For the second time in Chiang Mai, my fondness remains intact for this ancient, tranquil, and simple city.
Initially, I had no plans for Chiang Mai. I simply booked a cheap AirAsia ticket to Bangkok and decided to figure out the rest later. After booking my Ho Chi Minh City to Bangkok flight, I started hunting for affordable domestic flights in Thailand every day.
I was eager to visit Koh Samui, Krabi, or Hua Hin, not considering Chiang Mai since I had been there before. However, Samui tickets were not budget-friendly, and only Bangkok Air operated flights, making them more expensive than the Ho Chi Minh City to Bangkok route. As for Krabi, friends mentioned its beaches weren't as beautiful as Samui, resembling Phuket, which I had visited several times.
When asking my travel companions for opinions, they all expressed interest in Chiang Mai because none of them knew about it. So, I ended up booking a flight to Chiang Mai, becoming an unintentional guide for my friends and reuniting with a place I visited over five years ago, leaving lasting beautiful impressions.

Arriving at Bangkok airport with a growling stomach, I quickly sat down at the food court and devoured a spicy tom yum dish. Then, I rushed to the domestic terminal for the connecting flight to Chiang Mai. Due to a tight budget, I booked consecutive flights, fearing that a delay from Ho Chi Minh City to Bangkok would jeopardize the trip. Fortunately, everything went according to the schedule, and upon reaching Chiang Mai, the city lights were already aglow.
Chiang Mai, the second-largest city in the land of Thai smiles, is situated north of Bangkok, just about an hour's flight away. Unlike the bustling modernity of Bangkok, Chiang Mai doesn't boast numerous shopping malls or commercial entertainment spots. Instead, it exudes a serene and gentle beauty, uniquely its own.

Chiang Mai doesn't have sky trains or subways like Bangkok; its main modes of public transport are red cabs, tuk-tuks, and taxis. In Chiang Mai, I found red cabs and tuk-tuks to be the most enjoyable. The cool breeze, riding in a red cab or tuk-tuk, offers a fascinating view of the streets. With fewer vehicles than Bangkok, tuk-tuk drivers here speed like the wind, passing by low houses, occasionally crossing charming water bodies and rivers.

Chiang Mai boasts abundant greenery; the city lacks elevated or underground roads like Bangkok, resulting in trees planted throughout. Around November, Chiang Mai's streets bloom with beautiful golden flowers. I don't know the name of these flowers, but gazing at the vibrant yellow blooms is incredibly pleasing.
Mornings in Chiang Mai are delightful, with quiet streets and the city waking up relatively late. Cafes also open late. Similar to Ho Chi Minh City, Chiang Mai has many beautiful cafes, and it seems the locals enjoy coffee as well. There are numerous coffee carts resembling street-side coffee shops, and occasionally, there are small cafes with adorable table sets, hanging flower pots, and enchanting hanging vines.

Chiang Mai is renowned for the Night Bazaar, always bustling with tourists. The night market starts in the evening and lasts until the early morning. Travelers often say, 'You haven't truly been to Chiang Mai if you haven't visited the Night Bazaar,' and I find this sentiment to be absolutely true! In my opinion, the Night Bazaar is the most charming and entertaining night market I've ever visited.
Mostly offering handicrafts and handmade goods from the Chiang Mai region and the northern provinces of Thailand, the Night Bazaar stands out for its absence of Chinese products. The handmade items here are not only beautiful but also affordable. Importantly, the sellers are incredibly friendly; whether you buy something or not, they are cheerful, and taking photos is a breeze without anyone giving you disapproving looks. The Night Bazaar area is expansive, stretching on both sides of the street and extending into wide plots of land with large traditional houses. Near the night market, you'll find numerous eateries, cafes, bars, and affordable massage parlors, surpassing those in Bangkok both in service and hospitality.

Chiang Mai's Night Market, although vast and crowded, emanates a tranquil and gentle ambiance, much like the people of Chiang Mai themselves. The locals here are remarkably friendly, always smiling, and carry themselves with a calm and unhurried demeanor. Visiting several temples and shrines in Chiang Mai, I opted for a tuk-tuk ride with an hourly rental. The tour around the famous temples in the Chiang Mai area took about 3 leisurely hours, costing 200 baht per hour. Chiang Mai drivers can speak English, though not fluently, they understand and can communicate on basic matters. A amusing quirk in Thai language use is the phrase 'no have' instead of 'don't have,' sounding almost like 'no hair,' which never fails to elicit a chuckle.

The brilliantly golden-coated Doi Suthep Temple is a must-visit in Chiang Mai, perched atop the highest point of Doi Suthep. 'Doi' in Thai means hill or mountain. We took a tuk-tuk to the base of the hill and then transferred to a red cab as the tuk-tuk couldn't ascend the slope.

The winding mountain roads are picturesque, adorned with lush greenery. The temple, situated at the summit of Doi Suthep, requires climbing over 300 tiered steps from the parking lot. For those averse to walking, an elevator is available for 50 baht. In Thailand, entering any temple necessitates removing shoes and dressing modestly, whether the floor is paved, tiled, carpeted, or simply bare ground, as it symbolizes respect for the higher powers.
Similarly, their offering style is distinctive; they place donations in merit boxes or attach them to decorative bamboo clips, rather than the open display commonly seen in northern temples in our country.

Chiang Mai's temples, though not as grand as those in Bangkok, are mostly more beautiful, ancient, and steeped in a longer history, as Chiang Mai is the cultural cradle of Thailand. Back in 2006 during my visit, I had the chance to witness the head-shaving ceremony for young individuals dedicating a year to monastic life. Almost everyone here spends some time in a temple for spiritual development. Those with a profound connection to Buddhism may remain in monkhood for life, while others return to secular life. In my view, this practice contributes to the kind and friendly nature of the Thai people. If I were to live in Thailand, I would certainly consider participating in such short-term retreats.

On my second day in Chiang Mai, I rented a car to visit Chiang Rai, exploring The White Temple, encountering the long-necked tribal people, and witnessing the Golden Triangle. Although Chiang Rai is nearly 200 km from Chiang Mai, the road is quite good. The most memorable experience in Chiang Rai was the White Temple or Wat Rong Khun, located 13 km south of the city center and built in the late '90s. This exceptionally beautiful and unique temple is the masterpiece of Chaloemchai Khositphiphat, now a favorite destination for travelers visiting Chiang Rai.
Visiting this temple, what caught me off guard was its restroom – possibly the most beautiful and grandiose contender for the 'Best restroom in the world' award, if such a competition existed.

My initial plan was to witness the long-necked tribe, but the entrance fee was exorbitant at 500 baht per person, only for observing and photographing these people. Unlike other places where entrance is free, this turned out to be the most expensive ticket. According to the ticket seller, the high price is necessary to support the long-necked tribe, a minority group from Bumar seeking refuge here. They live in a designated area where they can't leave due to a lack of documentation. Those caring for them require substantial funds for their well-being. Thus, the entrance fee is set at 500 baht per person. Calculating this to be around 350,000 VND, I deemed it unworthy. I decided to save this for a future visit to Bumar and contented myself with observing and capturing a few photos from outside before proceeding to the Golden Triangle.

Much like everywhere in the beautiful land of Thailand, dining in Chiang Mai is exceptionally delightful. Being a Thai food enthusiast, every meal I had seemed delicious. The key is to check the prices before ordering since I travel with a limited budget. Pho is 30-40 baht/bowl, papaya salad is 40-50 baht/plate, and tom yum ranges from 70-100 baht per serving – affordable and incredibly tasty. Addicted to tom yum and papaya salad, I indulged in at least two tom yum meals and one serving of papaya salad every day.

In the evening, I spent over 600 baht to attend a traditional Lanna dance show and enjoy dinner in the Khantoke style at the Old Cultural Centre. The Lanna people once ruled the Chiang Mai region, possessing their own language and distinct culture. If you're in Chiang Mai, this show is a must to gain insight into the culture of Northern Thailand. The Lanna performers engage in a Finger Nail Dance, wearing long curved artificial nails, which is beautiful and graceful.

During dinner, guests watch the outdoor performance enthusiastically, despite the relatively high ticket prices. The unique dance routines and the specially arranged meal contribute to the allure of Thai tourism, attracting many visitors and bringing in substantial revenue. Towards the end, guests even get a chance to join a lively dance with the performers to traditional Lanna music, leaving them with vivid memories of this land of smiles.

Returning to Chiang Mai after 5 years, my emotions are still overwhelming, and my love for the ancient, peaceful, and simple Chiang Mai remains. The warm, hospitable, and gentle people of Chiang Mai continue to leave a lasting impression. Surely, if given the opportunity, I will revisit Chiang Mai, spend a few more days here, and then venture to Pai – an equally fascinating region not far from Chiang Mai, highly praised by many global travel websites.
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Source: Travel Guide from Mytour – As reported by Ngoisao.net.
MytourJuly 1, 2013