Buzz
I arrived in Laos on a July day, skeptical after hearing my friend enthusiastically say, 'Go to Laos, it's fantastic! You can travel and escape the scorching heat of our Central region!' Carrying my backpack, I hit the road, still dubious about its claims. After a bumpy half-day journey, swaying along the winding roads of the Central Highlands, I finally reached the border.
'Truong Son to the east, Truong Son to the west. One side ablaze with sun, the other shrouded in rain. You extend your arm, you spread your hands, unable to dispel the clouds, unable to cover me...'
At Bo Y border gate (Kon Tum), the sun was still shining fiercely.
The winding road guides travelers deeper into your country's territory. A deep green hue from the majestic mountains cascades down. Layers of vast forests, sturdy ancient tree trunks amidst hills and mountains, and tall trees reaching for the sky; all make humans feel small in the face of nature's grandeur. Amidst that vast greenery are gentle pink climbing vines on old trees, dreamy purple lily flowers along the roadside, and butterflies fluttering in a breezy summer afternoon. The winding road suddenly becomes soft, meandering around treacherous mountain slopes, twisting and turning under the dense forest canopy. A few raindrops start to cross paths with the oncoming vehicle. I press my face against the car window, feeling the cool mist blowing onto my face and starting to find the journey to the land of Champa fascinating.
The most bustling place in the border province of Attapeu in this Southern Laos region is the district of Samakhixay. When the vehicle arrives, the sky has already darkened, only the sound of the wind rustling through the rows of trees welcomes the unfamiliar guest. This season, Attapeu is beginning to experience rain. Rarely do you see the moonlight through the cloudy night sky. The moon on a rainy night tries to emit faint rays to dispel the shadow of clouds. However, the small light of the moon is not intact, making people feel strangely warm. The silver moon shines on the trees, sparkles in each drop of water, brimming with the romantic and poetic atmosphere it inherently possesses.
The cool morning air at the Xekong Bridge, crossing the river of the same name. The rain from the previous night, along with the angry sediment, seems to have completely washed away, welcoming the fresh morning sunlight and cool space after the rain.
Early morning at the market is extremely vibrant. The market is located under the Xekong Bridge, gathering all day long. The small stalls are closely packed, the colorful umbrellas look delightful from above. Inside the market, the early morning green vegetables, freshly caught fish from the river, are displayed abundantly. The seller's inviting voice, the bargaining voices, the laughter of joy when buying delicious items, no different from the early markets in Vietnam. Suddenly, I crave Vietnamese food, even though I just left home yesterday. It's strange, at home, I like to eat out, but when I travel, I yearn for a family meal.
At the market, I love wandering around the vegetable stalls, inhaling the fresh scent of newly-cut greens. The climate and soil here are somewhat similar, so you can find all the familiar greens like morning glory, water spinach, beans, and eggplants, just like in Vietnam. Photo: Thanh Binh
The lively atmosphere of the early market. Photo: Thanh Binh
The long, sparsely populated road of the town leads my feet to the meditation gate. Wat Luang Temple, a large temple in Samakhixay, immediately captivated me. The architectural style of the temple with intricate towers, grandeur, delicate patterns, and vibrant colors. The dominant colors of red and gold shine in the slanting evening light, harmoniously blended on every line. The distinctive features of the Lao people are clearly reflected in the facial features and costumes of the deity statues. Perhaps, Buddhism has been localized here to become close to the people and blend with the local culture.
I am confident that anyone who has been to the Land of a Million Elephants, if they haven't visited the ancient temples, not enchanted under the Champaka flowers, not bowed before the mystical Buddha statues, consider that you have overlooked the most characteristic cultural aspect of the Lao people.
The area of memorial stupas for the deceased Buddhists is situated in one corner of the temple. Each stupa is intricately designed, adorned with meticulous craftsmanship, and comes in various styles and sizes. Erecting memorial stupas within the temple grounds is a distinctive feature in the architecture of Buddhist temples in Laos. Photo: Thanh Binh
The entire temple shines brightly in the golden sunlight. Photo: Thanh Binh
Sloping roofs are prevalent in many temples in Laos. It is said that the curving lines on the patterns are modeled after the gracefully curved hands of Lao girls in the Lam Vong dance. Photo: Thanh Binh
The afternoon light casts a brilliant glow on the gracefully curved temple roof. Sunlight sparkles on every intricate pattern, on each ancient statue, and on the lush green grass. Intertwined within those vibrant colors is the pure white shade of Champaka flowers, known in Vietnam as lotus flowers, the national flower of the Land of a Million Elephants. The temple grounds are adorned with various types of these trees – from newly planted saplings to aged, moss-covered, and gnarled trunks. The serene color of the flowers serves as a reminder for every soul to be tranquil upon entering the meditation gate.
As the national flower, Champaka flowers grace many occasions in Laos. Here, you can witness Lao girls in splendid suea mai and sinh mai Lao attire, adorned with gracefully draped scarves, hair adorned with delicate white Champaka flowers, embellishing a touch of charming gold. In traditional Lao attire, 'suea mai' refers to the top, 'sinh mai Lao' is the name for the long female skirt, and 'pha bieng' is the shoulder wrap. Champaka flowers are also threaded into garlands to be presented to esteemed guests. These flowers decorate ceremonial trays (known as pha khuan in Lao) during ritual occasions or other festive days.
'Beautiful Champaka flowers, for countless nights and days, their fragrance still lingers, filling the air' (Excerpt from the song 'Hoa Champaka' - Lao folk song).
A Vietnamese girl in Laos. Photo: Thanh Binh
Here, early in the morning, you might witness the almsgiving ceremony (Tak Bat). Monks walk along the streets, receiving alms from the people. This provides the sole meal for the monks during the day. Additionally, the offerings are shared with the poor and animals in the temple. In the spirit of Theravada Buddhism, this practice helps monks understand the lives of the people, generates merit for the almsgivers, and seeks blessings for them each day.
The monks prepare for the early morning almsgiving journey, all of them walking barefoot.
From the young to the elderly, everyone is deeply respectful when offering alms. This is a religious activity, so if you wish to capture images, it must be done with utmost discretion, avoiding close contact, and it's best to observe from a distance.
The brief time of the journey doesn't allow me to linger in Attapeu for long. Farewell, Attapeu, I continue my journey. But I won't say goodbye, nor will I say 'See you again,' simply 'Sabaidee Attapeu.' I want to 'Hello' to this land as if I'm arriving, not leaving. And because I hope to return here one day soon, to experience the rejuvenation of Attapeu once more!
Author: Le Viet An
*Article participating in the Mytour Goglobal program
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