Buzz
Autumn in Hanoi is stunning, but what about experiencing Hanoi in autumn from 3 a.m. until the break of dawn? This question never crossed my mind until the night before my last day in Hanoi. A night spent tossing and turning in a less-than-comfortable dorm bed, hoping for a good night's sleep to enjoy my final day. But perhaps Hanoi insists I savor the last day from before sunrise.
When fate threatens to ruin a trip, it's essential to find ways to turn it into something even more wonderful, more unique!
3 a.m. – the sleeping streets may not necessarily be asleep.
I had hoped for a quieter ancient town at this 'sacred' hour. But under the yellow lights, the streets remained inexplicably crowded. The narrow lanes were sparsely populated, but the main streets were bustling with constant activity.
Stepping out of the dorm on Hang Duong Street, I headed towards Dong Xuan Market, deliberately choosing to explore the smaller streets with fewer eateries first. Because I knew the night food stalls would always be bustling. Today, I want to admire the sparsely populated ancient streets.
Except for a few motorbikes zooming past, most were elderly women wearing conical hats, pedaling bicycles, carrying some light but indistinct cargo behind their saddles.
Then there was a couple strolling with their young child casually through the streets, as if compensating for the daytime traffic jams. The child must wonder what it's like to stroll through the streets at 3 a.m. instead of being in bed like other families. I found it intriguing too.
The convenience store sees a constant stream of people coming and going, with the staff working efficiently. The light from the prominent sign illuminates a corner of the street.
Some households are disposing of garbage at this hour. I suspect it's because they're preparing for a bustling store opening tomorrow morning. Upon closer observation, I realized I had wandered to the side of Dong Xuan Market without even noticing.
4 a.m. – the market bustling with unloading and transporting goods.
Near the market, the activity is even livelier. It's understandable, as the market starts buzzing around 5-6 a.m., so preparations are well underway by now.
The thunderous roar of the overloaded motorbike shakes the surroundings, deafening.
The small truck idles noisily as it waits for unloading, seemingly endless.
The vendors shout at each other, occasionally someone's loud call startles me.
Life rushes on in the midst of the night like this, with no one paying attention to the person holding a camera capturing their moments. I almost snap a photo of the driver adjusting his pants as if preparing to 'fish' right by the wall. Both of us exchange amused glances, then I swiftly move on.
Outside, it's bustling, but inside the market, it's tightly shut, with a security guard patrolling, shining a flashlight for inspection.
The sound of sweeping by a middle-aged woman accompanies the energetic footsteps of some diligent young men jogging.
Meanwhile, the footsteps of a person dressed in pristine attire are eerily silent.
Somewhere, the smell of burning wood and the aroma of broth indicate that the noodle soup stalls have begun setting up to welcome their first customers.
5 a.m. – the night gradually recedes, making way for tomorrow's sun.
Strolling along Phan Dinh Phung Street towards near Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, the sky begins to brighten. The light is gentle, not in clusters as I imagined, but enough to warm the chilly autumn air.
The bells of Cua Bac Church resonate, welcoming early morning worshippers. Since I'm still in the 'itchy feet' phase, I'll have to make another appointment with the Lord later today.
On the spacious sidewalk, groups of people of all ages are indiscriminately setting up nets, enthusiastically engaging in morning badminton. It's a wonderful cultural aspect, promoting both health and community bonding.
The red flag with a yellow star gently flutters atop the National Assembly building, indicating my journey towards the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. It's my first return here since I was 10, touring with my father. The scenery remains unchanged, only my perspective has shifted, seeing alongside the solemnity, the image of Hanoi residents leisurely living within the compound, contrasting yet harmonizing in a truly simple manner.
6 a.m. – still in no rush.
After a sleepless night, I'm finally feeling weary. Walking back along Phan Dinh Phung Street, the rays of sun begin to pour onto the sidewalk. Any bride and groom seizing this quiet moment to capture wedding photos must truly grasp the opportunity.
Each tree branch filtering the sunlight creates intriguing shades. Now I understand why this street is famous among photographers and muses alike.
On both sides of the road, cafes are gradually arranging their chairs. No customers yet, only the sun casting shadows of trees onto the empty seats.
The sounds are getting more lively, as the rhythmic music of various exercise groups echoes in the park. The streets are starting to fill up with rushing cars, racing to make it on time for school. In the park, there are still people calmly breathing, leisurely stretching. I decide not to hurry, sit down and watch if their dance is rhythmic or not.
At 7 a.m., the time when I should be 'productive,' sleepiness hits me, urging me to quickly return to the dorm for a nap. It makes sense, as the sun is starting to rise higher. I can feel the heat, not too stifling but quite uncomfortable, partly because I've already walked a lot.
I was supposed to end my trip to Hanoi quite normally: go to Cafe Giang, choose a gallery to visit until noon, have bun cha at Cua Bac, spend the afternoon hopping between cafes, then go back to the dorm, pack, and head to the airport. But the uncomfortable bed led me to stroll through the Old Quarter from 3 a.m. to 7 a.m., leaving behind an experience that was both satisfying and unique. Ultimately, I only missed the morning for sleep, still managing to seize the afternoon to observe Hanoi before my flight.
Author: Nguyen Duc Le Hoang
*Article participating in Mytour Golocal program
Mytour Golocal is a blog writing program introducing beautiful destinations across Vietnam, part of the Mytour Go & Share program. This is a great opportunity to promote local tourism to everyone. For each qualified article, you will receive 800,000 VND and a chance to become a collaborator with Mytour. For more details about the program, see: https://trv.lk/golocal
