
The road leading back to Thon Vi.
Perhaps many young people, like myself, have never been to Thon Vi, but it's not unfamiliar to hear the name of this hometown, as it's closely associated with the childhood books of every Vietnamese student. Only upon visiting do you truly see Vi Da (or newly named Con Hen) quietly nestled beside the Huong River in Huong Luu commune, Vi Da ward, less than 10 minutes by motorbike from the center of Hue city. Here in Vi Da, the Huong River still flows, but the scenery has changed significantly from the 'sunlight on areca palms' and the 'bamboo leaves shading the rice fields' in Han Mac Tu's poetry.
The path to Thon Vi Da
Vi Da is surrounded by the Huong River, and along Nguyen Sinh Cung Street, you'll encounter an ancient iron bridge named Phu Luu Bridge. Crossing this bridge leads you to Thon Vi. Replacing 'The new sun on the areca palms' and 'Bamboo leaves shading the rice fields' are now long stretches of concrete roads at the end of the neighborhood, with neatly tiled houses.

The iron bridge spanning the Perfume River leading to Con Hen is known as Phu Luu Bridge or Con Bridge.
Visiting Thon Vi Da on an early autumn afternoon, we walked along the main road straight from Phu Luu Bridge to the end of the village. Crossing the bridge, taking our first steps into Thon Vi, we felt a different sense of time compared to the hustle and bustle of the outside city. There's no noise, no bustling crowds, only a frame of time painted with tranquility.

A boat catching clams by the locals on the Huong River.
Specialty of Thon Vi Da: Clams.
If the name 'Vi Da' is associated with the soul of the people of Thon Vi, then Con Hen is a new name with many modern characteristics. Con Hen is called so because there are many clams here that are incredibly delicious. This place is considered a 'giant playground' specializing in catching and processing specialties from clams such as clam rice, clam vermicelli, stir-fried clams...

As we enjoyed clam vermicelli, we listened to the vendor recount stories about Thon Vi.
Just as we stepped into the beginning of the village, we immediately spotted a stall selling authentic Vi Da-style clam vermicelli. Each serving here costs only 10,000 VND, but it's delicious and visually appealing. In addition to the characteristic ingredient of clams, this vermicelli dish also includes dried pork floss, roasted peanuts, a little papaya salad, dried vermicelli... all combining to create a special dish that leaves a lasting impression on first-time tasters like us. We heard that the vendor is none other than Mrs. Kim Cuc - 'the sweetheart of Thon Vi' of Han Mac Tu, right nearby!

Huong River clam vermicelli - Specialty of the ancient capital Hue.
Clams are not only a specialty of Vi Da but also carry the unique charm of the cuisine of the ancient capital. A trip to Hue would not be complete without savoring this delicate dish.
Roadside stall in the village
People in Hue drink a lot of coffee, so there are many different coffee shops in Hue. Thon Vi is no exception. There are many stalls along the road into Thon Vi, and we stopped at a small roadside stall near Vida Market to take a break.

We sat enjoying our drinks and watching the peaceful flow of people passing by.

Fishermen resting after a clam-catching session.

The shop owner with eclectic items.
Thon Vi today
Despite passing through many years and accompanying various historical periods, Vi Da still maintains a very distinctive appearance. Along the village road are small houses imbued with rustic beauty. Memories of childhood and a peaceful sky once again stir up feelings of nostalgia and dreaminess in me. That peaceful sky has now been replaced by high-rise buildings and urban life. Therefore, when seeing the simple scenery again, many people like me are overwhelmed with intense longing mixed with a melancholic sadness.

An older brother caring for his fighting cock after a match.

A shop in the village.

Roadside eatery.
The majestic scenery might seem dull to some, but the simple scenes in rural villages like Vi Da make me want to embrace them forever. Its simplicity makes it light, and just by embracing it, my heart feels lighter too!
Con Hen - A tranquil little hamlet
Not many tourists choose Con Hen as a tourist destination when they set foot in Hue, so this place still retains its simplicity and inherent charm. Continuing along the winding road, we immerse ourselves in the afternoon life of the locals here. Beyond the bamboo clusters, the elderly women are chatting and laughing, recounting new stories left from yesterday, about the small joys of the day. Seeing me busy taking photos, the women even tease us, making us feel incredibly close and intimate.

A mobile stall selling mixed clam vermicelli.
Right next to where I stopped, there are several mobile stalls selling mixed clam vermicelli and some snacks for children. As we walk further towards the end of the village, alongside a small embankment, we immerse ourselves in the beautiful, nostalgic scenes: Bamboo hedges, clusters of flowers, the winding road... each scene evokes a sense of tranquility.

A vibrant array of flowers under the afternoon sun.

Green bamboo hedges alongside the winding village road.

The slow pace of life in the countryside.
As the last rays of the evening sun close, it's time for us to move back to the city. Crossing that iron bridge will lead to a different world, no longer the simple and peaceful charm, no longer the slow, steady rhythm. Only lingering here is a nostalgic longing and a promise to return one day to once again immerse ourselves in moments of serene tranquility. If you ever visit Hue, don't miss capturing slow-motion footage of Thon Vi Da to bring back for yourself a sky of emotions like our journey, alright!
Author: Le Thuy Hoa
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