October brings reminiscence of autumn in Hanoi.

Autumn is the season of harmony between earth and sky, of numerous specialties that linger in the memories of those who have wandered far from the capital.

October brings reminiscence of autumn in Hanoi.

Hanoi is embracing autumn. While autumn elsewhere is beautiful and romantic, in the memories of many, the most beautiful autumn is autumn in Hanoi. Even those not born or raised in this city, merely passing through as travelers, find it difficult to forget the scent of autumn lingering in their minds.

Autumn in Hanoi doesn't boast golden leaves as commonly believed. Perhaps because most trees lining the streets are Terminalia catappa and Dracontomelon duperreanum, shedding leaves between late spring and early summer. Even longtime Hanoians cannot accurately pinpoint when autumn begins. It's only when one wakes up to a chilly morning, steps out of bed to feel the crisp air, sees the clear blue sky, feels the gentle sunrays like honey, senses the faint breeze tousling their hair, and notices the first fragrant blossoms of milk flowers along Nguyen Du street, that they realize: autumn has arrived.

The season of golden chrysanthemums

In Hanoi, people mark seasons by flowers. With the city's distinct four seasons, you can anticipate which flowers will bloom each month. So, if you've flipped through the last pages of September calendars and still haven't seen the golden chrysanthemums while the lotus ponds on West Lake have withered, restlessness sets in.

During this season, everywhere in makeshift markets and sidewalk stalls, you can catch glimpses of bouquets of chrysanthemums in various hues: white, purple. But the most common, the most distinctive is the yellow chrysanthemum. The flower carts of ladies from the suburbs, carrying the gentle autumn, weave through the streets and alleys.

In the past, Hanoians favored large, fully bloomed chrysanthemums, with big, vibrant yellow petals. Nowadays, flower arrangements have become simpler, so many families only use smaller yellow chrysanthemums. Bunches of yellow chrysanthemums arranged in white ceramic vases, banana leaves, small plates of green rice, and a few unidentified red berries have unknowingly become the soul of Hanoi autumn.

The season of green rice flakes, the season of red berries

'The autumn breeze carries the scent of new green rice flakes' - that verse is surely etched in the memories of many from their school days. Even those who have never been to the capital know about Vong village's green rice flakes - a simple, enduring delicacy amidst the bustling city. Although Vong village doesn't have as many households making green rice flakes anymore, the village's reputation and its characteristic gift are still fondly remembered by many.

Hanoians living far from home may forget their native language at times, but they'll never forget the fragrant taste of Vong green rice flakes, sweet and sticky on the tongue. Green rice flakes are made from early-harvested rice, undergoing many intricate and delicate processes to produce the final product. Even diligent and healthy individuals cannot make good green rice flakes; it requires true skill. The most crucial step in making good green rice flakes is the roasting process - the rice grains are fragile, and if not roasted skillfully, they easily burn or lose their aroma; if the fire is too high, they stick together, losing their essence.

Expertly roasted green rice flakes exhibit a natural pale green color without the need for artificial dyes, with a chewy texture and a sweet, milky flavor, achieving the standard of 'sidewalk green rice flakes, fragrance lingering with each step' as sung in a folk song. The finished green rice flakes are wrapped in layers of lotus leaves at the end of the season, large and wide, exuding a faint, lingering aroma. However, if directly wrapped in lotus leaves, the green rice flakes will quickly lose their fragrance, so it's best to consume them immediately after purchase; otherwise, if offered as incense, they are wrapped in an additional layer of leaves inside to preserve the aroma.

Alongside the plate of green rice flakes, on the ancestral altar during autumn, a few clusters of bright red jujubes are indispensable, large, ripe fruits. The jujube season typically starts from the 7th to the 9th lunar month every year, with the peak ripening period in the 8th lunar month. Buyers of red jujubes are often the elderly or traditional families because the soft fruit, sweet taste is suitable for the elderly, and they make beautiful offerings, providing a colorful array for ancestral offerings.

The season of snacks

Autumn, being the back-to-school season, explains why there's an abundance of snacks available; not only due to the abundance of produce but also because at this time, schoolchildren have returned to their studies. In every Hanoian's student memory, the start of the school year is incomplete without pickled dracontomelon or preserved starfruits. A package of tangy, sweet pickled fruits, often more flavorful with sugar, salt, and chili than the fruits themselves, leaves a lasting impression in one's mind.

The dracontomelon season begins from late summer to early autumn. While June sees unripe, green fruits with hard flesh, mainly used for boiling refreshing sour soups or making intricate pickled snacks, the late summer dracontomelons yield only a few soft, ripe fruits with pale yellow skins. Skilled individuals may pickle them with salt, sugar, and chili powder, ready to eat in a few hours. But for those less adept, simply peeling ripe dracontomelons proves to be quite a challenge. The taste of late-season dracontomelons still retains a slight sourness but with added sweetness, perfect for dipping with a mixture of salt and sugar, leaving nothing to be desired.

Indulging in snacks in the capital wouldn't be complete without boiled snails. Not as elaborate as Saigon-style snails with various exquisite preparations, Hanoi's boiled snails are simply steamed with lime leaves in a rustic manner, yet enough to delight even the most discerning palate. Hanoi's Ha Trang snail stall at the intersection of Dinh Liet and Hang Bac has remained faithful to its one and only dish for years, yet it seems the number of customers never dwindles. People are willing to wait in long queues, sitting on bustling sidewalks or squeezing into cramped rooms, just to savor the plump snails, dipped in the time-honored sweet and sour dipping sauce, an experience unmatched anywhere else.

The season of honey-like sunshine, the season of rendezvous

October brings fairly pleasant weather. You can feel a slight chill in the early mornings, sometimes accompanied by a few late-season showers, but quickly transitioning to dry, crisp air. 'Honey-like sunshine' is how Hanoians describe the weather these days. Gone is the scorching heat of July-August; this season's sun is gentle, casting an even glow over branches and grass, illuminating the scenery under the clear blue sky without feeling oppressive. If you're staying home these days, you're probably 'on good terms' with nature.

Autumn today is different from autumn of the past. Gone are the images of women selling fragrant persimmons in the heart of the city, even the bustling street vendors laden with childhood memories have disappeared. But you can still create your own autumn rendezvous. Sometimes it's just a meet-up on a street corner, sipping coffee at the foot of an old villa, or a leisurely stroll along the solemn, ancient streets beloved by photography enthusiasts. Just that is enough to prolong the memories of Hanoi autumn.

By Nguyên Chi/Ngôi sao

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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour