Buzz
The “comb over” often receives unfair criticism as a hairstyle from the 1970s used to conceal a bald spot at the top. However, today, it has evolved into a popular and adaptable style suitable for individuals with thinning hair or those with 2–6 in (5.1–15.2 cm) of hair on top. Whether you have a full head of hair and want a tidy or relaxed comb over, or if you're balding on top and prefer the bald comb over look, this style offers versatility and confidence.
Step-by-Step Guide
Discovering Your Natural Part
Shampoo and gently pat dry your hair. Damp hair makes it easier to identify your natural parting line. After towel-drying to remove excess moisture, gently comb or brush your hair forward from the crown.
- Most individuals have a singular, natural part (or parting line) extending from the back to the front of the head, typically leaning towards the right or left. Your hair naturally falls away from this parting line on both sides.
- Some may have two parts, one on each side, though usually, one side is more prominent and easier to locate and work with.
Locate the swirl (or cowlick) near the crown of your head. At the upper back of your head, you'll notice a swirl pattern in your hair. This marks the starting point of your part at the back. If needed, use mirrors to assist in finding it, then touch it with your fingertips.
- If your hair tends to stand up in this area at the back, you likely have a cowlick.
- Individuals with two parting lines will have two cowlicks at the back. Opt for the more prominent one.
Gradually move your fingers forward from the swirl. As you run your fingers along the parting line from the back to the front, your hair will naturally fall to one side or the other of the part. By the time you reach your forehead, you'll have a clear indication of the parting line's position.
- At this stage, your part may appear slightly uneven. If you're aiming for a casual comb over, maintain this relaxed appearance. For a tidy comb over, use a comb (after applying pomade) to define the part further.
Creating a Polished Comb Over
Apply your preferred pomade evenly through your damp hair. While your hair is still damp post-shower and towel-dry, distribute a small to moderate amount of pomade onto your hands. Massage it through your hair evenly, then use your fingers to comb your hair forward and, if necessary, redefine your parting line.
- Oil-based pomades typically offer a stronger and longer-lasting hold, but water-based pomades are gentler on your hair and easier to wash out. Both types come in various holding strengths and shine levels (i.e., how glossy they make your hair appear).
- For a polished comb over, opt for a pomade with a strong hold and glossy finish, providing your hair with a sleek, wet appearance.
- If your part still lacks sharpness and clarity, consult your barber regarding styling options. Some individuals prefer using clippers to achieve a broader, more precise parting line.
Achieve a sleeker appearance by styling your hair with a comb. Direct the hair downward and away from the parting line on the shorter side of your part. On the longer side, comb the hair towards the back at a 30-45 degree angle.
- Opting for a comb rather than a brush reduces hair volume on top, allowing the pomade to maintain a stronger hold.
- This sleek style complements oval or square face shapes. Consult with your barber or stylist to determine the best comb over style for you.
- Consider using the clipper over comb technique.
- Elevate the hair to a 90-degree angle using a flat top comb.
- Utilize a clipper with a half guard to trim across the top of the comb.
Add volume to your neat comb over with a brush. Guide the hair downward on the short side using a comb or brush. Sweep the hair to the side and back on the longer side with a brush. Experiment with various backward angles—30, 45, or even 60 or 75 degrees—or lift and sweep the hair back at the front to enhance volume around your forehead.
- Increasing volume in your neat comb over can complement a diamond-shaped face, helping to balance facial features. Consult your barber or stylist for personalized advice.
Creating a Relaxed Comb Over Look
Blow-dry your hair gently to add volume. Following your shower and towel-dry, use a blow dryer on low heat to impart lift and body to your hair. Leave it slightly damp for optimal results.
- Direct the blow dryer upwards towards your hair and move it from front to back to boost volume. You can also elevate your hair with a brush or your hand as you dry.
- Despite requiring similar effort, a loose comb over should appear less structured and groomed compared to a neat comb over. Adding volume with a blow dryer achieves this effect.
Distribute a small amount of hair wax evenly throughout your hair. Unlike pomades, which offer a tighter hold and more shine, hair waxes provide a subtler hold and a natural appearance. Start with a pea-sized amount and adjust as necessary.
- Warm the wax between your hands and massage it into your hair using your fingertips.
- Experiment with different amounts of hair wax to find the perfect balance. Add more if you desire stronger hold or longevity, and reduce if you prefer less shine or hold.
Re-establish your part and brush your hair to each side of it. Following blow-drying and application of wax, you may need to redefine your parting line with your fingers. Repeat the process of guiding your hair from your cowlick to your forehead, directing it to either side of the part. Subsequently, enhance volume and definition with a brush for your relaxed comb over.
- On the longer side of your part—the side crossing over the top of your head—sweep the hair back at an angle for added lift. On the shorter side, brush it downward with a slight backward angle.
- If you desire an extremely relaxed comb over, skip the brush and solely use your fingers!
Exploring a Bald Comb Over
Explore alternative bald hairstyle options beforehand. Despite its popularity in the 1970s, the traditional bald comb over—attempting to conceal a bald spot by growing long hair on top—is generally discouraged by styling experts. Often, this method draws more attention to the bald spot. Consider these alternatives instead:
- A modern comb over, subtly guiding slightly longer hair over thinning areas. This is effective if your hairline is receding but you have good coverage on top.
- Complete head shaving.
- Trimming hair very short all around.
- Cultivating facial hair to divert attention—especially complementary with a shaved head or very short haircut.
- Experimenting with the 'Ceasar' style—growing hair slightly longer on top and loosely combing it forward.
- Opting for layered cuts on the remaining hair, then loosely tousling—ideal for thinning hair without complete baldness on top.
- Embracing the 'power donut'—maintaining typical hairstyle on the sides while letting the bald spot show.
Grow long hair inside your part. If you've chosen the bald comb over, go for it! Begin by growing hair inside your part until it spans the bald spot. This typically requires a length of at least 3–4 in (7.6–10.2 cm), sometimes even 6 in (15 cm) or more.
- If you have a sizable bald spot reaching the natural part, you may need to shift the part further down the side. This allows hair growth on the side of the bald spot for the comb over.
- Consult a barber experienced with bald comb overs, preferably someone catering to middle-aged and older clients. They can assist in creating a lower part and trimming hair as the comb over progresses.
Direct long hair straight over the bald spot. Following showering and defining your part, use a fine-toothed comb on the longer hair inside the part. Comb it directly over the head so the tips cover the hair on the other side of the bald spot.
- Unlike conventional comb overs, where hair is swept across and slightly back, a bald comb over typically requires a straight across approach. Otherwise, it exposes the front of the bald spot you're attempting to conceal!
Spray hairspray to firmly hold the longer hair in place. While gels, pomades, or other hair products are options, hairspray remains the traditional choice for styling the bald comb over. Generously spray the ends of the combed-over long hair and use your fingers to secure them over the shorter strands beneath.
- Despite using a strong-hold hairspray, windy conditions can disrupt a bald comb over. Consider wearing a stylish hat on breezy days!
Pointers
Essentials
Tidy Comb Over
- Pomade
- Comb
- Brush (optional)
Relaxed Comb Over
- Blow dryer
- Hair Wax
- Brush
Balding Comb Over
- Comb
- Hairspray (maximum hold)
