
Life in Saigon's Cholon beats to a unique rhythm.
It's truly remarkable! After a long passage of time, the Chinese streets still retain their original cultural charm, architecture, and way of life. It's a rhythm that is distinctly Saigon and uniquely its own. And on an April afternoon, especially after the rain, I felt the nostalgia of that old beauty...
Impressed by the remaining architectural charm
From the intersection of Tan Hung Street with Thuan Kieu, a corner nestled quietly is indescribably serene. The old two or three-story apartment buildings stand side by side, bearing the marks of time, exuding a faint essence of classical architecture. Unlike the towering buildings elsewhere in the city, it's not about tall houses with wide gates, but rather the painted doors or small gardens on balconies... all radiating warmth and vitality. At a glance, the signboards with Chinese characters immediately reveal the location.



...is a unforgettable part of Saigon's memories
Another distinctive feature is the ancient religious architectural works, dignified and solemn, such as temples, shrines, pagodas, communal houses... or also known as assembly halls, built by the Chinese for cultural and spiritual activities. I visited the Tuyet Thanh Assembly Hall, one of the few structures preserving the traditional architectural style of the Chinese, emanating an aura of antiquity and tranquility throughout. Tuyet Thanh Assembly Hall, also known as Ba Cholon Pagoda (located at 710 Nguyen Trai Street, Ward 11, District 5), was built in 1760, with a 'Quoc' shaped structure comprising the front hall, central hall, and rear hall. The roof is adorned with reliefs, mythical creatures such as dragons, unicorns, turtles, phoenixes... with exquisite and delicate motifs.

The ancient religious architectural works in the Chinatown streets

Binh Tay Market has been standing since the 1920s to this day
Located on Thap Muoi Street, District 6, Binh Tay Market is a renowned market with nearly 100 years of history. Despite being designed and constructed using Western techniques, the market complex adorns itself with unique Chinese architectural features. The market gate resembles a tall tower with large clocks on all four sides, a yin-yang tiled roof, and raised dragon motifs...

A corner of Binh Tay Market...
A vastly different lifestyle and culture
Very different? I'm not sure how others might perceive it, but from my perspective, people here are living to their own beat. Fast enough, slow enough, enough to maintain something truly special...

Chinatown has its own rhythm of life...

...that can't be mixed with anywhere else!
For generations, the Chinese have primarily made a living through small-scale manufacturing and trading. Passed down from father to son, from one generation to the next, they never abandon their trades, which is why none of their professions seem to fade away. Along every street, from alley to alley, you'll find shops that have been selling the same item for decades. They work in metalworking, plastics, leather, weaving... They sell spices, traditional medicines, household goods... I've heard it said that they rarely rebuild or relocate their shops because the Chinese are very particular about feng shui; once they've succeeded in business somewhere, they won't change. That's probably why this place still retains its old charm.

Trading is one of the common professions among the Chinese in Saigon

Chinatown has numerous shops selling traditional medicines, spices,...
'Eat in District 5, sleep in District 3', when it comes to culinary culture, Chinatown has long been regarded as a food paradise, with many dishes deeply rooted in traditional Chinese flavors such as: dumplings, steamed buns, duck noodle soup, herbal chicken, Chiu Chow rice, roasted pork, offal stew, pulled noodles...

Chinatown - a nostalgic memory in the search for Saigon's soul

Chinatown is considered one of the culinary paradises to experience in Saigon.
Another equally remarkable aspect is the cultural life. It's a blend of tradition and development, integration. The lifestyle of the Chinese is relatively simple, down-to-earth, with many folk customs and beliefs. They often hold festivals on traditional holidays such as Lunar New Year, Lantern Festival, Dragon Boat Festival, Mid-Autumn Festival... On such occasions, houses, temples, shrines, and pagodas are adorned with lanterns and flowers, covered with red paper symbolizing happiness, luck, and peace.

The Chinese in Saigon lead a humble, simple lifestyle
Amidst the glamorous Saigon, Chinatown remains humble and retains the colors of the passing months!
Author: Vo Van Tan
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