Buzz
Quietly residing at the upscale Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa, Chai Pi is clad in the traditional H’mong attire, its dark blue fabric enriched with vibrant embroidered patterns, setting her apart from the crowd of tourists.
Born and bred in Sapa – a highland tourist town in Northern Vietnam, home to diverse ethnic minorities. It's a sought-after retreat for those wishing to escape the hustle of Hanoi for its fresh air and mountain treks.
The Black H’mong Ethnicity
Chai Pi belongs to the Black H’mong, a subgroup within the broader H’mong community, residing in the mountainous regions of China, Laos, Thailand, and Vietnam.
“In the last seven to eight years, almost everyone has transitioned to becoming tour guides. This reflects how Sapa has evolved over the past decade. I hope to also work and earn some money to support my family.”
In 2006, Chai Pi transitioned from farming to becoming a tour guide. She enjoys the job for the opportunity to meet people and learn languages, boasting skills in French, Spanish, Japanese, and particularly English.
Her command of English is impressively fluent for someone who has never had formal lessons, learning entirely through conversations with tourists. Her communication is natural, filled with laughter and explanations.
Village Life
The education system in Lao Chải village is quite outdated, with English not taught at the primary level and very few ethnic minority students proceeding to secondary education. Many girls from ethnic communities don't attend school.
Only boys are educated, while girls remain home to manage agricultural work, sewing, cooking, family care, and other household responsibilities.
En route to the village, we passed a simple wooden house with a dirt floor, home to pigs, ducks, and dogs. Despite its appearance of low maintenance, ethnic girls are constantly engaged in domestic chores. Chai Pi notes, “Daughters tend the fields, while sons inherit the land. Upon marriage, land is divided by the parents for their sons.
Chai Pi's journey feels like a movie soundtrack, leading us through rice paddies, over streams, and into quaint villages. After days of trekking, tourists rest in local homes nestled at the mountain's base, continuing until reaching the main road.
Chai Pi then negotiates the rental of two motorbikes to take us back to the village. Her traditional ethnic dress contrasted against the motorbike rider's jeans and t-shirt strikes me. The most vivid contrast, however, occurs when we pause at an Internet café in Sa Pa.
The First H’mong on Facebook
Immediately logging into her Facebook, Chai Pi's joy is palpable as she checks her inbox and updates from friends.
“I’ve been on Facebook since 2007, the first among the Black H’mong in Sa Pa to do so,” she states with pride. “I love Facebook for the way it lets me see and chat with my friends.”
Chai Pi's job barely leaves room for regular meet-ups with friends. Despite the initial learning curve, the proliferation of Internet cafés in tourist spots has made Facebook a vital tool for staying connected.
Curiously peering over the shoulder of a H’mong girl, I noticed her Facebook page filled with YouTube links and messages in Vietnamese and English from former tourists. This is just one of the ways she connects with the wider world, aside from Facebook, she enjoys movies.
“Home Alone” always brings her laughter. The main character, a young boy, is incredibly endearing. She muses that a small family in a big house must struggle with upkeep. “A big family in a small house, that's more like my own,” she says with a smile.
Staying in touch with tourists helps her keep alive the dream of traveling abroad. I am confident Chai Pi will achieve her dream.
Occasionally, Chai Pi experiences moments as traditional as the outfit she wears: “I've visited Hanoi a few times, but it's too crowded and polluted. Perhaps in the future, I'll live in a stone house, or return to the village to farm and have many children.
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Source: Mytour Travel Guide – (According to CNNGO/Labor)
MytourJune 9, 2015
