Buzz
In Mumbai, during the holy month of Ramadan, a historic street near Minara Masjid transforms into a lively food hub every evening. Known as khau galli, or 'eat street,' this is where Muslim locals break their fasts with a wide array of barbecued dishes and sweets. The festival is open to everyone, with photographer Hashim Badani capturing the vibrant scene for Dinogo, a tradition he's been documenting for years.
The monsoon season has arrived in Mumbai, bringing with it humidity and occasional rain. ‘I was drenched one way or another,’ recalls Badani. The street, packed with enthusiastic food lovers and fasting locals, is as crowded as a rush-hour train, and sweat flows freely. ‘There’s no standing still in khau galli,’ says Badani. ‘You eat all the rich food, but you sweat it off by the time you leave.’
The street offers plenty of meat, from chicken tikka to goat brain masala. But it’s the sweets that steal the show, especially those only available during Ramadan. Among the favorites are phirni, a sweet rice pudding served in earthen pots, syrup-soaked malpua pancakes, and crispy mawa jalebi, swirls of sugary fried dough.
As Badani captured the vibrant atmosphere, vendors eagerly welcomed the camera, offering complimentary sweets and pausing just long enough to keep the crowds moving. Many vendors make as much during these nightly Ramadan festivals as they would over the next six months, says Badani.
The market stays open all night long, only closing at sunrise after street-food vendors have served late-night diners, those grabbing a quick bite before dawn prayers, and the usual after-hours crowd. During Ramadan, people flock to this part of the city that they wouldn’t normally visit for the khau galli, and it’s heartening to see Mumbai’s diverse community come together over food, says Badani.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
