Buzz
It wasn't a flamboyant festival season with high-heeled shoes and elaborate costumes; instead, we embarked on a 'change of scene' with a nighttime boat journey and a quaint, rustic corner at Yen stream - Huong Pagoda.
Exploring the tranquil charm of Yen stream near Hanoi.
Less than 40km from downtown Hanoi, but driving on Highway 21B towards Huong Pagoda (Huong Son commune, My Duc district) was quite a challenging journey. Therefore, we arrived late for our appointment with Mrs. Vinh - Hang, the owner of one of the rare houses located right next to Hoi Bridge, Yen stream, even after an hour.
Yen stream on the verge of the full moon night
Having previously taken a boat ride on Yen stream at dusk, I didn't feel afraid when arriving at Long Van Pagoda - Cay Khe Jetty at 7 pm.
On the thirteenth night, the moon casts a shimmering glow across the sky, reflecting upon the water, illuminating the silent houses with a faint, eerie glow from electric lanterns. The boats rest on the shore as if in a deep slumber. My companion softly recites a verse from 'The Tale of Kieu' by Nguyen Du, 'How many rabbit holes, wicked and forsaken/ Alas, the graves ownerless, who would pay a visit.' It sends a shiver down my spine.
Fortunately, at that moment, Uncle Vinh arrives in his boat.
The boat glides slowly along the clear stream, even in the night, using a small flashlight to illuminate the moss clearly. On both sides, the dark mountain peaks are silhouetted against the sky, the trees and grass are calm, with a gentle breeze, the sound of oars dipping into the water.
My eyes have adjusted to the darkness, and now the moonlight appears dreamlike, draping over everything like a silver cloak. On either side of the stream are ponds of lotus flowers emitting a faint fragrance. Occasionally, my friend sings a few lines to dispel the silence, mingling with the chirping of insects and the echoing croaks of frogs from the fields.
Like a journey on a drifting boat.
After 20 minutes or so, we reach the foot of Hoi Bridge. From here, there is a small stream leading to Uncle Vinh and Auntie Hang's house, a stream well-known among young Hanoians for its abundance of water mimosa flowers. In autumn, it becomes a naturally beautiful studio for timeless photoshoots.
A few days before the call, Mrs. Hang mentioned how beautiful it is with water mimosa blossoming in the summer. Not to mention, all around the house are ponds full of lotus flowers. Despite nearing the end of the season, the flowers are still abundant and fragrant. Wanting to taste lotus seeds, admire lotus flowers, and dig up lotus roots after a few scorching days is a must.
The boat navigates through the house gate, Uncle Vinh uses a headlamp to illuminate the water mimosa flowers starting to bloom along the bank, faintly blending with the lotus, and then steers the boat towards the bamboo bridge over the stream.
“Guests in awe amidst a dreamlike realm”
A humble dinner with delicious sour soup duck, boiled pumpkin, fried eggs with onions, and a cup of black bean tea cooked with lotus seeds to quench the thirst. The open-air bathroom amidst the lychee garden, next to a few hammocks where Uncle Vinh jokes about occasionally lying down to sleep all night without 'getting bitten by mosquitoes,' probably because he's used to them. He laughs heartily, while Mrs. Hang keeps pondering why the whole group is arriving late...
Uncle Vinh and Auntie Hang have been running this business for many years. Around the house are several lotus ponds, and the stream in front of the door releases water mimosa flowers to create a tourist area, charging fees for photography, rowing boats, and providing other services. They also raise a flock of chickens, a flock of ducks, set traps for crabs, plant some vegetable patches, and build a brick-paved platform for guests to stay overnight when needed.
The garden is clean and tidy, piles of dried leaves show that the homeowners always take care and tidy up diligently. Most of the guests are photographers, wanting to capture the picturesque moments of Huong Pagoda, or young men and women who want to have a photoshoot amidst the water mimosa season.
Due to the scorching summer heat, there are fewer visitors, and we were considering building a raised wooden house for tourism, but we're concerned because this area occasionally floods. In some years, the water nearly reaches the loft, and even the chicken coop has to be elevated with ramps. If the rooms flood, the chickens automatically climb up high to roost.
Late at night, the whole group gathers at the bamboo bridge to admire the moon. The night by the stream is tranquil, with water mimosa blooming at our feet, fireflies flickering among the bushes, and the moon occasionally obscured by clouds, creating a mystical atmosphere.
At this moment, Huong Son's scenery, as poeticized by Chu Manh Trinh, emerges as the perfect seasoning for the upcoming full moon night feast:
'Behold the mountains, the waters, the clouds
The first cave queries if this is it?
Rabbits frolic, birds offer fruits in worship
Gently, the whispers of Yen creek echo,
A faint sound of a pestle drifts by the ear,
Guests startle, lost in a realm of dreams.
Summer at the Huong Pagoda
Before the scheduled bell rings, Aunt and Uncle are already urging everyone to rise and welcome the dawn. Simultaneously, the chickens and ducks in the garden cheerfully greet the new day.
Stepping out onto the front yard, I now clearly see on both sides are two ponds brimming with lotus flowers, their fragrance gently wafting. Pink lotus buds peek out from amidst the leaves, while in the distance, there are mountains, a smoky sky, and clouds seemingly soaked with dew.
Stepping onto the bamboo bridge, I take in the sight of a long strip of glistening stream adorned with blooming water mimosa, warm and serene. Closing my eyes for a short meditation, I hear Uncle Vinh asking if anyone wants to go pick lotus with him.
As the pond is shallow, Uncle wraps his feet in mud-resistant sandals to gather flowers for arrangements, pluck lotus seeds for fresh lotus seed sweet soup. Meanwhile, others take a small boat and row along the stream, admiring the fragrant morning full of blooming flowers and gentle breeze.
Some are reading books, some are brewing coffee by the stream. The sound of boiling water bubbling is delightful to the ears, followed by the aromatic scent of coffee. It's surprisingly cool here in the summer, not too far from the city, yet it feels like escaping to a countryside retreat...
Source: Tuoi Tre Newspaper
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Reference: Travel Handbook by Mytour
MytourJune 24, 2016
