Buzz
The people of Bát Tràng, known for their precious traditional pottery craftsmanship, also boast a rich culinary culture. In the ancestral and lunar New Year feasts of this region, a steaming bowl of hearty squid ink bamboo shoot soup is an indispensable, flavorful delight. The dedication and skill of the women give this dish a unique reputation, like a brand: Bát Tràng squid ink bamboo shoot soup.
People usually cook bamboo shoot soup with beef, ribs, or even duck, but few know about the dish made with squid. It's a perfect combination of the salty taste of the sea with the bitter flavor of bamboo shoots. The village of Bát Tràng has long been familiar with squid ink bamboo shoot soup during gatherings and ancestral celebrations. This dish has become a local specialty, a unique culinary cultural feature in the lives of the people in Bát Tràng commune, Gia Lâm district, Hanoi.
Squid ink bamboo shoot soup is unique to Bát Tràng, hence its distinctive name. To make this dish, bamboo shoots and dried squid must be soaked to soften. This step must be done the night before or even a few days earlier. When selecting bamboo shoots, choose the dry and bright ones, soak them for two days in lukewarm water to soften, ensuring they are flexible enough for thin slicing. The women are meticulous, discarding the older parts of bamboo shoots and using a knife or scissors to finely slice them. The sliced bamboo shoots must be tender and small.
In Bát Tràng, people don't cut the bamboo shoots into perfect squares like in many other places. Therefore, making squid ink bamboo shoot soup has its own unique characteristics. This is also the most laborious and time-consuming step. Those new to this might feel anxious just looking at the bamboo shoot slicing process. Some households may pre-slice and dry the bamboo shoots, storing them in nylon bags, ready to use when needed. Women here also have to juggle between pottery selling at the market and pre-slicing bamboo shoots. After slicing, the bamboo shoots are boiled three times, draining and refreshing the water each time. Then, the bamboo shoots are marinated with fish sauce, salt, and sautéed with lard.
As for the squid, one must use good quality, tender-bodied squid with no dark spots on the tentacles. This type of squid is usually brought from afar or carefully selected in large urban markets. When preparing, only the body of the squid is used, removing the ink sac and tentacles to prevent toughness. The Bát Tràng people soak and clean the squid with alcohol and ginger water. Next, the squid is lightly grilled and rinsed with hot ginger water for a second cleaning. Then, a hammer is used to gently pound the squid, revealing clear meat fibers. The squid is torn into small, thin strands, similar to bamboo shoots, and then sautéed with lard. A bit of sugar and sea salt is added for flavor. The squid strands are torn lengthwise into thin threads, blending harmoniously with the dried bamboo shoot flavor.
In the realm of squid ink bamboo shoot soup, an additional ingredient that blends seamlessly is meat. Pork shoulder, cut into approximately 7-centimeter chunks, undergoes a cooking process until tender. The meat is then shredded into bamboo shoot and squid-like strands, marinated with fish sauce and salt, and sautéed with crispy lard. Each component – bamboo shoots, squid, and meat – is individually sautéed before being mixed together. A final sautéing brings out the unique flavor of Bát Tràng squid ink bamboo shoot soup. The broth for this dish includes chicken broth, pork bone broth, and shrimp broth. The ingredients are meticulously prepared, and the slow simmering process ensures a clear, sweet broth with vibrant colors and rich flavor.
Bát Tràng squid ink bamboo shoot soup is a dish that demands intricate preparation. Its deliciousness hinges on the skill of the homemaker, from selecting ingredients to seasoning them properly. The goal is to have a soup that is golden, clear, sweet, and fragrant. Crispy bamboo shoots and tender yet chewy squid strands make the dish even more enticing.
It's peculiar that the women of Bát Tràng effortlessly navigate the demanding pottery business while wholeheartedly managing the strenuous task of cooking for their families and entertaining guests. The women here epitomize dedication and skill.
Bát Tràng village has long been known for its skilled craftsmanship and sophisticated culinary traditions. While some rules have become simpler nowadays, a feast is not complete without squid ink bamboo shoot soup. This seemingly humble yet intricate dish has become a source of pride in the culinary culture of the people in this region.
***
Source: Mytour Travel Guide – Courtesy of Depplus
TravelInStyle.comFebruary 20, 2014
