Buzz
Returning to Pyongyang after 6 years, Quang Minh observes traffic jams but feels no war-like atmosphere.
Vietnamese Traveler Recounts 'Special Moments' in North Korea
Not every Vietnamese has the chance to visit North Korea, but Ngô Quang Minh (Hanoi) has set foot here twice. His latest trip in September brought North Korea back into the headlines, mainly revolving around nuclear issues and the threat of war on the Korean Peninsula.
Unease in the Journey
Minh couldn't shake off a sense of unease entering Pyongyang while tension escalated on the Korean Peninsula.
When the train carrying Minh reached the Tân Nghĩa Châu station (Sinuiju), just 15 minutes from the Dan Dong station crossing the Yalu River, North Korean customs began inspecting documents and luggage. This process took about 2 hours, and the entire train came to a halt. This was the most anxious period for him.
'Will they let me in again? Will they confiscate my phone (like in 2011)? Will they inspect my camera, lenses, and keep them if they find anything suspicious? Is there any item that could unintentionally trigger scrutiny?' Minh reminisced. All concerns eventually faded away with cheerful smiles, not only from him but from all the train passengers.
The only interest of North Korean customs in Minh's suitcase was two short-term travel posters from Dan Dong to Pyongyang. They asked, examined, returned, and stated no issues. They didn't touch other items; the camera and phone remained untouched, personal items in their places, the pre-filled entry form was stamped, and they politely bid farewell to the entire group before disembarking the train. As the train slowly rolled into Pyongyang, Minh entered for the second time.
Through the train's interconnecting window, North Korea gradually unfolded, with golden rice fields. For him, the journey six years ago seemed seamlessly connected, and the familiar scenery remained serene.
Contemporary North Korea
Contrary to many expectations, it's not easy for Minh to see tanks, artillery, or missiles, not even a group of soldiers in downtown Pyongyang. Instead, significant changes are evident on the streets.
Skyscrapers have risen along the Taedong River, exuding a more modern elegance. While bicycles remain the primary means of inner-city travel, cars now dominate Pyongyang. Renowned global brands such as Toyota, VW, Audi, Buick... fill the streets. Traffic jams have become a phenomenon at major intersections, a stark contrast to years gone by.
'Stepping into Pyongyang for the first time, I wondered what the lone policewoman at that intersection would do when not a single car passed all day?!' Minh recalled.
With a 7-day itinerary in Korea, Minh not only visited more places than his previous 4-day trip but also had the opportunity to gain deeper insights into the daily lives of the people. He noticed a vibrancy in their pace of life. While still busy in the endless cycle of survival, the scenes of poverty were noticeably fewer. North Koreans now favor brighter clothing, shedding the old gray tones. High heels and mobile phones are no longer rare sights.
The initial hesitation, shyness towards tourists, even avoidance, and resentment towards being photographed have given way to the boldness and openness of the North Koreans. Minh's group interacted, took photos, filmed, and sang along with many North Koreans, some even suggesting it themselves. This wasn't just in the capital Pyongyang but also in other regions, from Mount Kumgang and Mount Myohyang to cities like Kesong, Nampo, and Wonsan.
For Minh, despite the many changes, the gentle, sincere, and friendly nature of the North Korean people remains unchanged. Along with that, their respect and affection for the Vietnamese are what he remembers most from the trip.
Vietnamese Welcomed in North Korea
The DMZ, a non-military zone, became a noteworthy spot for Minh on his two visits. The recent one, however, stood out. After introducing everyone to the Ban Mon Diem event, the North Korean officer spent a special 15 minutes chatting with Minh about modern Vietnamese history, discovering he comes from the S-shaped land. Stories of the national defense war, the separation period, and the later reunification of Vietnam from 1954-1975 were shared by two individuals from two divided countries as if there was a deep connection.
Suggesting a group photo in the midst of DMZ, two soldiers at the hot border dividing the two regions agreed, while with other tourist groups, they all declined.
When visiting the Salim freshwater lake, Minh and his friends encountered a group of North Koreans climbing the mountain. Upon learning about Vietnamese visitors, they immediately requested a joint photo, even hugging shoulders for a shared song and film. A couple taking wedding photos in Kim Il Sung Square also happily invited him for a photo, emphasizing no need for sneaky shots, as the tour guide introduced the group from Vietnam.
The warmth of the North Koreans towards the Vietnamese was also evident when he visited the Friendship Exhibition Halls – a place preserving hundreds of thousands of international gifts sent to the state and leaders of North Korea in the Myohyang Mountains. A moment when a woman narrating at this spot exclaimed with delight upon meeting Minh's group. She was attentive in showing them around, introducing gifts from Vietnam, smiling and bowing until they all left with a promise: 'Please visit our country again next time!'
Minh believes that if one only reads information about North Korea without visiting, they won't grasp the different shades of this country. Behind the 'tightly closed' doors, they are very gentle, hospitable, sometimes shy, but sincerity can be felt immediately in the first encounter. North Koreans are skilled in art, creating beautiful paintings, enjoying public dancing, and sharing a liking for dog meat like the Vietnamese. Their food is delicious, expertly prepared, especially the famous Cao Ly ginseng.
Having the opportunity to set foot in many parts of the world, Minh finds the landscapes of North Korea stunning, with high mountains, deep rivers, mild climate, red autumn leaves, and snowy winters. If given the chance, Minh still wants to come here for the third, fourth time...
“Korea also boasts the treacherous White Tiger Range, numerous grand festivals and events, exotic dishes, and, above all, a plethora of fascinating individuals, of whom I've only touched a very small part. I hope to experience much more,” Minh shared.
After the trip, he amassed around 3,000 photos without scrutiny or deletion, a stark contrast to 2011 when he managed only 1,000 photos due to phone restrictions and limited time. Minh also purchased several sets of stamps in Pyongyang, including the 'Missile' set – commemorating North Korea's successful ballistic missile launch in the past July, some propaganda paintings, North Korean badges, and postcards.
'Minh sent himself a postcard from Pyongyang; previously, it took about a month for the card to arrive. This time, who knows if it'll be faster?' he eagerly awaits the post-trip gift.
Source: Vy An/Vnexpress
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Reference: Travel guide Mytour
Wanderlust.comDecember 15, 2017
