If you're a fan of sashimi, don't miss out on Miyagi.

It's the place where you can indulge in fresh oysters and chilled drinks while your stomach remains peacefully content. It's a rarity in Japan to find whale sashimi, and also where you can experience a sashimi feast arranged on the freshly cleaned skeleton of a tuna... These rich flavors of the sea have led me to Miyagi, a remote prefecture in northeastern Japan, just under an hour's flight from Tokyo.

For sashimi enthusiasts, a trip to Japan isn't complete without visiting Miyagi.

For the Japanese, Miyagi is a renowned destination for its inclusion in the Nippon Sankei (Japan's Three Scenic Views), particularly Matsushima Bay with over 200 islands scattered across 40 square kilometers. However, admiring Miyagi's scenery is just an excuse, because what locals seek here is culinary satisfaction.

Thanks to its location amidst warm and cold ocean currents, Miyagi's fishing grounds are considered abundant both in quantity and quality. Signature delicacies include oysters, scallops, seaweed, tuna, salmon, sea urchin, mackerel, sea cucumber, lobster... all these seafood delights, even at the mere mention, tantalize the taste buds, igniting a desire to savor them.

To explore Miyagi's seafood scene, the first point of interest that piqued my curiosity was the fish market right at Ishinomaki port, now the world's largest fish market. This title was previously held by Tsukiji, a longstanding fish market in Tokyo, but after the devastating tsunami struck Miyagi in 2011, crippling the region's renowned seafood industry, factories closed down, ports lay in ruins, aquaculture suffered immense losses. The reconstruction efforts swiftly took place, and Ishinomaki fish market emerged once again, even more massive than before, stretching 880 meters in length, just a few steps away from the port bridge.

Every morning, all the seafood caught in Miyagi gathers at the fish market. Here, the fish are meticulously sorted and displayed in various crates, showcasing the day's catch with a myriad of fish species. Some rare varieties quickly change hands, while others spark bidding wars. The clientele of Ishinomaki fish market includes seafood businesses and renowned restaurants in Sendai, the capital of Miyagi, who come daily to select the finest ingredients for their signature dishes.

Apart from the naturally caught seafood, Miyagi boasts another famous specialty from aquaculture, which is oysters. It's also the first region in Japan to achieve ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council) international standards for oyster farming, ensuring responsible aquaculture practices without adverse effects on the environment, ecology, communities, and strict compliance with processing and labor regulations. Hence, during my first meal in Miyagi, my local friend treated me to a lavish oyster feast at Sanriku Kakigoya for 2,980 yen (approximately 600,000 VND), while a similar oyster in Tsukiji fish market - Tokyo is priced at 800 yen (about 160,000 VND).

Oysters are prepared simply, either served raw or steamed for 15 minutes. When the oysters just slightly open, dip them in Ponzu sauce and relish the succulent, plump flesh, bursting with flavors, combining creamy sweetness with salty, spicy, savory, and tangy notes of Ponzu. Despite indulging in a satisfying oyster feast and sipping cold water, there's still a sense of serene contentment, proving the saying: 'Eating Japanese food without stomach ache is indeed a rare occurrence.'

Exploring Miyagi, encounters with seafood are ubiquitous, ranging from fresh to prepared, and each delicious meal is a fascinating seafood experience. Most memorable is the raw fish sashimi at Tsuda Sengyoten, right in the heart of Sendai. The small restaurant, accommodating about 20 people, offers a menu that varies daily based on the ingredients chosen by the owner from Ishinomaki fish market in the early morning. What's intriguing here is if a popular dish is limited and multiple customers desire it, the restaurant immediately organizes an auction, with the highest bidder getting the privilege of having it prepared and served.

The preparation of sashimi at Tsuda Sengyoten is also unique. In addition to the traditional Japanese-style slices, the sashimi here includes chunks of tuna bone attached with meat, and diners use a small spoon to scrape off as much meat as they desire. Luckily, visiting the shop early in the day, before it's crowded with other diners... vying for food, I managed to secure nearly a third of a tuna tail bone without going through any intense bidding wars. The assorted sashimi platter presented before me, showcasing a variety of seafood delights, is beautiful, exotic, delicious, and before I even take a bite, all senses and reflexes yield to the craving of the taste buds. I leisurely contemplate the pure essence of the ocean's bounty, brimming with allure and impressions that I've never experienced in any other fishing grounds except Miyagi.

By Nguyen Dinh/ Saigon Entrepreneur

***

Reference: Travel guide by Mytour