Buzz
After years of hosting, cooking, and writing about Thanksgiving dinner, I have a confession: I've never cooked my turkey in a roasting pan. I don’t even own a roasting pan large enough for a turkey, nor a roasting rack to support it. Instead, I roast my birds on a wire rack placed over a baking sheet, and the result is always flawless. In fact, it turns out better than expected.
Roasting pans are quite deep, and when you place a turkey inside, the sides rise around the lower body, obstructing heat and airflow. While the top of the bird may develop crispy skin, the bottom remains limp, pale, and soggy. As noted by Meathead Goldwyn of AmazingRibs.com, both trussing and using a roasting pan contribute to subpar bird skin texture:
I’m always taken aback by how many chefs recommend trussing the legs. The goal is to cook the dark meat faster than the white meat, but trussing pulls the legs in, making them part of the bird's core heat mass. As a result, the legs won’t cook properly, and the breasts may overcook. If you leave the legs untied, air circulates better, allowing them to cook faster and more evenly. Even chefs like Thomas Keller often truss the bird and place it in roasting pans. However, to ensure even cooking, you should raise the bird above the pan so warm air can flow underneath it, cooking the underside. I never roast a bird in a roasting pan—only on a rack above one.
He even shared a diagram illustrating the problem, which he graciously sent to me via email:
Fortunately, this issue has a simple fix: Just grab a wire rack. Place it over a rimmed baking sheet. By elevating the bird above the sides of the pan or any barriers, you'll ensure proper air circulation, resulting in beautifully crispy, golden skin all around.
