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Nestled in the mountainous region at the border of Bac Giang, Hai Duong, and Quang Ninh provinces, Phat Son emanates the essence of Vietnamese Buddhism. Apart from Yen Tu Mountain, Phat Son is the sacred place where King Tran Nhan Tong attained enlightenment. Nature has bestowed this mountainous area with majestic landscapes, captivating the hearts of many...
Wanderlust at Phat Son
In contemporary times, there exists a road named after King Tran Nhan Tong that leads straight from the Dong Trieu junction to the historical site of An Sinh Temple. We proceeded along this concrete road, traversing through numerous villages towards the Phat Son mountain. The tranquil Trại Lốc Lake, crystal clear and serene, lies at the foot of the mountain like a colossal mirror reflecting the lush greenery and white clouds. The peaceful scenery further inspired our fascination with this spiritual journey to the land of Buddha.
By the beginning of 2016, the concrete road from Trại Lốc Lake to near Ngọa Vân hermitage was completed, contributing to easing the mountain ascent for eco-tourists combining ecological and spiritual exploration of this region. The journey offers three choices: a day trip to Ngọa Vân hermitage and back.
For a two-day adventure, explore Ngọa Vân hermitage and then visit Hồ Thiên Pagoda nestled amid the hills of Phat Son. If you have the stamina and about 4-5 days to spare, conquer Hồ Thiên Pagoda first, then venture to the western slopes of Phat Son Mountain in Luc Nam District, Son Dong, Bac Giang Province, to fully experience the beauty of this region, where mountains and rivers harmoniously embrace.
Embarking on the exploration of the majestic Phat Son mountain range, our journey up the Ngọa Vân peak reveals enchanting sights. Along the way, a charming stream gracefully meanders, exposing pebbles beneath its crystal-clear surface. Towering ancient trees adorn the untouched wilderness of Phat Son, while moss-covered rocks host blossoming wildflowers throughout the seasons. The Ngọa Vân peak proudly houses the 700-year-old Phat Hoang Pagoda, adding a historical touch to our adventure. We pause at the pagoda to relish a vegetarian meal before eagerly anticipating the challenges that lie ahead.
The trek from Ngọa Vân peak to Hồ Thiên Pagoda offers a fascinating journey with diverse experiences. Passing through mountainous terrain and newly planted forests, we reach expansive green meadows. Despite the distance, the trail to Hồ Thiên is relatively flat and easily traversed. As the dawn breaks, fluffy white clouds dance around the peaks, enhancing the picturesque landscape.
After over 4 hours of hiking from Ngọa Vân to Hồ Thiên, we encounter a rugged expanse of massive rocks, stacked like giant house-sized slabs. Aptly named 'Rock Stack,' this area provides an awe-inspiring panoramic view for those passing through. It's a sight to behold for any adventurer.
Arriving at Hồ Thiên Pagoda, the scenery evokes a sense of melancholy due to its desolate state. The ancient foundation of the once-thriving temple, where Lord Buddha preached, now lies in ruins, leaving only a seven-tiered stone stupa with a white Buddha statue in its alcoves. The Hồ Thiên area also houses a small makeshift temple and a monk named Thái An. Several brick-built tombs, the final resting place of venerable monks, dot the surroundings.
After exploring the rustic Hồ Thiên Pagoda in the midst of the Yên Tử mountains, we decide to spend the night here to rejuvenate for the journey ahead. During discussions, we delve into the origin of the name 'Phat Son,' explained by the monk at Hồ Thiên as simply the mountain of enlightenment. The name has persisted since the time of Emperor Trần Nhân Tông and the meditation masters seeking this mountain for spiritual practice.
The following morning, starting from Hồ Thiên Pagoda, we follow a trail cutting through ancient forests and ascend Sân Trời peak, standing approximately 1,000 meters above sea level. Sân Trời, the peak of Phat Son mountain, serves as the natural border between Quảng Ninh and Bắc Giang provinces.
At the summit of Sân Trời, there lies a spacious flat area, widely referred to as 'Lái Cỏ' by locals who believe its proximity to the sky justifies the name. The Cao Lai, Tày, and Nùng communities here also affectionately call this region 'Lái Cỏ.' Sân Trời boasts large rock formations with whimsical shapes, sparking curiosity and delight. Among them, a rock resembling a giant turtle captures the imagination.
Many seize the opportunity to climb atop the turtle-shaped rock, reclining for a few moments or capturing a 'selfie' to commemorate the unique experience. At the expansive summit of Sân Trời, clouds gracefully glide, and the gentle breeze provides a sense of tranquility, offering complete relaxation.
Descending from the summit of Sân Trời, we enter the pristine virgin forest on the western slope of the Phat Son range, spanning Lục Nam and Sơn Động districts in Bắc Giang province. True to its untouched nature, this forest remains largely unaffected by human impact and tourism trends. After trekking for just over a kilometer on the challenging forest path, we encounter a unique water fissure known as Khe Giót. Tiny water jets shoot out, colliding with the rock wall, creating a fascinating and unconventional beauty. Whether in the rainy or dry season, the water in Khe Giót is always scarce.
According to locals, Khe Giót is the source of the Nước Vàng stream. True to its name, the stream exhibits water with a golden hue, reminiscent of forest honey.
On the journey, we encounter various intriguing sights, from clusters of trees clinging to mountain cliffs to peculiar and captivating rock formations. All of these elements harmonize with the melodies of singing birds and the soothing sound of flowing streams.
The western slope of Phat Son, over 700 years ago, was believed to possess celestial energy, resulting in the emergence of many beautiful young women. To foster good relations with local tribal leaders, officials from the Tran dynasty brought many Dao and Cao Lan ethnic girls to the capital as wives and concubines. Today, exploring this region reveals the striking beauty of young women adorned in traditional attire during festive occasions.
As we traverse Phat Son mountain, the desire to foster tourism grows, emphasizing the importance of preserving natural beauty, safeguarding the ecological environment, and enhancing the livelihoods of local residents. Only through these efforts can Phat Son evolve into an enticing tourist destination – the second sacred place, enduring after Yen Tu...
By Nguyen Huong/Business Saigon
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Reference: Travel guide Mytour
MytourOctober 21, 2016
