chinese population. The sight of dried fish hanging by the roadside, tied with red ribbons, was one of the original products of Hong Kong and the Pearl River Delta region. To survive on long voyages, sailors could not do without these dried fish.
This long-standing industry still exists today, especially in the dried goods district of Sai Ying Pun, where visitors can smell the scent of the past.
Coffee
The British began colonial rule in Hong Kong in 1841. From the 1950s, significant changes occurred in Hong Kong. After World War II, Chinese people flocked to Hong Kong to escape communist occupation and the famine of the 1950s and early 1960s. As Hong Kong recovered from the war, people shifted to manufacturing, ushering in a period of productivity and development for the territory.
With globalization, the population of Hong Kong rapidly increased, and numerous factories sprang up, along with a plethora of industrially produced foods like white bread, peanut butter, condensed milk, instant noodles... And at that time, a unique dining concept emerged: the Cha chaan teng cafes.
One of the most significant changes we've seen is the evolution of Hong Kong's Cha chaan teng cafes. While they've been around since the 1920s, Cha chaan teng really flourished post-war. The pressures of factory production influenced eating habits, so quick meals for workers during short lunch breaks became the norm,” McLane explained. Back then, you could easily find Cha chaan teng tucked in street corners, offering a simple meal of white bread, some slices of pork, and milk tea. And there you have a light meal.
Today, the menu has expanded to include a variety of dishes such as egg tarts, baked goods, and yuanyang milk tea - a blend of thick black tea with coffee. “Sitting in a Cha chaan teng, enjoying a baked peanut butter bun and condensed milk, a cup of milk tea, you're savoring 75 years of Hong Kong's history,”
The Soy Sauce Western Restaurants
Soy Sauce Western eateries may not be the first recommendation for tourists visiting Hong Kong, but they are an integral part of this land's history. Like the upscale version of Cha chaan teng, the fusion dining style of Soy Sauce Western started booming in the 1950s and 1960s.
McLane elaborated: “The elites in Hong Kong traveled across Europe, they came back to Hong Kong wanting to taste things that reminded them of their travels, such as steak…”. So, Cantonese chefs at international hotels like Mandarin Oriental and The Peninsula took what they knew about Western cuisine and opened Soy Sauce Western restaurants with waiters in tuxedos.
For Westerners, it's like being in the 1950s as they're still served with steak, potatoes, salads, soufflé omelets, things you'd never find on the menu anymore. For those in Hong Kong, it's an expression of their desire to reach out to the world.
Nowadays, Soy Sauce Western restaurants are very rare, so you should give them a try if you happen to come across one.
Cantonese Cuisine 2.0
When we talk about Hong Kong cuisine, it would be remiss not to mention the flavors of modern Cantonese cuisine. In the past 5 years, Cantonese cuisine has never been more exciting. McLane explains: “You'll see younger generations of chefs. They're boldly changing dishes, thinking positively about preparation and ingredients, constantly updating with new things, but not fusion food.”
Leading the trend of innovation, ready to create their own restaurants, is Lau Kin Wai, a culinary expert and owner of the Michelin-starred Kin’s Kitchen Cantonese-style restaurant. The next generation of creative chefs like Lau Chun, Kin Wai's son, are making significant changes, with special small menus and reviving old dishes that have disappeared for a while. Modern history is also reflected in new dishes.
By Tien Quang/Ngôi sao
***
Reference: Travel Guide by Mytour
MytourSeptember 1, 2017
