'Savor Mường Quạ rice, relish Giang river fish' – a famous saying in the western region of Nghệ province.
Explore Nghệ An: 'Savor Mường Quạ rice, relish Giang river fish'

'Savor Mường Quạ rice, relish Giang river fish' – a saying that has become famous in the western region of Nghệ province. Those who have visited here should take the time to visit this famous river, to admire the beauty of the wild mountains and forests, experience the feeling of boating on rocks, visit the Dan Lai villages, and taste the famous Mát fish dish.
Enjoy a romantic boat ride on Giang river
The journey starts from Phà Lài dam (Môn Sơn commune, Con Cuông district, Nghệ An province), less than 20km from the center of Con Cuông town. Tourists will be arranged to sit on unique wooden boats with powerful engines as their drivers.
Boat drivers always remind tourists to wear life jackets because although the river appears gentle, it can be quite fierce, with some parts stretching up to 400 – 500m wide, 15m deep, flowing as swiftly as the estuary of Lam river. However, as you go upstream, the river narrows, with some places as narrow as a small stream, where the water flows gently and visitors can stop to wade in the stream for photos.
The Giang River is a long river, located within the Pu Mat National Park complex, boasting the richest and most diverse ecosystem in Vietnam. Upstream boat trips along the Giang River take about two hours, covering a distance of 20km deep into the core area of Pu Mat National Park where the Dan Lai people reside – one of the ethnic minorities, living between mountains and water.
After instructing the passengers, Mr. Thu uses a pole to push the boat away from the dock, then gently pulls the starter cord to start the engine. The sound of the roaring engine, the splashing water from the paddles, propels the boat across the water's surface, taking passengers upstream on the Giang River.
Drifting on the water, tourists can admire the pristine and majestic beauty of the western mountains and forests of Nghệ An. Sparse stilt houses amidst cornfields, lush green rice fields of the villagers at the source; towering mountains reaching for the sky; ancient trees clinging to the cliffs, leaning towards the river. There are sections of the river so clear that you can see schools of fish swimming happily under the water.
Sitting on the boat gliding smoothly along the river, everyone falls silent before the natural beauty of the serene mountains, rivers, and tranquil waters…
Boating on... rocks
As the boat enters the winding sections following the mountain's contours, the distant sound of water crashing against rocks creates a thunderous roar that drowns out the boat's engine. Ahead lies a tight bend, strewn with rocks almost blocking the river, signaling that the boat is about to navigate the rapids.
The Giang River is a long river flowing within the Pu Mat National Park complex, planned to become a natural ecotourism destination of Nghệ province.
According to boat drivers, the busiest time for tourists to visit the Giang River is during May and June. This is when the entire central region basks in the summer sun, but when boating and cooling off in the Giang River, all the heat and discomfort of summer seem to vanish.
'Prepare to go upstream!' After the command, the boat driver quickly throttles the engine while pulling the steering lever tightly to the side to steer the boat into the correct channel. 'Crash,' the boat's bow touches the rocks then tilts straight into the narrow water gap. People scream in fear of capsizing. Underneath the shallow water, large boulders as big as half a table are clearly visible, awaiting the small boat's approach…
This is just the first waterfall on the journey, with at least a dozen more rocky rapids like it, many narrower and shallower. First-time visitors are always scared, but after overcoming a few waterfalls, they start to enjoy the experience.
During the journey, the boat sometimes stands at a 45-degree angle to pass the rapids, sometimes skids over the rocky rapids, and sometimes crashes forcefully into the submerged rocks as if to break apart. The most daring part is passing through the Lẻ crevice, where a strong current flows over the steep rock surface, requiring the boat to exert maximum power to climb the rapids. In such moments, passengers on the boat cannot avoid feeling both nervous and scared, sometimes trembling as water splashes over the boat, and other times cheering as the boat successfully conquers the fierce rapids.
Sharing experiences of navigating rapids, boat drivers advise: When crossing rapids, feel the water current with the paddle. If it's too shallow, you won't have enough force to push the boat over the waterfall. If you push too deep, the paddle might hit rocks and break, causing the water to push back and potentially sink the boat…
Exploring the Least-Known Ethnic Group in Vietnam
Arriving at the headwaters of Khe Co, knowing the water is shallow, boats carrying heavy passengers cannot pass. Boatmen beach the boats on the stream bank for passengers to walk upstream. The Giang River may seem fierce, but it's gentle. In deep sections, it's calm and quiet, with the water level just knee-high. Only two months a year, September and October, when floods from upstream in Laos make it impassable.
Boating on the Giang River not only offers the thrill of upstream boating but also allows tourists to visit the Dan Lai village. Here, they can learn about the life of one of the smallest and most isolated ethnic groups.
Tourists can visit stilt houses nestled among mountains, hillsides, and learn about local customs. They can interact with border guards stationed at Khe Khang, and enjoy characteristic dishes such as sour fish soup, jungle vegetable soup, salted chili fish… And a particularly addictive dish, salted and spiced Mát fish, flavored by the upstream water of the Giang River.
After visiting the Dan Lai ethnic people, tourists can freely explore natural rock pools, swim in the Giang River, or enjoy photographing the beautiful rock platforms adorned with forest canopies. Before returning to the boat to experience riding downstream rapids and sliding boats on dry rocks…
As reported by Traffic News
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Reference: Mytour Travel Handbook
MytourApril 29, 2016