During Ramadan in Mumbai, a historic street near the Minara Masjid transforms into a vibrant food hub at sunset. The 'khau galli,' or 'eat street,' comes alive as food vendors line the road, offering barbecues and sweets to Muslims breaking their fast. The festivities are open to all, and local photographer Hashim Badani, who has attended the festival for years, captured this lively scene for Dinogo.
As Mumbai enters monsoon season, the humidity rises, and the heat is almost unbearable. Photographer Hashim Badani, who captured the chaotic scene at the festival, mentions how he was drenched in sweat, noting that it’s a given when navigating the dense, constantly moving crowds at the khau galli. The street food lovers and Ramadan observers crowd the area as tightly as a train during rush hour, making it impossible to stand still. 'You sweat it out while indulging in all that rich food,' Badani laughs.
Khau galli offers an abundance of savory treats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, but the real highlights are the sweets, many of which are exclusive to Ramadan festivals. Among the favorites are 'phirni,' a sweet rice pudding served in traditional clay pots, deep-fried 'malpua' pancakes dipped in syrup, and 'mawa jalebi,' crispy swirls of sugary, deep-fried dough.
While Badani captured the vibrant atmosphere, the vendors were generous, offering free sweets and pausing just long enough for a quick photo before moving customers along. Many of the street vendors make more money during this nightly festival than they typically would over the next six months, according to Badani.
The market remains open until dawn, feeding late-night workers, night owls, and Muslims grabbing a bite before their early morning prayers. During Ramadan, the khau galli becomes a gathering spot for a diverse crowd, many of whom wouldn't usually visit this area. Badani finds it heartening to witness how food brings the people of Mumbai together during this special time.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
