Buzz
In his latest opinion piece, 'How We Are Ruining America,' David Brooks shares a thought-provoking story that highlights the deficiencies in the American education system, especially when it comes to understanding charcuterie:
Recently, I took a friend with only a high school education to a fancy lunch spot. Without thinking, I led her into an upscale sandwich shop. Immediately, I noticed her expression freeze when she saw sandwiches with names like 'Padrino' and 'Pomodoro,' and ingredients such as soppressata, capicollo, and a striata baguette. I quickly asked if she wanted to leave, and she eagerly agreed, so we ended up at a Mexican restaurant instead.
How awkward, right? It was clear she was uncomfortable with the Italian names, not the prices of the gourmet sandwiches. (After all, everyone knows you can't be Italian and poor.) At least I didn’t drag her to a French bistro or the IKEA food court, where the KÖTTBULLAR would have been a total disaster.
Thankfully, Mexican food saved the day—a cuisine with non-English menu items that are easier for those without a higher education to understand. (I like to imagine that Brooks ordered a mole dish just so he could offer a mini-lecture on how mole isn’t just one flavor.)
I certainly wouldn’t want such an unfortunate situation to happen to you, especially if a friend likes to take you to lunch as a sort of cultural test. So, I’ve put together a helpful guide to these premium Italian meats:
Soppressata: Entire courses could be dedicated to this particular salami, as it comes in various types, both dry-cured and fresh. I personally prefer Soppressata di Calabria, which has a nice, smoky and spicy taste with a vibrant red hue, quite different from Soppressata Toscana, an uncured variety mostly made from pig head.
Capicolla: 'Capicolla' is the regional name for 'capocollo,' a delicate pork cold cut made from the 'dry-cured muscle running from the neck to the 4th or 5th rib of the pork shoulder or neck.' Seasoning varies by region, but typically includes wine and garlic, which is always a win. These thin, fatty slices are perfect for enjoying in front of an open fridge at three in the morning.
Striata baguette: While this isn’t a meat, it is a bread that caused Brooks’ dining companion considerable stress, so we’ll discuss it. I had never encountered this term before, and believe me, my face froze too when I first saw those baffling words. It seems 'striata' simply means 'stretch,' and there’s been quite a debate about who actually invented stretch bread and what it truly is. I’m still a bit unclear on the details.
Mortadella: Not mentioned by Brooks, but mortadella is essentially fancy bologna with little cubes of pork fat inside, and I’ll happily enjoy it on white bread with American cheese if I want to, no apologies.
Prosciutto: While it wasn’t discussed in the op-ed, prosciutto is too important to ignore. It’s a delectable dry-cured ham that can be served either raw or cooked, though I can’t think of a good reason to cook those delicate, paper-thin slices. (There’s also prosciutto cotto, a lower-sodium cooked ham, which differs from the crudo version.) It’s best wrapped around cantaloupe or grilled pineapple.
I hope this has helped bridge some gaps in your meat knowledge, and if you ever come across a sandwich that fills you with dread, feel free to reach out. I’ll do my best to assist you.
