Buzz
In Mumbai, Ramadan has arrived. As the sun sets during this sacred month of fasting, a historic street near the Minara Masjid bursts into life for a nightly food extravaganza. Vendors from across the city welcome Muslims breaking their fasts on what transforms into a khau galli, or ‘eat street.’ Everyone is invited to join in the festivities. Local photographer Hashim Badani, a regular at this annual event, beautifully captured the vibrant atmosphere for Dinogo.
The monsoon has set in across Mumbai, bringing both rain and humidity. “I ended up drenched no matter what,” Badani reflects on his experience. The heat and sweat are constant companions as crowds of street-food lovers and Ramadan participants navigate the bustling street, packed like a train at rush hour. “You can’t visit khau galli and stay still,” Badani notes. “You indulge in rich foods, but by the time you leave, you’ve sweated it all off.”
While the menu boasts various meats like chicken tikka and goat brain masala, it’s the sweets—some only available during this festive season—that truly steal the show, according to Badani. At khau galli, diners relish phirni, a sweet rice pudding served in earthen pots, deep-fried malpua pancakes soaked in syrup, and mawa jalebi, delightful spirals of sweet, fried dough.
As Badani documented the lively scene, the vendors eagerly embraced the camera, offering complimentary sweets and taking just enough time to keep the line of eager customers moving. Badani shares that many of these hawkers can earn as much during this nightly celebration as they would over the next half year combined.
The market remains vibrant until dawn, serving post-work diners, late-night revelers, and Muslims seeking a meal before morning prayers. During Ramadan, this part of the city attracts visitors who typically wouldn’t venture here for the khau galli, and Badani appreciates seeing Mumbai’s diverse community unite over food.
Hashim Badani is a photographer based in Mumbai.
