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Conquering 11 km to reach Kho Muong village in Thanh Hoa took us 3 hours. Nestled deep in the valley, we relished a delightful meal and listened to stories that will forever stay etched in our memories.
Discovering Thanh Hoa: A Bold and Unforgettable Journey to Pu Luong
Departing from Hanoi at 5:30 am, we took the Thang Long Avenue, heading to Lung Van commune, Tan Lac, Hoa Binh. The road ascended gradually with unnamed slopes. The beautiful sunny weather prompted us to take breaks by the stream and capture photos.
The scenery along the road lacks towering mountains or jagged rocks like Ha Giang. Instead, an expansive field of corn stretches as far as the eye can see, cultivated from the hilltops and mountain slopes.
Unlike many who usually take the Mai Chau, Hoa Binh route, we veered off onto an unmapped road to reach the Pu Luong Nature Reserve in Ba Thuoc, Thanh Hoa. The wide concrete road accommodates passing buses but slopes down in a winding fashion, giving the sensation of both the vehicle and passengers plunging into the abyss.
This is a section of a rugged road carved into the cliff, with no ground support on the mountain side and a steep drop on the other. During sunny days, it's manageable, but in the rainy season, rocks and mud from the mountain can pose a serious danger to the road below.
By midday, we entered the territory of Ba Thước district, and it took us some time to find a local resident selling snacks to take a break. We inquired about the route to Hiêu village to spend the night. The path to the village is a soft dirt road crossing numerous streams, with water wheels turning slowly in the distance. We reached Hiêu village around mid-afternoon, just as the sun was fading, and a light rain began to fall.
Near our stilt house was a waterfall. Although not very high, the water cascaded in multiple low tiers. Those in good shape could hike upstream to explore the source. If you fancy a waterfall bath, follow the beaten path alongside the water. As you descend, the waterfall widens, becoming clearer and more expansive.
The late afternoon rain brought a cooler air. Our stilt house leaned against a mountain range, overlooking paddy fields and the village below. The sunset only briefly peeked through before vanishing completely, but the tranquil and peaceful atmosphere made everyone want to sit indefinitely under the porch.
In the faint light of the next morning, we woke up to visit the Phố Đoàn market. The market only convenes on Thursdays and Sundays, attracting people from all around for eating, trading, and lively socializing. After a morning of exploration, buying bananas, melons, boiled peanuts, local specialties, fresh bamboo shoots, and having a breakfast of rice cakes, spring rolls, and sticky rice donuts, we continued our journey to Kho Mường village.
The village was about 11 km from the market, and the challenging road took us three hours to navigate. Turning onto a narrow path, traversing countless slopes, the gravel road stretched out before us. We took a break at the mountain ridge, looking across the deep valley at National Highway 15C. The stilted houses dotting the landscape and the terraced fields were so captivating that we forgot all about fatigue.
The final stretch to Kho Mường is nothing short of spine-chilling. A road about 70cm wide, thinly paved with concrete, is so steep that the front of the vehicle seems to bow down; a slight deviation and both the vehicle and occupants could tumble into the abyss. After navigating these nerve-wracking moments behind the wheel, we arrived at a place that felt a bit underwhelming. The scenery, Kho Mường's fields situated in a deep valley surrounded by covered hills, didn't stand out too much.
Our lunch spot was at the former village chief's house, now transformed into a homestay for the local community. Before the meal, everyone gathered to visit Kho Mường Cave, about a kilometer away. The cave had a high ceiling, was incredibly spacious, and had significant formations of stalactites hanging down from the ceiling to colossal limestone rocks inside.
Returning to the stilt house for lunch brought sheer joy. Our group was seated by the window, with a refreshing breeze. Outside, hung a cage with a melodious hill myna. Every time it playfully chirped, laughter echoed from all who heard it.
The spread featured fried chicken, marinated pork grilled with honey, sautéed purple mustard greens, a refreshing plate of boiled young bamboo shoots, a bowl of morning glory soup, and a plate of salted kohlrabi. The wind blowing across the fields added a cool touch, and after the meal, everyone rolled over for an impromptu nap, forgetting the way back.
Awakening from the midday nap, conversing with the host under the porch, we heard tales of the Pù Luông land, a mountain peak over 1,700 meters high where the French colonialists built an airstrip to escape. Rarely known historical stories and the harsh weather conditions in this area unfolded before us.
The journey back posed more challenges. After lunch, our vehicle suffered a flat tire, and we had to locate the only mechanic in the village, waiting for the repair to take an extra hour. Kho Mường village had three exits, but only one road was passable by motorcycle, forcing us to retrace the horrifying incline we conquered in the morning.
Just hitting the main road, a torrential downpour forced everyone to halt by the roadside, seeking refuge and donning raincoats to continue, as we were running late according to the plan. Riding under the stinging rain, thunder roaring in our ears, the sensation was both crazy and exhilarating, a mix of fear and excitement.
When the rain finally ceased, dusk fell abruptly. We raced relentlessly into the night, overtaking under the glow of headlights from reckless trucks and speeding buses. There were stretches, several kilometers long, with no roadside lights. I navigated intuitively, eyes fixed ahead, counting each milestone on the journey back to Hanoi. It was the riskiest stretch I've ever traveled.
A two-day trip, yet it left indelible memories. Inexplicable emotions confronted nature and the people of Pù Luông, savoring delicious local specialties, and listening to stories that one can truly appreciate only by being there.
As per Vnexpress
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Reference: Travel guide from Mytour
MytourJuly 15, 2016
