Buzz
The idea of going to Cambodia to watch the Sea Games came to me while I was still in Hanoi. During the bustling days of the 2021 Southeast Asian Games, I looked up information about the next Sea Games in 2023, right next to neighboring Cambodia. Hmm, why not make a backpacking trip there? For someone who has never traveled abroad, driving alone across the border is somewhat daunting. But when the love for roads runs deep in your veins, there's no room for fear. So, less than a month after settling in Saigon, I set foot in the land of Angkor after just one day of preparation.
The First Miles
Driving to Cambodia is quite simple. All you need is a registered motorbike, a passport, a Metfone SIM card, a little cash in USD, and you're ready to complete the customs procedures. Crossing about 70km of National Highway 22, you'll reach the Moc Bai border gate (Tay Ninh). After about 30 minutes to fill out the exit information, the rubber tires once again firmly adhere to the road surface.
On the other side of the Moc Bai border gate is the small city of Bavet, where many casinos are invested by China to attract gamblers. Crossing the border, we can see bustling streets, suspiciously majestic gambling houses. It looks tempting, but no, I'm into sports, not gambling. There are also many Vietnamese people here, you can easily exchange for riels or buy Cambodian SIM cards. However, my personal experience is to exchange USD and buy SIM cards in Saigon beforehand, as the exchange rate will be much better than in Bavet. You can use USD to get your change back in riels, with the usual exchange rate being 1 USD = 4000 riels.
Neak Luong Bridge, reaching here means you're halfway to Phnom Penh
Driving along National Highway 1 for about 170km more will get you to the capital city of Phnom Penh. The roads here are beautiful and convenient, with only 1/5 of Vietnam's population, so the maximum speed allowed is up to 90km/h. However, be cautious, as in densely populated areas, there are speed limit signs indicating only 40km/h. Drive at the right speed to avoid traffic violations, ensuring safety for yourself and avoiding troubles in foreign lands.
Phnom Penh
Large advertising billboards, a distinctive feature of Cambodian urban areas
After nearly 4 hours of driving, I finally arrived in the city of Phnom Penh. To enter the downtown area, we had to cross the Chba Om Pau Bridge, affectionately known to the Vietnamese here as the 'Saigon' bridge, as it evokes memories of the way back home. Turning right at the foot of the bridge, we entered the 'Pagoda neighborhood', where many Vietnamese gather to have a cup of coffee, relax, and have the opportunity to chat with fellow countrymen. The folks here say this neighborhood is full of Vietnamese doing business; those who are well-off buy houses here or in the Olympic area, while those who aren't lucky enough to make ends meet spend about 100 USD a month on rent, with living expenses a bit tight, they manage to save a few million Vietnamese dong. Wages for workers are higher here than in Vietnam, so many have been toiling away for 2 or 3 decades from provinces like Dong Thap, Soc Trang... or even Saigon to make a living here. Since it's the Sea Games season, everyone is excited, even the cafes are focused on the TV to discuss sports. Quite a few people even skipped work, traveling over an hour by car to Visakha Stadium to watch the U22 Vietnam team play. However, the stadium is small, with just over 5000 seats, so even though it's free, tickets were sold out for 10 USD for the opening match against Laos, and 18 USD for the match against Singapore. The demand exceeds supply, and many people with tickets still couldn't get into the stadium to watch their home team play.
Wat Phnom, the starting point of all national highways
The multi-story roof architecture of the main buildings, characteristic of Theravada Buddhist culture
Parting ways with the Pagoda neighborhood, I continued to drive around Phnom Penh to observe the development of this emerging city in the region. Thanks to the bottomless pockets of Chinese investors, skyscrapers have sprung up, with impressively striking architectural styles. Nagaworld, Morgan Tower, Coconut Park... stand tall as a testament to the resurgence of the Khmer people. Not finished being impressed by the magnificent modern structures, I ventured onto Preah Norodom Boulevard to visit the iconic landmarks of the city. Beginning with the Independence Monument, standing 20m tall, completed in 1958 to commemorate the victory of the Khmer people over French colonialism. Next is Wat Phnom, with its giant clock adorned by a temple atop the highest hill in the city. A little insight into the name Phnom Penh, 'Phnom' means mountain, 'Penh' comes from Daun Penh, a wealthy elderly woman in the 14th century who donated money to build this temple on the hill.
Nagaworld and its towering companions
Skyscrapers are popping up one after another, gradually becoming the new face of Phnom Penh
The city of Phnom Penh was meticulously planned by the French, with a circular beltway surrounding it, inside of which are thousands of streets numbered in a checkerboard pattern. While the central area boasts wide 8-lane boulevards, the surrounding districts resemble Chinatown. With three-story houses of considerable age, one might feel as if they've wandered into Chau Doc, Soc Trang, or... District 5. After the 1979 border war, many ethnic Chinese from Cholon crossed the border in search of a new haven in Phnom Penh. With their savvy business instincts, they gradually took over gold shops, restaurants, and stores... Here, red lights wait for a long time without a countdown timer, and while stuck in traffic, one can't help but gaze at familiar sights, as if driving around Saigon.
Houses built since the mid-20th century
Waiting at red lights in Phnom Penh is a rather eerie experience. With the sun blazing at nearly 40 degrees Celsius, and the traffic lights not displaying countdowns, one can easily find themselves waiting for over 2 minutes at each intersection.
Accommodation in Phnom Penh is relatively inexpensive, with prices ranging from about 5-10 USD for a fully furnished room. People here are taught English from a young age, so communication and bargaining are easy wherever you go. If you prefer a lively atmosphere, staying near the Night Market area is a good choice, although prices may be slightly higher. I opted for a hostel near the Olympic Stadium for convenience to the sports venue; it's just a 5-minute walk and costs only about 2/3 as much. When the host learned I was here to cover the Sea Games, she said even locals find it difficult to get tickets to the stadium, so why not try watching the games at the LED screen in the central square near Nagaworld. Taking the advice of the friendly host, I headed to the central square near Nagaworld to watch the Cambodian team play.
The bustling area near the Olympic Sports Complex. Here, you'll find not only sports stadiums and arenas but also a shopping center, bus station, and even... a traditional market.
Inside the Olympic Shopping Center. At a glance, it feels like you're in Singapore.
Phnom Penh Nights
Leaving the guesthouse, I hit the streets in search of dinner. Crossing Pasteur Street, bustling like Saigon's streets, I stumbled upon a colorful display of five-color sticky rice, tempting me with its variety. As I was negotiating the price, the vendor suddenly said “2,000” in Vietnamese. He noticed my body language resembling that of a Chinese person, but upon seeing me riding a Yamaha, he immediately recognized me as Vietnamese, as nearly everyone here rides a Honda. It turns out he's from Dong Thap and has been here for nearly 20 years. Sticky rice, pandan sticky rice, peanut sticky rice, black bean sticky rice, and gac sticky rice exuded fragrant aromas under the afternoon sun. He sells out quickly here; he usually sells around 20 kilograms of sticky rice a day, but it's all gone by 6 p.m. Busy with his sticky rice, he told me about the days of the Covid-19 pandemic, when he, along with many others, returned to Bien Hoa in a panic. They thought they were safe returning home, but our people aren't accustomed to eating sweets in the afternoon, so even with just 5 kilograms of rice a day, many days they had to throw it away. In 2022, when the borders reopened, he came straight to Phnom Penh again, and everything returned to its normal orbit. Happy for him, I supported him with two handfuls, feeling pleasantly full. If you visit Phnom Penh, be sure to stop by Pasteur Street to support him.
The Pasteur Street sticky rice vendor
Enough about the Vietnamese in Phnom Penh; now it's time to talk about the locals. Banners have been hung by the city government everywhere, from doors to boulevards, in the predominant purple color of the Sea Games, blending with the locals' jubilation. The reason they chose purple is understandable; it's the color of autumn obtained when mixing the two colors green and red on the Cambodian flag. Even before the Sea Games began, souvenir items featuring the two mascot rabbits, Borey and Romduol, sold out immediately, despite their prices not being cheap compared to the average income of Cambodians. This shows us how excited the young people of Cambodia are for the Southeast Asian Games, which are being held at home for the first time.
For the older folks, what about them? The best way to get around is by tuk-tuk. When in Cambodia, experiencing a tuk-tuk ride is a must. If you've been to Thailand, Laos, or Myanmar, you probably know what it's like. But for those who haven't, let me paint a picture for you. Tuk-tuks are motorbikes modified with a carriage at the back to carry up to 4 people, similar to the cyclos back home. The price per kilometer is quite affordable, around 2000 riel (~ 12000 VND) per kilometer, comparable to Grab Bike in Vietnam. However, tuk-tuks can accommodate multiple passengers at once, so if you're traveling in a group, it's extremely economical. You can pre-download the PassApp application on your phone, which works just like regular ride-hailing apps without the worry of getting scammed.
Experiencing the Tuk-Tuk Ride Sensation
Having a chat with the tuk-tuk driver, he mentioned that he takes a break every now and then so his kids can attend the Sea Games, but it's all about making a living; passion takes a backseat to putting food on the table. This time of year sees many tourists from neighboring countries, so standing at the entrance of the venues ensures a steady stream of customers. He earns around 250-400 USD per month, which is enough to support his family. During the Sea Games, business seems to pick up; in the first week alone, he earns double or triple his usual income. Despite the challenges, he's very friendly, sharing stories ranging from the upcoming elections in Cambodia to the early marriages of young girls. Thirty thousand dong for over 2 kilometers and a story about your country's culture, that's quite a bargain.
Similar to Saigon, watching football without a glass of beer isn't a characteristic of Southeast Asian culture. Here, they not only provide seats for spectators but also set up tables for... drinking. They do this because the sponsors behind them are often beer companies, and who sits at a table just to drink one can? Beer here is slightly more expensive than in Vietnam, ranging from 3000-5000 riel (18,000-30,000 VND). Buying one can dramatically increases the chance of winning another can, but it's not free and is purchased at a symbolic price of 500 riel (3,000 VND). Apart from beer, they also sell snacks like skewers, green mangoes, and especially... grilled insects. My Khmer friends at the table kept urging me to try, saying 'it's delicious, give it a shot.' Although I know it's high in protein, it doesn't look very appetizing, so I haven't dared to try it yet.
Whether it's Cambodia or Vietnam, the fans are equally passionate. The square lights up every time the home team has the ball, executing swift counterattacks towards Indonesia's side of the field. However, the difference is, their team... is too weak, with few plays that give the audience hope. One goal, two goals, then three, the Indonesian players coolly silence the crowd from the Olympic Stadium to the central square. 'Well, since we're already conceding goals, let's cheer up with... Cheers!' – A new Khmer friend chuckles lightly, handing me a beer.
At the end of the match, Cambodia suffered a 1-3 defeat and bowed out in the group stage. But perhaps the Phnom Penh crowd is accustomed to that. On every face, there's still a hint of pride because Coach Keisuke Honda's team fought with over 200% of their abilities. In the parking lot of nearly a thousand cars, they patiently wait for each other, without honking or rushing.
The Football Atmosphere at Central Square
Home already by 9 p.m.? Seems a bit early, doesn't it? I decided to stroll along Sisowath Quay Boulevard to feel the cool breeze along the Mekong River. Here, we can encounter hundreds of pigeons, gently strolling and waiting for tourists to feed them. The climate of Phnom Penh is somewhat similar to Saigon's, a bit hotter during the day but no need for air conditioning at night, strolling a few kilometers feels oddly serene. For those who like the hustle and bustle, you can visit the Night Market area, a lively place with many Western tourists. Whatever you find on Bui Vien Street, you'll find it here, just on a smaller scale. I've been out all day so I'll just take a quick look around before heading back to sleep, gotta wake up early tomorrow for Siem Reap.
Royal Palace of Cambodia shines brightly at night
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