In my memories, every mid-December, the villages and hamlets, from top to bottom, buzz with the preparation of building stoves, sun-drying firewood, washing mortar and pestle, and buying new mats to get ready for making rice cakes.

Nowadays, life has changed, and the younger generation no longer hears the rhythmic sound of the mortar pounding in the village as spring approaches. However, that magical sound still echoes in my soul, in my consciousness since childhood.
Recalling Past Tets
Back when I used to carry my school bag, every Tet, my parents would make traditional rice cakes. As soon as the rooster crowed, my mom would wake up to cook the sticky rice for the cakes. Under the bright gas light, my dad with the pestle, and my mom handling the rice, both busy but in perfect harmony. The pounding sound varied, sometimes strong, sometimes gentle, depending on the hands of the one pounding and the one adding water.
When the rhythmic sound of pounding echoed in the neighborhood, young girls would gather, lighting coconut leaf torches, eagerly going to the neighbor's house to help in the cake-making process.
The process of rolling the cakes is truly lively, everyone is engaged in their task, the rhythm is smooth and efficient. A nimble girl skillfully molds the dough, cuts it, and forms each piece before placing it on banana leaves coated with wax or the yolk of a chicken egg. Elder women sit in rows, using bamboo tubes, turning the banana leaf with one hand, skillfully rolling the dough with the other, ensuring it's even and round like a plate, then passing it to the young men who take it outside to dry on mats in long rows.
When the cakes are partially dry, they are taken and dipped into a pot of hot sugar water, then left to dry again.
Every cake-making season is a chance for young men and women in the village to come together, make acquaintances, express affection, and seek matchmakers to potentially become couples the following year. Some girls are chosen by the elders to be daughters-in-law due to their skilled hands and charming eloquence.


Rediscovering a bit of the old fragrance
For several years now, as Tet approaches, the City Museum of Can Tho organizes the 'Colors of Spring in the Garden' festival, inviting artisans to showcase various traditional cakes, including many types of traditional Tet cakes like rice cakes, rice paper cakes, and cylindrical glutinous rice cakes.
Observing the elder women sitting, rolling traditional rice cakes, I sense that they are the last ones truly devoted to this ancient cake. This delicately crafted and meticulous cake requires a considerable amount of time and effort, leading many rural folks to abandon the mortar and pestle over the past thirty years. Only a few remain attached to the past, willing to 'rekindle the old fragrance,' taking the time to make a few cakes to offer to their ancestors and gift to loved ones.
Currently, while some places like Cho Moi, Tien Giang, still produce rice cakes, they are not the traditional kind but rather ones made through a simpler process, notably using machines instead of hand pounding. The quality of present-day rice cakes cannot compare to the traditional ones.
In the past, to achieve a fragrant, crispy, and fluffy cake, makers had to carefully select sticky rice, cook it to make sticky rice cakes, and manually pound it with smooth rhythmic motions to create a high-quality cake.


As time has passed, the old gives way to the new, and the image of the rice cake gradually fades with the years. Fortunately, in recent years, every Tet, the Investment Promotion and Trade – Tourism Promotion Center of Can Tho City organizes the 'Southern Folk Cake Festival' to preserve and promote traditional cakes, including rice cakes.
Thanks to this event, today's younger generation can experience the rhythmic sound of cake pounding in the village and witness elders rolling or baking rice cakes by the flickering fire. These are cherished, nostalgic images that evoke deep emotions for the traditional Tet in their homeland.
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Source: Mytour Travel Guide – According to Tuoi Tre (Youth) Newspaper
MytourNovember 18, 2015