Buzz
The Mã River originates from the southern mountains of Dien Bien Province, flows through Son La Province, crosses into Laos, and returns to Vietnam in Thanh Hoa Province before pouring into the Hoi Estuary in Sam Son. It is considered the mother river of Thanh Hoa as its silt has created the Thanh Hoa Plain.
For a long time, Lữ Phong has harbored the desire to explore the Mã River by watercraft. The intrepid traveler, who faced no obstacles on land, has traversed mountain passes and deserted forests alone on horseback. Yet, he understands that rivers present an entirely different challenge.
After struggling to find suitable transportation and companions, a friend from Thanh Hoa suddenly reached out, inviting him to join as he owned a boat. Traveling alone can be lonely, akin to sleeping without a blanket.
The majestic “battleship” was launched at the deserted old ferry terminal in Phong Son town, near the foot of the Cẩm Thủy bridge.
The path leading down to the old ferry terminal on the other side of the river, nestled at the base of the mountain.
A series of hydroelectric power plants at the source have caused the Mã River to run dry at the end of the year. The tranquil azure waters flow gently. Engines roaring, the gang has already boarded the vehicles, with Lữ Phong and his fellow traveler accompanying the boat as it leaves the old ferry terminal and sails downstream.
The early winter sky is clear, mirroring the serene blue of the river.
The cotton mop suddenly appears in front.
In front and behind, thousands of cotton mops line the riverbank.
From that bend of the river, in front of them, thousands of cotton mops line the riverbank. The mountains ahead gradually diminish. Ahead and behind the boat, there are only banks of mops. The Mã River, in Lữ Phong's eyes at this moment, resembles a beautifully endless stream of mops.
November on the Mã River - a beautifully endless stream of mops.
The boat continues to diligently run, the engine roaring in the wind – it has to roar because the power is too small to carry both of them. Luckily, it's running downstream, benefiting from a little water power. They're almost out of Cẩm Thủy land, with the bamboo banks on both sides thinning out as more residential areas and riverbank fields appear. The riverbanks are still lush green with patches of sugarcane and corn fields.
The sugarcane and corn fields are becoming more prevalent along with clusters of residential areas.
The sun is casting its shadow, and the Cẩm Vân floating bridge emerges ahead of the boat's bow. Cẩm Vân is the last commune of Cẩm Thủy district. Luckily, all they need to do is take down the sunshade and bend down into the boat to pass under the floating bridge.
At noon, the boat arrives at the Cẩm Vân floating bridge, marking the end of Cẩm Thủy land.
A bit of rapids due to... sand mining
Passing the Cẩm Vân floating bridge, the downstream of the Mã River belongs to Vĩnh Lộc land, with a bit still part of Cẩm Thủy land, then onto Yên Định land. Perhaps coincidentally, in the border region of these three districts, sand mining on the Mã River is quite bustling.
Vĩnh Lộc land – mechanical equipment appears on the riverbank.
At this stretch, Lữ Phong's 'warship' unexpectedly encounters a challenge – albeit somewhat dangerous – causing the two 'sailors' to focus on steering the boat, forgetting about the pressure of hunger. Because the sand beneath the river is being sucked up significantly, it forms numerous rocky banks (due to sand deposition) emerging, on the other hand, creating very deep, rushing water channels.
The river is no longer calm but filled with large whirlpools, especially a low reef that nearly spans the width of the river. The two must maneuver the small boat diagonally against the current to pass the reef. The low reef poses no challenge to sturdy boats or ordinary wooden boats, but for the tiny makeshift composite boat, it's no laughing matter.
Sand mining activities are bustling.
After overcoming the swirling reef, it's well past noon, and the sole accomplice waiting in Vĩnh Lộc has come to the riverbank... cheering the two gentlemen ashore for lunch. The trio must find a dry spot by the river, diligently... hoist the boat onto the pickup truck for lunch. Initially planning to bring food along to have a picnic on some sandbar, cook over a fire, but the 'warship' is running too slow, so they have to cancel the plan.
With the speed of the 'warship,' it's unlikely to reach Hội Gate as scheduled, for Lữ Phong to catch the 9:20 PM flight to Saigon, even reaching Thanh Hóa might not be in time for his flight schedule. Therefore, the boat is 'smuggled' by the car for a stretch of river about more than ten kilometers after the late lunch of the landlords, before being relaunched to continue the journey.
Vast downstream bathed in golden afternoon sunlight.
Lowering the boat again, the pickup truck 'decisively' heads straight back to Thanh Hóa, while worrying about preparing dinner for the two exhausted sailors. Lữ Phong and his friend continue to listen to the roaring engine on the river.
Driving with the foot, to have hands free to steer and snap photos.
Arriving at the Giằng intersection is like reaching the outskirts of Thanh Hóa city. After receiving water from the Chu River, the Mã River widens expansively, deeper water, slower flow, thus the speed of the 'warship' also noticeably slows down.
The Hoàng Long tourist boat cruises on the Mã River, in the outskirts of Thanh Hóa.
The vast expanse of the river makes the 'warship' feel like a diligent turtle inching forward. The two sailors aboard it, however, seem unfazed, simply tilting their heads back to admire the river and sky. As the journey ends in Thanh Hóa – with a bonus few kilometers on land – there's surely enough time for a bath, dinner, and then off to the airport. So why rush?
As the last golden rays of a late afternoon in winter fade, the Hàm Rồng Bridge looms ahead of the boat. But the area around the bridge is all muddy flats, so the 'warship' must continue on to the Nguyệt Viên Bridge downstream. The two sailors scramble to find a landing spot and pull the boat ashore just as the city lights come on.
The historical Hàm Rồng Bridge, shortly followed by the Nguyệt Viên Bridge – Thanh Hóa City.
The crew arrived to retrieve the boat, cleaned up, then went to... prepare the food that had been marinating in the cooler for dinner. Lữ Phong was almost the last passenger on the late-night flight from Thọ Xuân Airport to Tan Son Nhat that day.
Occasionally, there are such crazy trips, you see... a lot of fun.
Author: Ngô Hòa Nam
*This article participates in the Mytour Golocal program
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