Weekend Destination: 7 Xoi Che and Banh Troi Tau Spots to 'Blow Away' Hanoi's Chill

Indulge in the Sweetness of Xoi Che and the Warmth of Bánh Trôi Tàu, Softening Hanoi's Winter Afternoons.

Weekend Destination: 7 Xoi Che and Banh Troi Tau Spots to 'Blow Away' Hanoi's Chill

Hanoi is entering the peak of its chilly winter days. The temperature drops sharply, and occasional cold rains intensify the frostiness. However, this is also the ideal time to enjoy Hanoi's coveted specialties. Traditional dishes like xoi che, che ba cot, banh troi tau, luc tau xa, and chi ma phu... are available all year round in Hanoi, but they seem to become even more delicious and enticing in winter.

These dishes are usually sold around the Old Quarter, in long-standing che stalls cherished by generations of Hanoians. The cooking methods, serving styles, bowls, and plates all bear the marks of the ancient capital. Therefore, you're not just indulging in a dish but also experiencing the essence of Trang An cuisine. Amidst the bone-chilling cold of the early days of the year, slipping into a corner of the Old Quarter, holding a bowl of hot che in your hands, enjoying the smoke-filled, sweet treats, there's nothing more to ask for.

– Mrs. Thin's Xoi Che Stall (1 Bat Dan Street): the most famous xoi che stall in Hanoi, has been around for nearly a century, located at the intersection of Bat Dan – Hang Bo – Thuoc Bac – Hang Thiec streets. The stall is always crowded, selling various traditional che such as xoi che, che ba cot, lotus seed che, black bean che, green bean che. Open from 7:30 AM to 11:00 PM, prices range from 15,000 VND.

- Mrs. Mai's Sweet Soup (93 Hang Bac): Although small, this place is always packed. Mostly for outdoor seating or takeout. They offer a variety of traditional sweet soups, with xoi che and luc tau xa being the most popular. Open from 9 AM to 9:30 PM, prices around 15,000 VND.

- Four Seasons Sweet Soup (Hang Can): Established since the 1970s, situated in a prime location between Hang Can and Luong Van Can streets, it's always bustling regardless of the season. The menu features a variety of traditional sweet soup dishes such as banh troi tau, luc tau xa. Open from 9 AM to 10 PM, prices around 20,000 VND.

- Sixteen Sweet Soup (Ngo Thi Nham): Another longstanding sweet soup stall in Hanoi, open for over 40 years at the intersection of Le Van Huu – Ngo Thi Nham streets. Although small, it's always crowded, especially in winter. It sells mostly traditional sweet soup dishes such as banh troi tau, floating cake, black bean sweet soup jelly, xoi che, lotus seed sweet soup, black bean sweet soup, and cao quy linh... only open until 6:30 PM, prices range from 15,000 to 25,000 VND.

- Pham Bang's Banh Troi Tau (30 Hang Giay): Perhaps not heavily advertised, this legendary sweet soup stall. After many years of absence, last year, Pham Bang's son decided to reopen the family's sweet soup stall. The menu consists of 3 main items: banh troi tau, luc tau xa, and chi ma phu, among which banh troi tau is the most famous. The unique flavor here is unforgettable. In addition, luc tau xa (made from green beans) and chi ma phu (black sesame sweet soup) are also perfect for winter days.

- Diep Beo's Banh Troi Tau (Hang Dieu): The stall mainly sells various sweet soup dishes including both traditional sweet soup and Saigon sweet soup. But in winter, customers mainly come here to enjoy banh troi tau. The food is rated as satisfactory. Sweet soup prices range around 15,000 VND, sold from 4 PM to 10 PM.

- De To Hoang's Banh Troi Tau: A small shop located in an alley, open from 3 PM to around 6 PM as it often runs out of stock due to the high number of customers in winter. Banh troi tau comes in 3 flavors: sesame filling, green bean filling, and meat filling.

By Nguyên Chi/Starlight

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Reference: Mytour Travel Guide