Buzz
Little did Mak know, as he set off for war under the decree of the court, that it would be the last time he laid eyes on his beloved wife.
Unveiling the Mystery Behind the Haunted Bride Shrine in the Heart of Bangkok
If you ever find yourself in Bangkok, the name Sukhumvit is likely to ring a bell. Being one of the longest roads in Thailand, Sukhumvit is associated with a plethora of dining spots, tourist attractions, shopping centers, luxurious hotels, and vibrant bars and nightclubs. Nestled amidst this hustle and bustle lies a small shrine tucked under the shade of ancient Bodhi trees, adorned with images of a woman, beautiful yet with a hint of melancholy. That woman is Mae Nak Phra Khanong, or simply Nak of the Phra Khanong district.
Legend Has It
Nak is a famous female ghost in Thai folklore, based on historical events dating back to the reign of King Rama IV.
During her lifetime, Nak possessed beauty that surpassed many girls in the region. She lived by the banks of the Phra Khanong canal, married to Mak. While Nak was pregnant, the court summoned Mak along with many other men from the area to the battlefield. Unbeknownst to him, the day he left for war would also be the last time he saw his wife alive.
Unfortunately, Nak passed away during childbirth, and no one could save the baby. At that time, her husband was in a hospital in central Bangkok, unaware of the tragedy at home. However, upon his return, Mak still found his wife and child waiting, oblivious to any suspicion. Neighbors tried to warn him that he was living with ghosts, but Nak always found ways to dispel their efforts.
One day, while Nak was making nam phrik (a type of Thai dipping sauce), she accidentally dropped a lemon outside the house. She hurriedly reached out from the kitchen to grab the lemon. Mak witnessed it all, his face paling as he realized the person he had been living with for so long wasn't his wife, yet he tried to remain composed.
That night, Mak softly told his wife that he needed to go out to use the bathroom, then disappeared into the darkness.
Discovering that her husband had fled, Nak immediately followed. Mak saw his wife's ghost chasing after him and quickly took refuge under a giant needlewood tree – folklore says souls fear the thorns of this tree. Afterwards, Mak ran into the nearby Wat Mahabut temple, a sacred place where no ghost could intrude.
In her fury, Nak vented her anger on the people of the Phra Khanong area for driving her husband away. A sorcerer was summoned to subdue Nak's spirit, imprisoning it in a baked clay jar and releasing it into the canal.
The concluding part of this oral tradition has many variations. Some say, an elderly couple who recently moved to the Phra Khanong area accidentally freed Nak's spirit when they found the jar. Others claim it was the fishermen.
However, the renowned monk Somdet Phra Buddhacarya (1788-1872) under the Chakri dynasty, Kingdom of Siam, managed to subdue Nak. The monk blew Nak's spirit into a skull fragment placed on her forehead and bound it with a belt. Rumors suggest that this belt was later kept by Prince Abhakara Kiartivongse (1880-1923) of the Kingdom of Siam.
In another version of this legend, Thai people believe that the monk convinced Nak that she would reunite with her husband in the afterlife, so she willingly let go of her earthly ties for salvation.
Seeking Answers
Thai historian Anek Nawikamul studied the legend of Nak and discovered an article in the Siam Praphet newspaper, by K.S.R. Kularb, published on 10/3/1899. Kularb mentioned that the legend of Nak was based on the life of Amdaeng Nak, the daughter of Phra Khanong's district officer – Khun Si.
Amdaeng Nak also passed away while pregnant with her second child. Her son feared that his father would remarry, and the inheritance would be shared with the stepmother, so he fabricated a ghost story. He dressed as a woman and threw stones at passing boats, convincing everyone that Nak's ghost had done so. Kularb also stated that Nak's husband's name was Chum, not Mak.
No one can verify whether Amdaeng Nak is the same Nak of Phra Khanong, as the records do not align with the popular folklore in Thailand.
More Than Just a Legend
Nak's story has spread widely in Thai society due to her sacrifice and devotion to her husband. This legend has been adapted into numerous films, TV series, cartoons, comics, and newspapers from 1959 to the present day. The most recent ones include the horror-comedy film Pee Mak 2013 (Ghost Wife) and Make Me Shudder 2 (Ghost Bride) 2014.
The shrine of Nak now sits within Wat Mahabut temple, at 77 Sukhumvit Road. A statue of Nak and her newborn child is placed in the shrine, and within the worship area lies the mummified remains of an infant.
Most visitors come to pray for themselves or for their husbands to be exempt from military service. People often wrap colorful silk ribbons around the Bodhi tree in the temple grounds for blessings, offer fruits, floral wreaths, lotus flowers, and light candles in the main hall. Portraits of Nak and toys are placed in the shrine, while silk dresses are hung behind the statue of Nak. Visitors also release fish, turtles, etc., into the Phra Khanong canal about 100 meters away. Here, there are stalls selling offerings for locals and tourists.
From the BTS On Nut station, tourists can walk north on On Nut Road and continue for another 10 minutes to reach Wat Mahabut temple.
Source: Pham Huyen/Vnexpress
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Reference: Travel Handbook Mytour
MytourApril 2, 2018
