Marvel at the 'Eye of the Mountain'

The Mountain Eye, also known as Phja Piót in the language of the Tày ethnic group, translates to the 'Mountain Abyss,' or more romantically referred to as the 'enchanted valley.'

Marvel at the 'Eye of the Mountain'

During the rainy season, the range of Mountain Eyes emerges amidst the crystal-clear waters, creating an indescribable beauty. In the dry season, as the water recedes, it reveals a terrain ready for leisurely strolls or adventurous hikes, leading to the unique Thủng cave – a truly unparalleled natural wonder in the Cao Bằng Non-water Geopark.

Mã Phục Pass, with its 7 steep slopes in the border district of Trà Lĩnh, Cao Bằng, welcomed us with the chilly wind of the year-end days, carrying the mystical mist that quickly dissipated, revealing a bright sky. Travelling along Provincial Road 205 for an additional 10km brings us to Bản Danh village, Quốc Toản commune – an ancient village of the Tày ethnic people.

We strolled northeast along a unique road, sandwiched between stone fences skillfully arranged in the manner of cat's earthenware, extending along the rocky garden plots and livestock pens of the indigenous people. The Tày women, preparing the soil for sweet potato cultivation, greeted us with warmth and openness.

Local residents find it intriguing

Not long after, before our eyes, a vast valley unfolds with numerous dried-up ponds beside lush green meadows, where horses and cattle graze leisurely. In the distance stands Mountain Eye, triangular in shape, with a cave penetrating through its peak.

Standing at the base of the mountain, one can see the green expanse of the forest inside the cave. The wilderness here is adorned by the Nậm Trá waterfall, about 1km east of the mountain gap. Despite the dry season, water flows vigorously through the deep valley before disappearing into the underground Pác Sắp cave (locally meaning water flowing into the cave in the opposite mountain range).

Mountain Eye, also known as Phja Piót in the language of the Tày ethnic group, translates to the 'Mountain Abyss,' or more romantically referred to as the 'enchanting valley.' It is part of the Thang Hen area, consisting of 36 large and small bodies of water, along with numerous collapsed caves, creating a rare interconnected underground water system.

Among them, the Pác Sắp cave stretches approximately 1km, with a complex terrain and ideal rocky crevices for various hidden fish species. Every year, during the rainy season from June to August, water from the source fills the entire valley, forming a large lake of about 15 hectares called Nậm Trá. This is the time when schools of carp and catfish, some weighing 5-7kg, swim up from the cave to the surface, attracting local residents to row boats, set nets, and cast fishing lines to catch the bountiful seasonal delicacies.

By September, the water surface suddenly bubbles and the lake swiftly drains into the ground mysteriously within a few hours. The phenomenon of water levels rising and falling with the seasons is common, but at times, the changes can be quite abrupt, creating an indescribable mystical atmosphere.

Despite the chilling weather, the mountain paths remain damp. Our guide, Mr. Hoang Van Hop, advises us to securely tie our pant legs to ward off insects and hunger-squeezed leeches as we ascend the Eye of God cave. Mr. Hoang Van Le, the village chief of Ban Danh, joins us for a rather amusing reason: apparently, hardly anyone from the village has ventured up here before!

To reach the cave, we had to circle around the left side of the mountain, as the direct slope, while low, posed its own set of challenges, visible even from the valley. In return, we were treated to a panoramic view of the entire Eye of God mountain.

Serenity within the mountain's 'Eye of God'

After an hour of strenuous climbing, the Thung Cave, approximately 45m high, 50m wide, and nearly 100m long, unveils itself behind a massive tilted rock. The uniqueness of the Eye of God lies in the lush vegetation thriving inside the cave, with roots clinging to limestone rocks or sprawling across the cave floor, resembling a tangle of snakes.

Nevertheless, the forest is not so dense, allowing sunlight to permeate the space. White crystalline stalactites descend from the cave ceiling, shimmering and immaculate.

There's nothing more enchanting than sitting on a large rock in the middle of the cave, expanding the view in both directions: the cave's entrance faces southeast towards Quoc Toan commune, revealing a vast landscape with rolling hills extending endlessly to the misty mountain range. Looking west-northwest towards Cao Chuong commune, one can spot the simple wooden houses of the Hmong people peacefully nestled amidst the encircling mountains.

According to Mr. Hoang Van Le, since the promotion of the Eye of God mountain by Cao Bang tourism and its inclusion in the list of 9 tourist spots in the Non Nuoc Cao Bang Geopark, there has been an increase in visitors (although most just stand below, admiring the peculiar mountain). However, the impact is not significant. Simply put, the conditions here are lacking, and locals haven't shown much interest in developing community tourism services, except for a few households engaging in self-driven initiatives like transporting sightseers on Lake Nam Tra for a fee or selling miscellaneous items.

If the panoramic views of Ma Pi Leng Pass and the Tu San Gorge are highlights of the Dong Van Karst Plateau (Ha Giang), then the Eye of God mountain, the cluster of 36 small and large lakes, along with the caves and Nam Tra waterfall in the Thang Hen large lake system, stand out in the Global Geopark of Cao Bang—a valuable asset that could lift Cao Bang tourism to new heights.

What to know when visiting the Eye of God mountain

The Eye of God mountain is approximately 50km away from Cao Bang city, making it convenient for visitors using cars or motorbikes for an adventurous journey. Motorbikes are recommended during the dry season, as you can ride down to the valleys surrounding the Thung mountain.

From August to May, the dry season turns the vast valley around Thung mountain into lush green grasslands, perfect for outdoor exploration and picnics. From June to August, water from Nam Tra waterfall and underground caves flows in, transforming the area into the expansive Nam Tra Lake. Exploring the Eye of God mountain caves is best during the dry season, and it's essential to hire a local guide.

The nearest residential area to the Eye of God mountain is Ban Danh village, home to the Tày ethnic community. You can buy sweet potatoes, corn, vegetables, or fresh fish from the locals and request them to prepare a meal for you, with prices depending on your generosity. It's advisable to prepare food and drinks in Cao Bang city before coming here. If you plan to camp overnight, inform the head of Ban Danh village and the local authorities.

As reported by Tran The Dung from Tuoi Tre

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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour