Buzz
Every culture is home to a variety of subcultures, each waiting to be discovered by the inquisitive observer. Some of these subcultures might seem strange or even intimidating, while others blend seamlessly into the mainstream.
10. Russian Stilyagi
In the 1950s, Moscow's stilyagi ("hipsters") were rebellious teenagers who embraced modern hairstyles, bold makeup, and vivid Western fashion, defying the oppressive cultural atmosphere of the USSR. Secretly, they tuned into forbidden American jazz and rock music. Their unwavering dedication to freedom of expression led them to risk arrest by Russian authorities, who conducted daily roundups.
Due to the scarcity of vinyl records in the Soviet Union, the stilyagi salvaged discarded X-rays from hospital trash. They transformed these into crude makeshift records by cutting them into circular shapes and puncturing them with cigarette burns. A Western album's recording was etched into each vinyl circle, giving birth to bone music.
The sound quality was poor, and the records could only be played on one side. However, they were inexpensive to produce and served their purpose. These homemade records often contained surprises, like a sarcastic Russian voice taunting listeners: "So, you thought you'd hear the latest hits, huh?"
An underground network known as the X-ray press eventually emerged across the Soviet Union, distributing millions of Western records covertly. However, the authorities soon caught wind of this illicit trade, and official music patrols were dispatched to track down distributors and seize the records.
9. Teddy Boys
Contrary to popular belief, the teddy boy movement did not originate from the rock 'n' roll wave of the mid-1950s. In fact, it likely began earlier in the late 1940s, initiated by a Savile Row tailor in Britain who sought to revive the Edwardian dandy look.
Inspired by this fresh trend, British youths soon abandoned the drabness and austerity of the postwar period in favor of an eccentric style. These individuals, known as 'teddies'—a term coined in 1953 when the *Daily Express* headline shortened 'Edwardian' to 'Teddy'—adorned themselves in drape jackets, brocade waistcoats, tight-fitting trousers, high-collared shirts, and slim ties. Their clothing was of impeccable quality, mostly custom-made, and purchased through weekly installment payments.
The teddy boys' distinct hairstyles further set them apart. They sported heavily greased quiffs at the front and a flattened hairstyle at the back, often referred to as a 'duck's arse.'
As the teddy boys gained notoriety, they faced growing disapproval. They became increasingly ostracized, especially after being implicated in violent incidents, such as the fatal stabbing of a 17-year-old by the Plough Gang, who also wore Edwardian-style suits. Notices stating 'No Edwardian clothes or rubber-soled footwear' were soon posted in local dance halls.
Although the teddy boy subculture endured, its numbers dwindled. By the 1970s, it began to merge with the 'rockers.' It became common for teddy boys to wear leather jackets during the day but return to their drape jackets and collared shirts in the evening.
8. Neo Pinup Girls
Drawing inspiration from the 1940s and 1950s, the iconic look of the retro pinup girl has made a strong comeback. It was first popularized by legendary figures such as Marilyn Monroe and Bettie Page, who became famous for their captivating curves, dazzling style, and flawless makeup and hairstyles. The pinup movement saw a resurgence in the 1990s, led by modern-day icons like Dita Von Teese and Sabina Kelley.
This revival has sparked a unique subculture known as neo pinup. These modern pinups still embrace the glamour of the 1950s but infuse it with contemporary elements. Emphasizing individuality and personal flair, neo pinups often sport vivid hair colors, body piercings, and tattoos. They may favor materials like latex, yet still stick to the vintage cuts and aesthetics.
7. Pachucos
Pachucos were a distinctive subculture of Mexican-American men and women, active from the 1930s through the 1950s, known for their bold fashion choices, particularly the zoot suit. These suits were characterized by oversized jackets with wide shoulders, baggy pants that were tapered and cuffed at the ankles, and worn high on the waist. The jackets often featured a key chain hanging from the pocket. Pachucos also embraced the ducktail hairstyle and accessorized with felt hats, tattoos, and, on occasion, a concealed weapon.
The women, referred to as pachucas, adopted a similar style, often donning men’s jackets, short skirts, fishnet stockings, and platform heels. Their hairstyles were voluminous, and their makeup, especially the lipstick, was bold. Some pachucas even wore men’s zoot suits and engaged in activities such as smoking in public, which was considered quite masculine at the time.
In 1942, when the War Production Board attempted to regulate fabric usage for suits, the pachucos defiantly bypassed these restrictions by turning to underground tailors, causing a stir during wartime America.
Pachucos often communicated using calo, a unique blend of indigenous languages, gypsy dialect, Spanish, and English. As public opinion turned against the pachucos, calo became an exclusive language, understood only by members of this subculture.
6. Heavy Metal Subculture Of Botswana
In 2008, South African photographer Frank Marshall explored Botswana's heavy metal scene by following a South African metal band on their tour of Gaborone, the country's capital. During this time, he encountered local metal enthusiasts dressed in some of the most striking and unconventional outfits he had ever witnessed.
These African metalheads not only wore band T-shirts but also embraced cowboy hats and leather gear reminiscent of biker culture. Their accessories included hunting knives and parts of dead animals, and many carried hollowed-out cow horns, which they used as drinking vessels. Women, too, were actively involved in this heavy metal movement.
According to Marshall, there is fierce competition between members to see who can look the most brutal. In addition to their intimidating outfits, they often give themselves unusual names such as “Dead Demon Rider” or “Cofinfeeder,” which further enhances their aura of brutality.
Some of Botswana’s biggest metal bands include Skinflint and Amok, although they don’t play often for various reasons. However, when the metal bands do hold their shows, rockers throughout the country attend, even if they have to travel long distances over difficult terrain. They like to listen to the bands and catch up with their fellow metalheads.
5. Greasers
After emerging in the US in the 1950s, greasers grew in popularity in the 1960s. Originally, their name came from the Greaser Act of 1855, which allowed Americans living in California to oppress Mexicans because of their supposedly poor, dangerous nature.
Thus, the name had a negative connotation and suited this subculture rather well because the rest of American society already viewed them as dangerous, violent individuals. However, they also became known as greasers because their greasy hair was always slicked back with various gels and pomades. Often, they carried a comb with them so that they could manage their heavily styled hair at any time.
Greasers wore leather jackets, jeans, black or white T-shirts that were tightly fitted, and motorcycle boots. They loved loud rock music, fast cars, and stripped-down motorcycles. Elvis Presley was their icon.
Women also sported this look by wearing pencil skirts, poodle skirts, or straight-leg jeans with motorcycle jackets. It was a real contrast to the rest of society, especially as America entered a new age of widespread prosperity and strait-laced conformity after World War II.
4. Argentinean Floggers
Floggers emerged in Argentina at the end of 2004 and quickly spread to other parts of Latin America, including Mexico and Venezuela. The term 'flogger' originally referred to a youth movement in which Argentine teenagers uploaded photos of themselves to a photoblog called Fotolog.
This often resulted in a large following and numerous comments. Some of these individuals even received modeling contracts and travel opportunities. But floggers were more than just an online trend. To truly be considered a flogger, one had to embrace a distinct style of clothing, hair, and music.
Floggers developed a signature fashion style, characterized by bright colors, tight-fitting pants, V-neck T-shirts, and white shoes. Their hair was typically styled to one side. The music they favored included electronica and rock, and their dance moves were influenced by the French tecktonic dance style.
3. New Romantics
The New Romantics were a fashion and music movement that began in the 1970s at a London nightclub called Billy’s. With punk rock on the decline, people sought a fresh musical direction to embrace.
The David Bowie and Roxy Music nights at Billy’s soon created these new idols. In 1979, the growing popularity of the club led its organizers to move to a larger venue, the Blitz, where they hosted weekly private parties that helped define the movement’s sound and aesthetic.
The Blitz became renowned for the colorful, eccentric fashion choices of its patrons. Both men and women embraced androgynous attire. Men frequently wore makeup and frilly shirts, drawing inspiration from the flamboyant style of the English Romantic era. Fashion influences were also pulled from an eclectic range of 1970s films and the golden age of Hollywood. The club’s exclusive atmosphere catered to those with striking, original looks.
This fashionable hotspot was also known for upbeat synthesizer pop designed for dancing. Spandau Ballet emerged as a leading band within this subculture, helping to spread both the sounds and the distinctive style of the movement across the globe.
It wasn’t until nearly a year later that the media took notice of this emerging crowd. The press quickly coined terms like “New Dandies,” “Romantic Rebels,” and “Blitz Kids.” In 1980, the music weekly Sounds published the headline “New Romantics,” bringing widespread attention to the movement.
2. Sharpies
The Sharpie youth movement originated in Australia and became widely popular during the 1960s and 1970s. The group mainly consisted of young people from working-class and immigrant areas of the country.
Sharpies were known for their distinctive hairstyles and fashion choices. The boys typically wore high-waisted, flared pants or jeans paired with T-shirts or striped cardigans, while the girls chose miniskirts or pleated skirts, cardigans, and wedge heels.
The cardigan, often referred to as a 'conny,' was the central piece of every sharpie’s wardrobe. It was tight-fitting with a collar, adorned with stripes in various clashing colors. Some cardigans also featured buttoned belts at the back. The mullet was the preferred hairstyle for both boys and girls.
Sharpies were territorial, often naming their gangs after the suburbs or streets they came from. Although known for their toughness and aggression, their conflicts were primarily with rival sharpie groups or local surfers, called 'surfies.'
Sharpies favored bold, straightforward rock music, with bands like AC/DC and the Skyhooks being among their top choices. They also developed a unique dance style, where they would form a circle, bounce on their legs, and pump their fists in front of their bodies.
1. Rude Boys
The rude boy subculture emerged in Jamaica around the time of the country's independence from Britain in 1962. Amidst poverty and widespread unrest, riots and protests became common. Many individuals resorted to 'scuffling,' a form of survival that involved doing whatever was necessary to make ends meet.
The rude boy movement emerged in such a turbulent environment, fueled by anger and frustration. Their violent, rebellious actions frequently made headlines in local newspapers, further defining the image of this subculture.
Rude boys were easily recognizable by their stylish imitation of upper-class fashion. They wore sharp, close-fitting suits, porkpie hats, and sunglasses. Often carrying weapons like handguns and German ratchet knives, their gangster persona made them stand out and frequently caused tension. They were known to initiate confrontations and draw their knives first.
The rude boys became well-known figures in Jamaican society. In 1962, Stranger Cole's song 'Ruff and Tough' became the first anthem of the rude boy movement. The following year, the Wailers released the single 'Simmer Down,' written and performed by Bob Marley at the age of 18 to calm his mother’s concerns about his association with the rude boys.
When young Jamaicans moved to Great Britain in the 1950s and 1960s, they brought with them the rude boy movement, which eventually influenced various subcultures, including mods and skinheads.
