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'Who says paradise must be reached by climbing? I was fortunate to be among the first 800 people in the world to explore this underground paradise,' wrote La Ban Luk.
The Astonishing Sights of Sơn Đoòng Captured by Vietnamese Travelers
Let's Talk About the Journey:
Each expedition accommodates a maximum of 10 guests, with a new journey commencing every 5 days. The total trek covers approximately 50km, crossing around 40 small and large streams, including about 20km deep into the cave. The most notable feature is a 500m vertical climb at the end of the journey, which always tests the remaining energy of everyone.
The team always consists of over a dozen porters, two forest rangers, two chefs, one guide, and two British cave experts. Our group comprises 9 Americans and one Vietnamese, that's me. Throughout the journey, I constantly strain to listen to English, my mouth gaping open, occasionally remembering to close it to avoid catching too much wind. So, I always stick close to the guide, speaking Vietnamese whenever necessary.
- Before embarking on the journey, we had to vigorously train our flexibility with trekking exercises and purchase the recommended gear by Oxalis, especially water-resistant and mountain-climbing shoes. It took me a whole week of scouring Saigon to find a pair of ugly yet satisfying shoes. When descending into the cave, I remarked to Mrs. Deb, “I love my shoes.” However, during the initial trek of 10km into the Én cave with my water-resistant shoes riddled with drainage holes, I realized their instability despite their excellent water drainage; they caused discomfort and lacked sufficient grip on the rocks. Upon reaching the entrance of Sơn Đoòng cave, I decided to switch to another pair of shoes that provided better comfort and traction for rock climbing, and I used this pair for the remainder of the journey.
Lesson learned: “Choosing the right footwear is crucial.”
- Throughout the journey, especially inside the cave, we had to walk on a narrow path about 60cm wide and refrain from stepping off it. We were prohibited from touching any stalactites, picking up or moving anything, not even a pebble. This practice aims to preserve every centimeter of the ecosystem and the pristine beauty inside the cave.
Lesson learned: “The awareness of preservation is paramount, and we must adhere to it.”
- At the two dolines, there were two beautiful camping spots where the team could spend the night in tents. Each person's tent and sleeping bag were carried by porters from the starting point to the endpoint. Sanitation was strictly enforced, with everyone advised to frequently sanitize their hands with antiseptic solution due to the high moisture environment prone to bacterial growth. Field latrines were set up at the camping sites, consisting of welded iron frames with seats and receptacles underneath. Two bins of sawdust were placed on either side for disposal (instead of pouring water). These bins would be carried out of the cave by porters for proper disposal. We were only allowed to bathe on the first and last nights in the cave, while the two nights spent inside the cave... well, we made do with alcohol wipes.
Lesson learned: “Everything we bring into the cave must be taken out, including a toothpick or cigarette butt.”
- Over the course of 4 days and nights in the cave, the food was quite nutritious but lacked variety due to limited conditions. The most memorable ritual was ordering breakfast each night, with the menu always featuring 4 items: beef instant noodles, egg instant noodles, beef packet noodles, and egg packet noodles. Following the meal, we gathered around the campfire to 'toast our wet shoes' and share stories over a glass of rice wine. It was a time of camaraderie and laughter.
Lesson learned: “Bring snacks like candies, medications, and some interesting anecdotes you enjoy.”
- Among the group of 10, only 2 individuals had quality cameras, myself included. The American travelers were content with snapping photos on their smartphones. In the end, I became the primary videographer for the group using my old Blackberry phone. Throughout the journey, I carried a Sony A7 with a fixed 35mm lens for its compactness, low-light capabilities, and ease of use. While satisfied with my camera choice, I regretted forgetting to enable RAW mode when taking photos.
Lesson learned: “Prepare a good camera and tripod, don't miss any moment as we may not have the opportunity to return, remember to shoot in RAW mode and capture as much footage as possible with the camera.”
- Witnessing the dedication of the British cave experts, Deb Limbert and Howard Limbert, who are currently residing in Phong Nha, passionately guiding, reminding, and meticulously protecting every centimeter inside the cave, I silently expressed my gratitude towards them. As Vietnamese, we owe them a debt of gratitude and must take action to protect our homeland, especially safeguarding this underground paradise.
If you aspire to have a journey of a lifetime like mine, then don't hesitate, why not? No matter how long the waiting list may be, register now. This paradise has been waiting for you for millions of years, and you only have a few decades to explore it.
As reported by Ngôi Sao
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For reference: Travel guide Mytour
MytourMay 28, 2018
