The enchanting blooming rock road in Hà Giang

Happiness Road is the pathway connecting the majestic mountains, breaking the isolation for the Dong Van rocky plateau.

The captivating stone blossoms route in Hà Giang

Stretching 185 kilometers, starting from Hà Giang city and ending in Meo Vac district, this road has become a destination for many travelers. From around September to November, the road charms visitors with the golden hues of ripening rice fields and now the season of buckwheat flowers.

In November, the flowers transition from pink and red to a heartwarming purple. There's a winding road through the towering mountains shrouded in white clouds, connecting the villages along the 185-kilometer journey. It's called Happiness Road – starting from the center of Hà Giang city and ending at the famous Meo Vac market. During this season, Happiness Road becomes even more romantic as it's the 'season of blooming rocks'.

Only about the first 20 kilometers from the center of Hà Giang province outwards, Happiness Road is quite smooth and flat. You can leisurely drive under the cool sunshine of the approaching winter days. From there on, approximately 90% of its length, Happiness Road is anything but simple. However, those who have set foot here once will surely return due to its allure. We start our journey on Happiness Road from the opposite direction of the buffalo horn market or also known as the backward market in Meo Vac, at kilometer 185, which is also the endpoint of the road.

The Meo Vac market awakens everyone with the sound of footsteps, the chatter of market-goers, and the clattering of hooves and horseshoes on the road. Many have to walk from the night before to reach the market because the villages are far from the center. People make the effort to go to the market, but it only lasts for a brief moment. Nonetheless, every market session, people are bustling with excitement. Sometimes they come to meet friends, drink corn wine, enjoy thang co soup rather than buying anything. Amidst the scorching midday sun, but this season, the Happiness Road is quite chilly. We quickly leave the market session to begin conquering the spectacular pass on this route.

It's the Ma Pi Leng Pass, also known as the Horse's Nose Pass due to its steep terrain. As part of the four great mountain passes of the Northwest, this pass is very treacherous. Going up the pass, motorcycles can only handle gear 1 or 2. There are times when you have to switch down to gear 1 for several kilometers. The surrounding scenery is enchanting, but we dare not admire it and must keep our eyes ahead. Every few tens of meters, there's a sharp turn, careless driving could lead to falling off the pass as if playing. We keep going until we see the houses perched on the edge of the pass corner, knowing we've conquered the peak. It's not in vain to navigate this dangerous stretch of road when nature's grandeur unfolds before us.

The jagged black stone mountain ranges are connected like a gigantic fortress wall. Deep below is the Nho Que River, now just a thin streak like a silk ribbon winding between two mountains. The peak of Ma Pi Leng is at an altitude of about 2,000 meters above sea level.

At noon, the sky is clear with scattered clouds. However, in the morning or afternoon, the pass peak is always shrouded in thick fog, making it difficult for vehicles to move. It's only about 20 kilometers, but the road-opening team had to rappel on rocks for nearly a year to carve out a path about 4 meters wide during the war years. That's when you realize the perilous nature of this route. Indeed, it's a blessing to have a road traversing the rocky plateau of Dong Van.

From here, just a gentle slope further is the famous Dong Van town with its century-old stone-fenced houses, renowned for its weekend markets and ancient market. The market session, the poetic human life, along with the ancient space, is the subject of many literary works, poems, and music by writers.

Continuing along the Happiness Road, we come across the ancient palace of the Meo King Duc Chinh. This ancient house has been developed for tourism. The house is built in a traditional ancient Chinese architectural style. When the road to the rocky region was not as accessible as it is now, this land was like an island. Now, the fields of wild sunflowers have been replaced by rice paddies and other crops. This season, the rocky region blooms with terraced fields of buckwheat flowers in shades of red. Corn is also planted in the rocky crevices.

The remaining part of Happiness Road is less challenging, passing through villages, connecting distant terraced fields. Near the end is the Twin Mountains, rounded like two mounds. Locally known as Nui Doi or Fairy Mountain, the residents here are relatively affluent. Among the rice fields are villas and prosperous establishments. Going up the slope is the Quan Ba Heaven Gate, the highest point in the area. In the past, there was a gate at this summit that separated the two sides.

Nowadays, with the road widened, the Heaven Gate becomes an ideal stop for tourists. Beyond the gate lies a descent into a large pass, which is also the gateway to the Dong Van rocky plateau. From the Heaven Gate, it's another 50 kilometers to the starting point of Happiness Road, kilometer 0 in the center of Hà Giang city.

By Nguyên Bình/Dongvan.gov