Memories of Oxford's Afternoon Tea

On the train journey from Paddington, central London, to Oxford, I whimsically envisioned the renowned university city, planning to explore its architectural marvels, cathedrals, university grounds, libraries, and the Cherwell River. However, the unexpected led me to 84 High Street, the inaugural coffee shop in England, established in 1651.

Recalling Oxford's Afternoon Tea

With 168 daily train journeys between London and Oxford, uncovering the timeless imprints of this university city is remarkably convenient. Exiting the train station, the striking view of imposing limestone structures, all in a cohesive gray hue, exudes a classical charm, reminiscent of a venerable scholar in daily prayer.

First stop on my Oxford journey is Christ Church College, founded in 1546, part of the University of Oxford, where 13 Prime Ministers for the United Kingdom were educated. The architectural ensemble is a masterpiece with various functions, including a cathedral, library, tower, hall, and an extensive art collection featuring over 2,000 paintings by renowned artists such as Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael. Navigating through the spaces of Christ Church, each building tells a unique story of its history, architectural style, and decoration—all impeccably preserved, displaying a breathtaking beauty for distant travelers.

The allure of wandering in Oxford lies in the proximity of landmarks—be it a cathedral, a university building, or even just a bridge connecting two buildings—all concealing fascinating stories behind them. The “Bridge of Sighs,” built in 1914, connecting two buildings of Hertford College at the corner of Catte Street, is a prime example. The bridge was constructed to facilitate students' movement between the two buildings, but during health assessments, Hertford College students were often remarked as more prone to lethargy and obesity compared to students from other colleges. Consequently, the college decided to close the bridge, forcing students to walk farther and be more active. The name 'Bridge of Sighs' emerged, and though today's students' weight concerns are hardly noticed, most visitors to Oxford seek out the existing bridge to hear the intriguing story and admire the architectural beauty of the century-old structure.

Discussing Oxford's Architectural Beauty

Roaming around Oxford's captivating attractions, lost in the moment, as I glance back, shadows lengthen. Retracing my steps on High Street towards Oxford station, I suddenly spot house number 84, the Grand Café, with a sign boldly declaring: “This is the first coffee shop in England since 1650.” With a weary soul and a tired cushion, I decide to reward myself with moments of relaxation in the oldest café in England. Glancing through the menu, the names of familiar coffees are eclipsed by the term “Afternoon Teas.”

The tradition of afternoon tea in England originated after the establishment of the Grand Café. In the past, the English often had two meals a day, creating a long gap of 10–12 hours between breakfast and dinner. Around 3–4 in the afternoon, people felt hunger and fatigue. The Duchess Anna Maria of Bedford, among them, pioneered the afternoon tea ritual at Woburn Abbey in 1830. Initially, afternoon tea consisted of a tea pot served with various cakes, primarily intended to stave off hunger. Subsequently, the ritual expanded from the aristocracy to the common folk, making England the world's leading consumer of tea. It is often humorously said that in England, a day may lack a queen, but it can't lack tea.

The afternoon tea menu at the Grand Café offers four choices: two for regular tea with baked goods, butter, and jam, priced at £6.50 and £9.50, and two for a more upscale High Tea experience at £16.95 and £23.45. In the history of afternoon tea in England, High Tea didn't signify premium tea but was meant to cater to the working class, those with less time and money to indulge in a leisurely afternoon tea like the aristocracy. Instead, they had tea on the dining table during dinner (seated on high chairs, rather than relaxing in the salon or strolling around, like during afternoon tea). The term High Tea is associated with that context. However, as time passed, High Tea in the menu is often chosen by international tourists, perhaps due to a misunderstanding that it represents premium tea. Today, High Tea has evolved, contrary to its original meaning. The two High Tea options at the Grand Café include eggs, smoked salmon, pastries, sandwiches, cornbread, strawberry preserves, and even champagne, resembling a sumptuous meal at a luxurious restaurant.

The timeless elegance of Grand Café is reflected in its red-veined marble pillars and the lofty ceiling, creating an aura of sophistication. The subdued yellow tones dominate, providing warmth, a sense of tranquility, and instant joy when sipping on each Earl Grey black tea infused with the enticing scent of orange. It brings a conclusion to a day of exploration in Oxford with numerous fascinating discoveries.

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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour