Buzz
For those new to the wonders of Hà Giang, few may know of a town in the high mountains of the Northeast, which seems to have sprung from the pages of a fairy tale. A place so tranquil and serene, it captivates the soul of travelers like myself, leaving us enchanted and reluctant to depart – that is Pho Bang.
Pho Bang, serene even on rainy days...
Located in the district of Dong Van, Pho Bang is just about 4 km off the road from Hà Giang City to the Dong Van Karst Plateau. Based on my experience exploring Hà Giang, few are aware of its existence or have ever stopped by this quaint little town.
I arrived at Pho Bang on a torrential rainy day, just one day before the late-June flash floods hit Ha Giang. Along the road to Pho Bang town, there were some landslide spots, almost prompting me to give up. However, relying on my experience with Ha Giang's adventurous journeys, I pressed forward. And as the small adobe houses nestled closely together began to appear, I ceased to dwell on the harsh weather, simply following the narrow road hugging the mountainside.
The beanstalks hanging in front of the alleys were drenched from the pouring rain.
The yin and yang tiled roofs of Pho Bang were engulfed in rain.
The houses crafted from earth exuded an antique hue, a blend of reddish-brown, ivory, fading with the years. Some walls adorned with moss, featuring wooden eaves before the alleys, weathered wooden doors, and Chinese couplets hanging on both sides. For seasoned Ha Giang travelers, this place may seem melancholic and desolate, yet its true beauty is unlike any other.
Houses aged over a century, weathered wooden doors adorned with faded Chinese couplets, yin and yang tiled roofs.
Located in the Vietnam-China border area, it's common to see Chinese characters adorning the fronts of houses like this.
Walking along these houses, it feels like touching the void of silence, with some ethnic women sitting in front of the alleys, gazing at the sky and earth, some old men leisurely sipping tea, or children chasing after the rain.
Three generations stroll in the rain.
Standing at around 1 meter tall, my friend wore a raincoat that reached 1.5 meters, laughing incessantly as we walked.
Despite the heavy rain, survival was still paramount.
Occasionally glimpsing at the small houses with a faint glow of electric lights, I also spotted young women weaving fabric by the door frames, sewing vibrant indigenous fabrics.
The petite town surrounded by mountainous clouds.
Despite my considerable experience exploring Ha Giang, Pho Bang still manages to move me and surprise me. Everything blends harmoniously, creating an evening symphony in this gentle setting.
A serene landscape.
In front of Pho Bang's courtyard.
Alongside its ancient charm, Pho Bang is also transitioning to a more modern lifestyle. Amidst the adobe houses with red-tiled roofs, there are also some multi-story buildings equipped with modern amenities. However, because it doesn't aim for tourism commercialization, based on my Ha Giang exploration experience, you won't find guesthouses or homestays as beautiful as elsewhere.
Ancient houses with wooden eaves in front.
Ancient houses with wooden eaves in front.
An ethnic woman carrying a child shelters from the rain.
I chose to stay at Hieu Thanh guesthouse, one of the only two lodging options in this town. It was my first time spending the night in such a remote small town, and that night it poured heavily, with the temperature dropping to 10 degrees Celsius by dawn. But as soon as I woke up in the morning, opened the balcony door, a vast expanse of mountains and sky unfolded before my eyes, everything serene and incredibly beautiful.
The town was dark that night.
It felt like the World Cup in this small town. Cozy vibes!
The host family was very friendly and welcoming, and there's also a breakfast and lunch eatery right next door, which is very convenient. Oh, one small note, there aren't many restaurants around here. The row of houses mostly has a few convenience stores, selling basic necessities just beyond the window frames.
An ethnic woman carrying a child shelters from the rain.
A rare cat in the town.
Taking advantage of rainy days to fix the old bike.
During rainy days, you won't find any rice eateries around, but luckily the host family of the guesthouse provides makeshift indoor meals. Eating and chatting with everyone, it feels cozy just like home.
Homemade rice rolls in the morning by the host. Only 10,000 dong per portion.
Eating and watching the World Cup with the aunts and uncles.
At noon that day, I wandered around looking for a restaurant but found none. The host made some steamed buns for us to temporarily alleviate hunger.
To me, Pho Bang is Ha Giang, where I feel most peaceful. No matter how many more Ha Giang adventures I have, none can compare to Pho Bang. The feeling of rain gently falling, riding along the road, hearing children's laughter, and feeling the gentle sounds of nature, I can never express it in words.
This town has carved out a wide space in my heart.
Author: Hoang Nguyen Linh Ha
* Participating article in Mytour Golocal program
Mytour Golocal is a blogging program introducing beautiful destinations across Vietnam. This is a great opportunity to promote local tourism to everyone. For each qualified article, you will receive 800,000 VND and a chance to become a Contributor with Mytour. For detailed information about the program, visit: https://www.Mytour/en-vn/golocal
