Western tourists and their journey experiencing the Thong Nhat train

Rolling out of Saigon in the early morning, the feeling of sitting comfortably on the train carriage amidst lively laughter... unforgettable experiences.

Rising from the ashes

To tourists, the Thong Nhat train is a fantastic journey, but to Vietnamese people, this train is also a symbol of unity, connecting the two regions of the country.

The only train built by the French (1899 - 1936) to transport weapons and food between the two regions and was destroyed during the Vietnam War.

Since 1954, the Thong Nhat train ceased operation due to restrictions on passing through the demilitarized zone near Hue established by the US to divide the North and South.

Outside Saigon train station, I met Mr. Ngoc, who has dedicated 55 years of his life to the most romantic train journeys in Vietnam. Since he was a young boy living in the Central Highlands, he has had a great fondness for trains. He recalls, 'The first time I jumped on a train without a ticket, I was caught by the train staff and kicked off.'

Since then, he has dreamed and done everything possible to work on this train. That dream became a reality, and he became one of those who contributed to rebuilding the Vietnam North-South railway system.

The North-South railway line was commenced and renovated on December 31, 1976, after more than 20 months of liberating the South, unifying the country.

Journey from Saigon to Thap Cham to Da Lat

Our adventure begins from Saigon station to Da Lat. Just out to the suburbs, the scenery on both sides of the road appeared enchanting with lush green rice fields swaying gently in the breeze.

On either side of the road, small houses peeked out from beneath ancient trees, interspersed with hamlets and cemeteries with tombstones entwined with vines.

Our first stop is Thap Cham - a unique site with Cham architectural art and sculptures. From here, it takes just under 3 hours to traverse the winding roads amidst majestic and romantic mountain scenery to reach Da Lat station, where the French once indulged in luxurious colonial vacations.

Since 1972, Da Lat station has ceased to be connected to the main railway line, so the station is painted in faded yellow with dusty window frames, and the plush seats in the waiting room are no longer as bustling as before.

Currently, platform 1 has been transformed into a café adorned with black and white photos from the station's heyday. Vintage toys are also designed to resemble a train carriage, with 3 wooden carriages pulled by a yellow and green diesel locomotive.

The sensation of swaying as the train gradually increases speed, gliding through narrow tunnels, even coming close to houses where families are dining, past flower and vegetable greenhouse farms...

Journey from Nha Trang to Da Nang

The train departs from Nha Trang at 4:30 PM. Sitting in the same row as us are a local couple in pajamas, on their way back to Hue after visiting relatives in Saigon.

The second-class wooden seat carriages, like ours, come with quite a few inconveniences; passengers are still cramped and noisy. There's no dedicated dining car for passengers; instead, there's an elderly woman pushing a food cart selling rice, fried chicken, boiled eggs... to serve the passengers.

Danang is renowned for its stunning coastline and modern cityscape with high-rise hotels, skateboard parks, and paragliding in the sky. The highlight of this coastal city is the 72-meter tall white statue of Quan Am Buddha standing majestically on the green mountainside.

Along the coastline, bamboo basket boats are scattered along the white sandy beaches. In the distance, a few fishermen from the fishing villages are pulling nets in the murky waters, diligently hauling in nets full of fish.

To the southwest, surrounded by the Marble Mountains, the sacred mountain revered for decades, we climb the steps of Thuy Son Mountain - the largest mountain in the Marble Mountains range with temples, caves of Hindu devotees used before Buddhism was introduced.

Journey from Danang to Hanoi

Arriving at Danang station under gloomy weather with a sudden rain, we hope for a small miracle to delay the train. Every passing minute in the waiting room becomes increasingly crowded as families jostle for seats and weary tourists with heavy backpacks search for a spot.

Inside and outside the bustling train station, there are street vendors selling grilled fish, boiled eggs, tea, and plates with President Ho Chi Minh's image alongside lively greetings.

As the train arrives, passengers swarm onto the train like a colony of ants, laden with heavy luggage. We sit quietly in the cabin behind the pink curtain, tidying up the fake flowers and following the guide's instructions to prepare for the most spectacular part of the railway journey.

The drizzle persists even upon reaching Hanoi, low clouds shrouding the old quarter, rain pouring down on the bridge across Hoan Kiem Lake and the walls of the Grand Opera House.

As night falls, we venture into the Ray Quan bar and restaurant, located near the train tracks amidst the constant honking of trains.

However, the noise of motorbikes, roosters, and clinking pots and pans is quickly drowned out by the roar of the approaching train, accompanied by thunderous rumblings and sparks shooting from the wheels screeching and the amber light from the sleeper carriages.

Then the space becomes tranquil. And every time we visit Ray Quan, we enjoy a glass of rice wine, raising a toast to the journey, the ingenuity, and determination to cling to this North-South train journey...

From Tuoitre.vn 

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Reference: Travel guide by Mytour