Ramadan has arrived in Mumbai. During this holy month of fasting, known as Ramzan in South Asia, a historic street beside Minara Masjid springs to life each evening for a bustling food festival. Vendors from across the city welcome practicing Muslims with barbecues and sweets as they break their fast on what’s affectionately called khau galli, meaning 'eat street.' Everyone is invited. Local photographer Hashim Badani, who has been attending this festival for years, captured the lively atmosphere for Dinogo.
The monsoon season is upon Mumbai, bringing humidity when it's not raining. “I was drenched one way or the other,” Badani shares about his experience. The heat is undeniable as throngs of street food lovers and fasting observers navigate the crowded lanes, reminiscent of rush hour on a packed train. “You can't really go to khau galli and just stand still,” Badani observes. “You indulge in rich foods, but you sweat it all out before you leave.”
While there’s no shortage of savory dishes like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, the sweets, many available only during this festive season, are the true highlights, according to Badani. At khau galli, guests indulge in phirni—a sweet rice pudding in clay pots—crispy malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, delightful spirals of sweet, deep-fried dough.
As Badani captured the vibrant scene, vendors eagerly engaged with his camera, treating him to free sweets and ensuring the line of hungry customers kept flowing. Badani notes that many of these street vendors earn as much in this one evening as they would over the next six months.
The market remains lively until dawn, catering to late-night diners, night owls, and Muslims grabbing a meal before the morning prayers. During Ramadan, this area attracts visitors who usually wouldn’t come, and Badani appreciates seeing the people of Mumbai unite over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
