1. The Scent of Dried Squid on Calligraphy Street
As Tết approaches, people flock to the streets to welcome the first rays of the spring sun, dressed in their beautiful áo dài, strolling past Calligraphy Street to seek blessings and good fortune for the New Year. Just the sight of a calligrapher, diligently writing with his fragrant ink, is enough to flood the senses with the spirit of Tết.
In Saigon, during Tết, Pham Ngoc Thach Street becomes a lively hub, drawing thousands of visitors each day seeking to receive calligraphy or simply enjoy the festive atmosphere. Soon, everyone will come together to celebrate the joy of Tết, and even now, walking down the street, you can already sense the many scents of the holiday. How peaceful it feels.
Every year, as Tết nears, we see elderly calligraphers carefully grinding their ink, crafting each stroke on the busy streets. The scene, so uniquely tied to Tết, becomes a familiar sight we look forward to. The scent of the ink, the presence of the calligrapher, signals that Tết is near. People also seek out calligraphy for good luck, hoping for a prosperous and peaceful year ahead.
Calligraphy Street During Tết
The Scent of Dried Squid on Calligraphy Street
2. The Fragrance of Spring Flowers
As Tết arrives, every household displays potted flowers outside and keeps vases inside to welcome the festive spirit. The sight of budding peach flowers, the golden fruit of kumquat trees, and the yellow apricot blossoms tell everyone that Tết is near.
Buying flowers for Tết and visiting the flower markets in the days leading up to the holiday has become a tradition for everyone. People often gather to buy the freshest flowers to decorate their homes for the New Year. That's why, just by smelling the fragrance of spring flowers, we know Tết is just around the corner.
Vibrant Spring Flowers During Tết
The Fragrance of Spring Flowers
3. The Aroma of Herb Leaves in the Last Afternoon of the Year
The herb plants, once low and sparse, now grow high, their leaves turning a deep green. When tiny blossoms start to appear and tiny green fruits begin to glisten on the branches, it signals that Tết is near. The aroma of these herb leaves will bring Tết to every home.
In my family, it has been a tradition to bathe in herb leaves every year on the afternoon of the 30th day of Tết. Amidst the Tết atmosphere, with the scent of incense and freshly steamed bánh chưng filling the air, the fragrance from the herb bath is unmistakable. Soaking in the herb bath brings peace, cleansing away the dust, worries, and sadness. The scent lingers in your hair, fingers, and shoulders, carrying through until midnight. No perfume by Kenzo, Chanel, or Dior could ever compare.
The Fragrance of Herb Leaves
The Aroma of Herb Leaves on the Last Afternoon of the Year
4. The Scent of Firecrackers: An Unforgettable Fragrance
Back in the days when firecrackers were still legal in Vietnam, people would exchange gifts wrapped in bundles of Tết firecrackers, neatly arranged red crackers, and boxes filled with large and small firecrackers, much like carefully tied hair braids. Children would play with tiny firecrackers, thrilled by their popping sounds. Tết used to have the smell of firecrackers. Every time a loud bang echoed from a nearby house, children would rush outside to listen to the crackling sounds, their hearts racing with excitement. The smoke from the firecrackers would fill the air, lingering for a long time, leaving behind a nostalgic and unforgettable scent.
The Scent of Firecrackers
The Scent of Firecrackers: An Unforgettable Aroma
5. The Scent of Burning Incense Paper
The smell of incense paper burning in offerings to the gods on New Year's Eve lingers in the air, mixing with the scent of burning matches. Watching the embers slowly fade in the golden incense burner, one can't help but feel a sense of wistfulness for the fleeting moments, much like the bittersweet feeling after witnessing the dazzling fireworks display at midnight. Children, however, don't share this sentiment. Only adults, especially those in midlife, experience a fleeting sense of melancholy as they move into the new year, aging another year, burdened by life's challenges. Yet, seeing the children in the house growing another year older brings a quiet joy and optimism for the future.
The Scent of Burning Incense Paper
The Scent of Burning Incense Paper
6. The Fragrance of Pomelo Blossoms in the Spring Breeze
Touching the pomelo blossom is like touching the very essence of Tết. The fragrance of the pomelo flower is delicate, fresh, and soothing, a gentle reminder that Tết is approaching. The scent of the pomelo, carried on the spring breeze, evokes memories of family gatherings around the five-fruit tray, sharing stories of the past year. As the subtle fragrance of the pomelo mingles with the spring air, it feels as though Tết is slowly arriving once again.
The Fragrance of Pomelo Blossoms in the Spring Breeze
The Fragrance of Pomelo Blossoms in the Spring Breeze
7. The Scent of Dried Bamboo Shoots and Pickled Onions
As Tết approaches, many grandmothers and mothers head to the market to buy dried bamboo shoots, which they soak in water, filling the house with a distinct earthy scent. On New Year's Eve, this dried bamboo shoot soup with simmered pork ribs will be the centerpiece of the family's dinner. The scent of Tết is also carried by the pickled onions drying in the sun. No Tết is complete without a bowl of pickled onions or pickled leeks—these tangy delights are a staple of the season. When you see families drying leeks in their front yards, you know Tết is right around the corner. The sharp scent of pickled onions, pickled leeks, and radishes fills the air, mingling with the tang of fresh cucumber. These are the cherished smells of Vietnamese Tết.
The Scent of Dried Bamboo Shoots and Pickled Onions
The Fragrance of Dried Bamboo Shoots and Pickled Onions
8. The Fragrance of Incense
The scent of incense is not only present during Tết, but during this time of year, the fragrance of burning incense fills the air, creating an almost magnetic pull that makes people yearn to be home, gathered with family. On Tết, the sight of parents and grandparents lighting incense for ancestors is common, and wherever you go, you can catch a whiff of incense drifting in the breeze. It's the unmistakable scent of Tết. The fragrance of incense during Tết is delicate, mixing with the rising smoke in the warm, peaceful shrine. It creates a reflective moment, connecting the present with past generations, praying for a peaceful year ahead, and reminding us of those who have passed. Even though some are far away, their presence is felt in the ever-lasting scent of Tết in our hearts.
Incense Smoke Rising
The Fragrance of Incense
9. The Scent of Smoke from the Bánh Chưng and Bánh Tét Cooking
Tết would never be complete without the iconic bánh chưng and bánh tét. Neither would be the same without the sharp, smoky aroma rising from the kitchen as the bánh are being cooked in the days leading up to the holiday. On the chilly last days of the year, the family gathers around the fire, tending the pots of bánh chưng and bánh tét, while grandmother whispers old stories to the grandchildren and mother roasts sweet potatoes and corn for the children. The simple act of making bánh chưng and bánh tét brings warmth and closeness to the family, solidifying the ties of Vietnamese heritage.
The smell of wood burning in the stove on the 27th or 28th of Tết, the scent of freshly cooked bánh chưng being lifted from the pot, fills the air. In the past, neighborhoods would come together to share in the slaughter of pigs for the holiday feast, wrapping bánh chưng with love. As the adults made the bánh, the children would run around outside, eager to watch. The leftover dong leaves, glutinous rice, and spare meat would be used to make little bánh chưng for the children.
Some have sat by the fire late at night, helping their mothers watch the bánh chưng boil on cold winter nights, breathing in the intoxicating fragrance of the bánh. Others recall the days of going to the village to choose the best bánh chưng, with the scent of freshly steamed rice and savory filling creating the perfect festive atmosphere. The smell of bánh chưng in the spring air is enough to bring the full essence of Tết rushing back, lingering in the heart as if it never left. The green bánh chưng, with its delicate rice aroma and savory filling, makes Tết feel whole and complete.
Bánh Chưng and Bánh Tét on Tết
The Aroma of Bánh Chưng and Bánh Tét Cooking
10. The Fragrance of Candied Fruits
Among the many fragrances that define traditional Tết, candied fruits are perhaps the most iconic and familiar. From the young to the elderly, everyone associates Tết with colorful trays of candy and fruit preserves that are meticulously arranged on the family altar or serving table. As Tết approaches, homes and streets fill with the sweet scent of candied fruits, as people rush to prepare these traditional treats to gift loved ones or to enjoy during the holiday.
In the days leading up to Tết, it’s common to see vendors selling candies and preserved fruits, which fill the air with a festive energy. The bustling crowds and lively chatter on every street corner are complemented by the sweet aroma of candied fruits carried on the spring breeze, signaling the arrival of Tết.
Candied fruits, such as sweet and tangy preserved kumquat, spicy ginger candy, and the attractive coconut candy, are not just treats but meaningful gifts, embodying the essence of a complete, joyful Tết celebration. Families gather to enjoy these treats, sipping hot tea and reminiscing about old stories. This is when bonds grow stronger, and love fills the air.
The smell of ginger candy drifting through the wind, the sweet fragrance of coconut, the mild sweetness of pumpkin preserves, or the delicate aroma of preserved kumquats are all part of the experience. The artisanal, handmade preparation of these candies releases an indescribable fragrance, deeply connected to the Tết traditions. Just walking down the street, one can feel the rhythm of spring and the anticipation of Tết filling the heart. All you need is to catch a whiff of these candies, and you’ll be reminded of the warmth and togetherness of Tết with family at home.
Candied Fruits Adding to the Festive Atmosphere of Tết
The Fragrance of Candied Fruits