Buzz
We had 4 days off and no plans in sight, too late to book tickets to Phu Quy or Nam Du islands. “If we can't head to the beach, let's head to the forest, my friend. Let's go into the woods to find butterflies and seek out leaves.” So we dubbed our 48-hour trek into Nam Cat Tien the “Journey of the Leaves” as we aimed to hunt for those leaves that know how to smile.
Venturing into the Wilderness of Nam Cat Tien
Alarm Mishap
Hey buddy, don't be mad! I arrived late because I set my alarm for 6:00 am but forgot to switch it from 'weekday' to 'weekend'. You've been waiting for over a decade, and now you have to wait another 2 hours because of my annoying face. I'm sorry, I'll have to double-check my alarm and it's probably best to set my phone to vibrate and ring before every long journey. Anyway, go to sleep, lean on my shoulder, and in 4 hours, wake up amidst Nam Cat Tien, just you, me, and nature.
Our 'Journey of the Leaves' hit a snag right off the bat, at 10:30 am.
Traveling from Saigon to Nam Cat Tien
– After enduring 4 hours (from 10:30 am to 02:30 pm) of cramped conditions and frustratingly dismissive attitudes on the Bé Bus (0613795421 – 0983795421), we finally reached Nam Cat Tien. The first lesson learned: never buy tickets at Counter 5, Miền Đông Bus Station as advised by most online sources. At 92,000 VND/ticket, you won't sit in the designated seat as stated on your ticket; instead, you'll be squeezed into a bench meant for 4 with 5 adults to accommodate acquaintances of the bus company. Bé Bus will cram anyone, the elderly, children, women... with an indifferent and disinterested demeanor.
– On the return journey, we opted for Kim Hoàn Bus (0969621717 – 0163791133) at 100,000 VND/ticket, which included a bottle of mineral water, a cold towel, and non-functional Wi-Fi despite the bus company's advertisements and promises of cheesy music throughout the trip... but compared to the outbound journey, the return was heaven. The bus was cool, seats were decent, and the staff were friendly.
– Currently, only these two bus companies operate from Miền Đông Bus Station to Nam Cat Tien gate and vice versa, with 2-3 trips per day.
– Upon arrival at the gate, you'll need to purchase an entry ticket for 60,000 VND/person, which includes round-trip transportation into/out of Nam Cat Tien by boat or ferry. For further information on sightseeing, accommodation booking, and other services, you can call (0613669159 – 0613669228).
Day 1: Cycling in Search of Leaves
– We checked in at 3:00 pm, and the atmosphere was stifling. The room, priced at 150,000 VND/night and booked through the Nam Cat Tien Ecotourism hotline – Green Cat Tien (0613669228), reeked of dampness. The ancient air conditioner hummed like a generator, running at full blast, supplemented by the largest electric fan, hoping to dry up the hot and humid tropical air and lingering annoyance. Booking early will surely get you a better room.
– We decided to take a refreshing cold shower and then rent bicycles (30,000 VND/hour/bike) to explore the forest. Rental bikes are available at the parking lot opposite the reception desk. The attendant is very friendly and helpful. Remember to thoroughly check the bikes, choose suitable ones because the rocky roads are quite challenging, opt for lightweight bicycles with moderately high seats, and properly inflated tires to prevent punctures while cycling.
– From the parking lot, turn left, head towards the pier, and follow the straight concrete road. The map is not detailed, but if you stick to the main route, from concrete to dirt roads, stone paths, and follow the signboards, you'll reach your destination. We stopped by the Tung tree about 1km from the center, then the Cự pier (which you should avoid), and the Trời waterfall.
– The air is incredibly fresh, birds chirp, insects hum, and nature, though not overly exotic, is lush green. The Tung tree has remarkably dense roots, located on the left side of the road, a few minutes' walk from the main path. About 6km further is the Trời waterfall, with a beautiful cycling route under the canopy of trees, a bit challenging due to the rocky terrain, and a section of walking path along the stream. Although called a waterfall, it's more like a narrow stream with some rocky rapids. The Cự pier is actually a concrete bridge, followed by a small resort, nothing remarkable.
– With only 2 hours from 4:30 pm to 6:30 pm, we could only manage that much, and of course, took plenty of beautiful pictures. Remember not to return late, as darkness falls rapidly after 6 pm, and it can be quite dangerous to remain in the forest. And don't forget to apply insect repellent (D.E.E.T) to fend off mosquitoes.
We intended to seek out leaves... but leaves were everywhere, gently swaying and smiling.
Day 2: Trekking through the Jungle in Search of Butterflies
– The oppressive forest air eased slightly at night, with no wind, moon, or stars, only the ceaseless chirping of insects, lingering until dawn.
– We arranged a shared ride to Crocodile Lake for 500,000 VND/round-trip, no guide provided, split per head, we shared with a family of 5, so paid 80,000 VND/person, very reasonable price including tip for the driver. In addition to the fare, there's a 140,000 VND/person entrance fee, which is discounted by 30% for guests staying at Green Cat Tien. Alarm clock set for 5 am, a cold shower to shake off sleepiness, we hastily devoured a 25,000 VND egg sandwich to depart by 6:30 am. You can rent bicycles, but returning will be quite tiring and time-consuming.
– After 30 minutes of riding under lush green canopies, glimpses of bright blue skies, along narrow dirt roads, we arrived at the edge of the jungle, greeted by early-season butterflies. In about 1-2 weeks, when the rains intensify, Nam Cat Tien will be teeming with butterflies.
– Ahead lies a 5km jungle trek (each way), exploring the solitude amidst the stifling heat. The forest isn't as cool as we imagined, not a hint of breeze. But the foliage, the canopy, the ancient roots, the ant colonies... all erased the heat and fatigue. And the idle chatter, laughter echoing in the heart of the jungle.
– As we neared the end, every kilometer, every meter counted... then a faint glimpse of the calm blue waters, sunlight flooding, the breeze from Crocodile Lake. Our biggest mistake was not going straight to Crocodile Lake the previous evening, staying overnight for over 1,000,000 VND/room/night (probably holiday rates), dining on the forest rangers' cooked meal for 400,000 VND/2-dish chicken, sleeping in rooms rented out by the rangers. In the evening, the rangers can take you to see nocturnal animals. Sleeping amidst the forest. Waking up early, drawing back the curtains to see the lake, licking the dewy mist, surely a very yomost feeling. If there's a next time, we'll definitely do that. If you're copying us, remember to call the ticket counter hotline and make a reservation (0613669159). They only have 5 rooms, so first come, first served.
– If you're interested, you can row a boat around the lake for 150,000 VND/boat, maximum 3 people. They say there are many crocodiles raised in Crocodile Lake. They tell us they're very gentle, don't bite anyone, just swallow whole (just kidding!). Wandering around the lake for photos is beautiful, but beware of bees, mosquitoes, ants, and squeeze bugs.
The leaves in Crocodile Lake have a strange scent, a hint of the fragrance of budding affection.
That's it. The end of our two days in Nam Cat Tien cost us only about 800,000 VND.
By Ricky Thai
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Source: Mytour Travel Guide
MytourDecember 12, 2017
