Buzz
In Mumbai, Ramadan transforms the streets. As the sun sets during this holy month of fasting, a historic road near the Minara Masjid bursts into life with a nightly food market. Vendors from across the city serve barbecue and sweets to those breaking their fast on what becomes the bustling khau galli, or ‘eat street.’ Everyone is invited to join. Local photographer Hashim Badani, a longtime visitor of this annual festival, captured the vibrant atmosphere for Dinogo.
With the arrival of the monsoon in Mumbai, the air is thick with humidity on dry days. “I was drenched either way,” Badani remarks about the experience. The crowds of street food lovers and Ramadan participants create a dynamic scene, moving through the street like a packed train during peak hours. “You can’t visit khau galli without being in constant motion,” Badani notes. “You indulge in rich foods, but you sweat it all off by the time you leave.”
There’s an abundance of meat dishes, like chicken tikka and goat brain masala. However, the desserts, many of which are exclusive to this festive season, truly steal the show, according to Badani. At khau galli, patrons enjoy phirni, a sweet rice pudding served in traditional clay pots, deep-fried malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, spiral-shaped, sweet, deep-fried dough.
As Badani snapped photos, the vendors eagerly engaged with the camera, generously offering complimentary sweets and briefly pausing to ensure the line of eager customers kept moving smoothly. According to Badani, many of these street vendors earn as much during this evening festival as they typically do over the next half year.
The market stays alive until dawn, serving late-night diners, after-work crowds, and Muslims grabbing a bite before morning prayers. During Ramadan, people flock to this part of the city that they might usually overlook for the khau galli, and Badani appreciates seeing Mumbai’s diverse community unite over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
