During Ramadan in Mumbai, a historic street near the Minara Masjid transforms into a vibrant food hub at sunset. This nightly festival draws in Muslims observing their fasts, offering a wide variety of grilled meats and sweets along the khau galli, a popular food lane meaning 'eat street.' The festival welcomes all, with local photographer Hashim Badani capturing the lively scene for Dinogo.
As Mumbai enters monsoon season, the weather is a mix of rain and humidity. Photographer Hashim Badani describes the shoot as a sweaty experience, with crowds filling the street like rush-hour commuters. The heat is inevitable in the bustling khau galli, where even indulging in rich street food doesn't keep you from sweating. 'There’s no way to stand still in khau galli,' Badani laughs.
While khau galli is known for its variety of meats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, it’s the seasonal sweets that steal the show, according to Badani. Festival-goers indulge in phirni, a creamy rice pudding served in traditional clay pots, syrup-drenched malpua pancakes, and crispy, sweet mawa jalebi spirals.
As Badani captured the bustling atmosphere, vendors were more than happy to pose for the camera, offering free sweets and quickly resuming their work to keep the food line moving. Many of these street vendors make more in one night during the festival than they do over the course of the next six months, Badani notes.
The market stays alive until sunrise, serving late-night Mytours, those finishing work, and Muslims grabbing a meal before morning prayers. During Ramadan, people from all walks of life visit this part of the city for the khau galli experience, and Badani finds it heartwarming to witness the unity of Mumbai's people gathered together through food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
