Buzz
Throughout history, one undeniable truth is that we're often left to fill in the gaps of women's stories — whether it’s their thoughts, or even their fashion choices.
Despite women representing nearly half of the population, some historians argue that women’s narratives make up only about 0.5% of documented history.
This rings true for the curators of Sporting Fashion, a groundbreaking exhibition that aims to reconstruct the history of women's sportswear (and by extension, the history of women in sports). While men's sports are well-documented and celebrated in hall-of-fames, women's sports often fade into the background. But women scaled mountains in skirts, crafted swimsuits from denim scraps, and had to constantly find innovative ways to make sports work for them, even when they weren't always included.
"One thing we often forget is that history doesn’t always preserve what time does," said Kevin Jones, the curator for the exhibition and Senior Curator at the ASU FIDM Museum. "We may never know how many women were out there enjoying themselves. But I can promise you, based on our research, that when men were out participating in active pursuits, women watched and thought, 'I’d like to do that, too.' They found ways to make it happen."
"Yes, they wore corsets. In fact, some men wore them too. They didn’t just lie around fainting," Kevin explained. "That’s a complete myth. Women were horseback riding, mountaineering, shooting, hunting — they were doing all sorts of things. They just had to find a way to do it within the constraints of their era."
I first discovered the Sporting Fashion exhibit through a viral video posted by TikTok user @tomboykatie. Like many, I was instantly captivated by the ingenuity women displayed before leggings became the go-to choice for our modern workouts.
So, in an effort to resurrect women's forgotten stories (and showcase some truly phenomenal historical outfits), I'm here today to share a few glimpses of what women actually wore to play sports in the past — because these looks are incredible and absolutely deserve recognition (even if it's 60–200+ years overdue):
1. ✨Ice skating✨, 1810s:
2. ✨Archery✨, 1820s:
3. ✨Mountaineering✨, also known as rock-climbing, circa 1890s:
Indeed, these women were rock-climbing in FULL SKIRTS:
"It was crucial for me to feature that photo of the two women in Scotland mountaineering, because they weren’t even wearing divided skirts. They were in full skirts. And they weren’t just casually walking up a small hill. No, these women were literally clinging to the sides of steep cliffs," Kevin said.
"What I find fascinating about that photo is one of the women has a safety rope tied around her waist. You might think, 'Oh, someone at the top of the cliff must be holding it.' But no, it loops up and over, tied to the other woman's waist. So if one woman falls, they both fall. It's just like, 'Oh my God,'" Kevin continued. "And honestly, there’s no man in that era, even today, who would think of climbing a cliff in a skirt."
Kevin also mentioned that they actually identified the cliff they were climbing, and today, it’s ILLEGAL to climb because it’s so dangerous. Yet these women did it back in 1908... in SKIRTS! "I had to include that image because, without proof, no one would believe any woman could have climbed in that gear," he told me.
4. Ok, next up, ✨Inline Skating✨, circa 1890s:
Yes, the skates were authentic! They were crafted from metal, wood, rubber, and leather by The Road Skate Company based in London, England (1896–98).
5. ✨Croquet✨ and ✨Cricket✨, circa 1890s:
"Each outfit represents its peak period. Croquet was at its zenith in the 1860s, which is why we showcase the croquet ensembles. Cricket reached its high point in the 1890s. All these outfits come from the time when these sports were most popular and influential among women," Kevin explained.
6. ✨Fencing✨, circa 1890s:
7. ✨Cycling✨, also circa 1890s:
Kevin shared that the green and pink chrysanthemum print cycling ensemble on the left is a fan-favorite, partly because it’s a complete outfit that would have been worn together. The other outfits, like the one on the right, were put together based on available visual and written sources. "However, these are all authentic garments from the era," he explained. "Everything on the mannequin is within a rough five-year window." Kevin also mentioned that, much like today, some clothing items could serve multiple purposes, such as the 1890s mountaineering divided skirt, which could also be worn for cycling.
8. ✨Bathing✨, circa 1900s:
I'm sure you have...questions. But no, it's not for swimming! It's a French personal changing tent, called a cabine d'essayage. It's incredibly rare and nearly didn't make it into the collection.
Kevin shared the story behind it: "It was part of a French family collection. It's the only known surviving piece of its kind. I had been hoping to find one during my research, and just as the project was wrapping up, I received a text from a dealer in Spain. He told me, 'There's a sale coming up in the French countryside.' This wasn’t a dress sale—it was just a family sale. But it was there, and he spotted it. He let me know, and I was immediately on the phone with the Auction House at 3 AM. I told our partners at the American Federation of Arts in New York, 'We need an emergency photoshoot because this has to be in the project.' Everyone was thrilled, and it’s been one of the most popular pieces in the show."
9. ✨Piloting✨, circa 1930s:
In both the catalog and the exhibition, Kevin wanted to do more than simply showcase clothes; he aimed to spotlight the women of that era who may have worn them. "We’re not just talking about clothing on a body; these were garments worn by people. We wanted to emphasize the women who wore them," he said.
Kevin added, "We considered Amelia Earhart for the piloting section, but since she’s so well-known, we wanted to bring attention to other women who might not have received as much recognition. That’s when we learned about Hazel Ying Lee, a Chinese American woman from the northwest who aspired to be a pilot back in the 1930s."
"How does a Chinese American woman in the 1930s become a pilot? She made it happen. She broke through boundaries, overcame obstacles, and seized opportunities. We wanted to capture that journey," Kevin explained. He also emphasized the need to highlight not only the garments but the women who wore them and their voices. "This is the only way it could feel authentic – instead of just saying, 'Here’s what they wore,' showing a photo, and leaving it at that. That’s easy. We wanted to push ourselves to do more."
10. Next up: ✨Rodeoing and Ranching✨ (Rodeoing: circa 1940s, Ranching: circa 1930s):
11. ✨Strolling✨, sandals circa 1930s:
Believe it or not, activities like "strolling," "summer walking," or even "rain walking" were once viewed as "sports" by women of the past. Kevin shared, "That’s why we refer to it as sport fashion—because things that were considered sports in their time, like gardening or walking, might not be seen that way today."
12. ✨Yachting✨ (left: circa 1880s, right: circa 1930s):
Notice how the dress evolved over a 50-year period! On the right, it's noticeably looser and much more comfortable-looking.
13. ✨Skiing✨, circa 1930s:
Or perhaps these are on loan from a serial killer (just kidding).
14. ✨Roller Derby✨, circa 1940s:
And that’s a wrap on all the little glimpses I’ve got! If you’re wondering why you haven’t come across any of these before, well, there are a few reasons:
As I mentioned earlier, this is the first time this collection has ever been cataloged. Curator Kevin Jones dedicated 12 years to collecting garments and piecing together fragments of women’s history to bring this exhibition to life. Secondly, over the years, many items were lost or deteriorated. And third, since they weren't deemed as important—unlike a wedding dress—they simply weren’t preserved.
As I mentioned earlier, this is the first time this collection has ever been cataloged. Curator Kevin Jones dedicated 12 years to collecting garments and piecing together fragments of women’s history to bring this exhibition to life. Secondly, over the years, many items were lost or deteriorated. And third, since they weren't deemed as important—unlike a wedding dress—they simply weren’t preserved.
I also wondered who was wearing these garments and if sports were reserved only for wealthy women, but Kevin said that women from all walks of life enjoyed sports — it's just that their garments may not have survived as well, since they were worn out from use.
"The 19th century and the rise of the Industrial Revolution marked the beginning of significant changes, greatly expanding the middle class in Europe and the United States. This shift allowed more people to engage in leisurely activities," Kevin explained. "Regardless of whether they were wealthy or from the peasantry, people were out participating in fun sports and figuring out what to wear for them."
"The rarity of these garments is due to the fact that they just didn’t survive, especially items worn by the middle or lower classes. They were worn out,” Kevin noted. "It’s not like they could just go buy another writing habit or a piloting outfit. That’s what makes these pieces so rare."
And if you're thinking, 'How on earth did they wear these outfits?!' Kevin reminded us not to compare them too harshly, as these garments were often modern and innovative for their time, even if they might seem impractical or amusing by today’s standards.
"They were the pioneers of their time. One of the key things for us was to never compare these women, from 1800 to 1960, with women from the future," he explained. "Each of these women in the exhibition was the modern woman of their era, just as today's women are the modern women."
As to why the exhibition concludes at 1960, Kevin explained that by that time, women had mastered the ideal silhouettes. "By 1960, everything a woman wears today for sport — whether a uniform or casual sportswear — had already been designed. The only major difference is the development of textile technology," he remarked.
"Body suits and similar designs existed long before, but today's sharkskin fabrics that can monitor your pulse make them incredibly advanced and innovative. It's not just the shape of the garment itself, which has been around for ages."
The Sporting Fashion exhibition, which recently completed its tour across the US, will return to the ASU FIDM Museum in the future (exact date TBD). In the meantime, their upcoming exhibition, Fashion Statements, is set to open on September 5, 2024, in Los Angeles.
The next exhibition will showcase over 70 pieces ranging from the 18th century to today. "It's truly a celebration of fashion history, featuring everything from iconic designers to the eccentric quirks of the fashion world," Kevin said.
