Buzz
Our team of 10 preparing to descend into the cave.
Dreams and Reality
I learned about Sơn Đoòng Cave several years ago but never dared to imagine that one day I would have the opportunity to step foot in it. Conquering it is a dream shared by many, myself included. Despite its remoteness, I still dream. And that dream within me became a reality a year ago.
I was fortunate to join the Sơn Đoòng expedition in early March 2016. It was a special trip as we were the first all-Vietnamese group. The ten of us came from three regions of Vietnam. Months prior, after a series of emails and a lengthy, detailed health questionnaire, I was accepted to join the expedition. It's strange to think that even after booking a tour, there's no guarantee of going, and it's nerve-wracking. I was afraid of being rejected if I couldn't prove I was fit enough to participate.
Conquering Sơn Đoòng is not just my dream alone.
Eager Beginnings
We gathered from all corners to Đồng Hới and were greeted by Bình, our expedition guide, who took us to Saigon Phong Nha Hotel for check-in. Phong Nha welcomed us with pleasant spring weather, blue skies, white clouds, gentle sunshine, and mild breezes. Nature here is beautiful and serene, with limestone mountains casting shadows on the gentle Son River below. We went boating, cycling, and walking to enjoy the fresh air of a tranquil afternoon - an ambiance that's hard to find in bustling urban areas.
Heading towards the cave entrance.
By 7:00 PM, we had a team meeting where cave expert from the UK, Mr.Adam D. Spillane and Bình introduced us to the upcoming routes and the requirements we had to adhere to throughout the journey. We listened attentively, feeling a mixture of emotions at that moment.
We were a bit worried as we didn't know if we could overcome the over 50 km of forest trails with steep slopes and sharp limestone rocks as warned. Despite mentally and physically preparing for months to conquer Sơn Đoòng, I still felt a bit anxious. But then, when Bình showed us the natural masterpieces bestowed upon Sơn Đoòng, we became excited because we couldn't wait to witness the magnificent beauty inside the world's largest cave.
The sinkhole.
Excited Beginnings
The next morning, at 7:30, we boarded a shuttle bus to the assembly point and began trekking down a long hill. Crossing several streams along the way, we reached Đoòng village – a village of the Bru Vân Kiều ethnic minority living secluded in the deep forest (the name Sơn Đoòng cave was also named after this village).
Crossing several streams on the way.
We paused at the village chief's house, resting and conversing with the family members to learn more about their lives. Sitting inside the house, we faintly heard the sound of teaching. It turned out that behind the village chief's house was a small school, very rudimentary, with two classes, one for grade 2 and one for grade 6, each with 4 students. Teachers trekked from Phong Nha to bring education to the Đoòng village children. After a short break, we resumed our journey, following the Rào Thương stream and trekking for about 2 hours to reach Hang Én.
Crossing the barrier at Đoòng village.
Venturing into the cave - full of excitement.
Next, we reached Hang Én - the world's third-largest cave, after Sơn Đoòng Cave (Vietnam) and Deer Cave (Malaysia). Pausing at the cave entrance, we were equipped with headlamps to venture deeper into the cave due to the darkness inside. We climbed over a small rocky slope, and there it was, a paradise unfolding before our eyes. It was a rather beautiful sandy beach and also the most picturesque campsite of the journey, surrounded by crystal-clear streams. Standing atop the slope, we felt as if we were about to step into a fairyland. We descended to the beach, rested, and had lunch to regain our strength.
Campsite at Hang Én.
After lunch, Adam urged us to continue. We traversed through Hang Én, which was 1.6 km long, and then walked another 5 km to reach the entrance of Sơn Đoòng Cave. No one expected that beneath that small cave mouth lay such a magnificent cave, nearly 9 km long, 150 meters wide, and over 200 meters high, with two giant dolines. The second doline could accommodate two Boeing 747s, and there was also a gigantic wall nearly 80 meters high named the 'Vietnam Wall'.
The back entrance of Hang Én.
We were equipped with safety harnesses and began descending the steep cliffs, approximately 80 meters in total length, to reach Sơn Đoòng Cave. Those with weak hearts might not pass this point, as you couldn't imagine where you would fall if you slipped and your weak hands failed to grasp the ropes securely.
Hold on tight for maximum safety.
Adam had reassured us earlier that if anyone encountered any trouble, he would use the pre-tied rope attached to the safety harnesses around our waists and both of our legs to ensure nothing dangerous happened - yet we were still very anxious. This challenging section at the cave entrance took quite a while because we had to wait for the first person to descend safely before the second person could start climbing down.
Entering the cave.
Next, we continued to traverse the rocky cliffs, then both underground rivers within the cave to reach our first campsite inside. We moved somewhat hastily, with little time to pause and admire the magnificent stalactites, stalagmites inside the cave. Our eyes were constantly fixed on each step because, otherwise, one misstep could leave us forever intertwined with Sơn Đoòng!
Navigating the underground rivers within the cave.
Finally, we arrived at the first campsite inside the cave at 6:00 PM, just in time to catch the faint end-of-day light shining in from the first collapse doline. The first leg of the journey was completed, covering nearly 20 km of diverse terrain, yet we felt no fatigue, still full of energy. After dinner, we gathered around the campfire, sharing stories, enjoying dried squid, dried beef with glasses of banana wine until 10:00 PM before going to sleep. The first night inside the cave - I lay awake reflecting on the challenging journey thus far and contemplating tomorrow's adventure - perhaps some others, like me, but occasionally, amidst the night, I hear a snore from the tent next door…
Campsite by the collapse doline.
Dinner inside the cave.
The second day inside the cave promised to be the most exciting day of the journey. We ventured through a pristine forest area with various types of trees, some reaching heights of 20 - 30 meters. It's said that there were trees as tall as 80 meters before, but they were knocked down by storms. The cave forest is something you can't find anywhere else but in Sơn Đoòng.
The unique forest within the cave.
After traversing this unique forest, we arrived at the main area of the first collapse doline - where two massive stalagmites stand. There, we posed for photos in front of the majestic natural scenery, everyone climbed onto those towering stalagmites to capture a memorable photo for themselves.
The black stalagmites.
Continuing on, we witnessed more rock formations, moss-covered limestone walls, and the sunlight streaming down into the first collapse doline, creating incredibly impressive rays of light. Passing through more rock formations and sparkling multicolored stalactites, we reached the second collapse doline, which also served as our second campsite inside the cave. After a short rest here, we were guided deeper into the cave towards the final destination - the Vietnam Wall.
Our entire group began to approach the 'Vietnam Wall.'
On our way, we saw an entire 'jade carpet' with millions of 'jade pearls' - actually, evenly rounded stones formed by water carrying calcium from the cave ceiling. If not cautioned by the experts and guides beforehand, each of us might have taken a few stones as souvenirs. We only looked, admired, took photos, and reluctantly left the 'jade carpet' to step into the 'Vietnam Wall.'
The 'jade carpet' in the cave.
We had to travel by kayak because the underground river in the cave was quite deep during this season. Kayaking in the cave was also an equally exciting experience. Two people per kayak, we paddled towards the 'Vietnam Wall.' In the darkness, a towering stalagmite (about 80 m high) emerged. The guide instructed us to turn off all lights for about 5 minutes, and indeed, we could see a faint light shining in from outside. It was the second entrance to Son Doong Cave, but very few people use this route because it requires rappelling down a sheer rock without any support - very dangerous.
On the way to the 'Vietnam Wall.'
After admiring the 'Vietnam Wall,' we returned to the dinner camp, lit the campfire, and sang all night long - songs of the past, songs praising the homeland's regions were all resounding in the quiet space of the silent night. In the distance, in the tents of the porters, the pin lights were shining on the poker cards, singing voices, and lively conversations creating a symphony of the late-night mountain forest. Occasionally, the head cook's voice rang out, 'All aboard, folks!...' to remind the entire team to focus on their tasks.
Breakfast by the sinkhole.
Leaving the cave - disappointed
On the third day in the cave, we had to retrace the path we took a day and a half ago to exit Son Doong Cave and return to Hang En. Honestly, our limbs were exhausted by now, but our determination to return to the beautiful camping spot at Hang En remained high. So, with somewhat accustomed feet, we glided over the rocks to reach the cave entrance. A sense of nostalgia arose as soon as we climbed out of the cave, wondering when we would have the chance to enter the cave again?
Our team at the camping spot in Hang En.
The path ahead still presents challenges as we have to return to Hang En for an overnight stay and then climb a high hill the next morning before returning to the civilization. But now, nothing can make us falter anymore because we are proud to have conquered Son Doong with our hearts full of passion, our indomitable spirit, and our tirelessly wandering feet.
We take pride in having conquered Son Doong with our hearts full of passion, our indomitable spirit, and our tirelessly wandering feet.
Stepping out of the cave, we feel overwhelmingly satisfied with what we have just witnessed, yet there's a tinge of sadness as we have to leave behind this enchanting wilderness. Memories of our journey in the cave suddenly emerge: this sinkhole, that stalagmite, the sharp rocky outcrops challenging us, the slips and falls, the encounters with frogs, about 40 times crossing streams, the challenging yoga sessions with the Hanoi girl, even the bleeding feet and almost broken toenails... But we have overcome it all. The enthusiastic support from Adam, the guides, and assistants (Binh, Ho Trung Hieu, Quang Goodly...), from Ho Khanh and the porter team, along with the camaraderie, laughter, singing, and applause have blended into the epic of Son Doong forever etched in the soul of each member of our expedition team.
Our team's Yoga girl.
Reality and Dreaming Again
And now, I dream again! I dream of Son Doong being preserved in its entirety so that nature enthusiasts can continue to marvel at the mystical beauty of the world's largest cave. I dream of one day returning to Son Doong because I know that in the first journey, I haven't explored it all.
And... because for me, once is not enough to fulfill the dream!
Author: Nguyen Thi Mai Trang
* This article participates in the Mytour Golocal program.
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