Buzz
In Mumbai, the holy month of Ramadan, known as Ramzan in some South Asian regions, transforms a historic street near Minara Masjid into a bustling food festival at sundown. As the sun sets, vendors from across the city welcome practicing Muslims with barbecue and sweets to break their fasts on the lively street, affectionately called khau galli, meaning 'eat street.' Everyone is invited to join. Local photographer Hashim Badani, a long-time visitor of this annual celebration, captured the vibrant atmosphere for Dinogo.
The monsoon season has arrived in Mumbai, bringing humidity along with intermittent rain. 'I ended up drenched one way or another,' Badani shares about his experience. As crowds of street food enthusiasts and fasting observers flow through the busy lane, the atmosphere is as packed as a rush-hour train. 'You can't visit khau galli without being on the move,' Badani remarks. 'You indulge in rich food, but you sweat it all out by the time you leave the street.'
The offerings are abundant, featuring dishes like chicken tikka and goat brain masala. However, the sweets—some only available during this festive time—are the true stars, according to Badani. At khau galli, food lovers enjoy phirni, a sweet rice pudding served in clay pots, deep-fried malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, spirals of sweet, deep-fried dough.
As Badani captured the lively scene, vendors eagerly posed for the camera, offering complimentary sweets and pausing just long enough to keep the line of eager customers flowing. Many of these hawkers earn more during this nightly festival than they typically would over the next six months, Badani notes.
The market remains alive until dawn, as street-food vendors serve late-night diners, night owls, and Muslims seeking a meal before morning prayers. During Ramadan, this area of the city attracts many who usually wouldn’t venture here for khau galli, and it’s heartwarming for Badani to witness Mumbai’s residents uniting over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
