Origin Story of Army Hot Pot

Inspired by wartime circumstances, army hot pot has become a national dish in South Korea.

Origin Story of Army Hot Pot

Budae jjigae, also known as army base stew, is one of South Korea's most beloved dishes. This stew combines fish cakes, tokbokki, sausages, kimchi, noodles, scallions, chili powder, alongside ingredients like canned meat and cheese.

Its origin story carries a somber narrative. During wartime, people struggled with food scarcity and stores rarely had reserves of meat. Meanwhile, in Uijeongbu city (about an hour's drive from Seoul), a US military base had abundant canned meat. Korean chefs came up with a creative dish from these limited resources. They lined up outside the military base, even collecting leftover American rations.

Canned meat was expensive and salty, so it needed to be rationed. Koreans added kimchi, garlic, vegetables, chili paste, instant noodles, canned beans, cheese, sausages, and cold cuts. The result? A spicy stew blending canned meat, cheese, and vegetables, named army base stew budae jjigae (“budae” meaning “military base” and “jjigae” referring to “stew” or “soup”).

Meat scarcity persisted into the post-war period. The war devastated factories, homes, and about 10% of South Korea's population was lost. Among the surviving Koreans, many continued to innovate the budae jjigae dish. However, the government at that time disagreed and issued a ban on Koreans buying American products.

This led to a black market selling ingredients for army hot pot. Retail stores catering to US troops stationed in Korea became places to buy canned meat. This was deemed illegal until a Korean company began producing it in the 1980s.

After the ban on using American products was lifted, budae jjigae blossomed into a nationwide favorite. With historical significance, sociologist Grace M. Cho described this dish as 'a culinary adventure'.

Today, budae jjigae appears on most restaurant menus, especially in university areas. Many are unaware of its historical story; they simply eat it because they enjoy the flavor. According to Lee Ok-hyang, a restaurant owner, the secret to making delicious budae jjigae is kimchi. Kimchi needs to be fermented for at least one or two years.

Budae Jjigae is served in restaurants in South Korea and some places around the world. In Uijeongbu province, the birthplace of army hot pot, there's even a street named after this dish. Some restaurants here have been serving army hot pot since the end of the war (1953) until now. A lavish meal with budae jjigae costs about 9,000 – 20,000 won (170,000 – 380,000 Vietnamese dong) per person.

Here are some suggested places to enjoy army hot pot:

Boyeong Sikdang Restaurant at 214-127, Uijeongbu1-dong, Uijeongbu City, Gyeonggi Province.

Subway station area near Sookmyung Women's University, Seoul.

Daewoo Budaejjigae Restaurant at 641-18, Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam, Seoul.

By Ngan Duong/ Star

***

Reference: Mytour Travel Guide