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Eggplant is at its peak from late summer to early fall, just before the young, fresh ones give way to imported, waterlogged varieties. Now is the time to savor eggplant with one of Sicily's finest creations.
Caponata is a traditional antipasto made with fried eggplant, celery, onions, olives, and capers. These ingredients come together, each flavor standing out, and when tossed in a sweet and tangy tomato sauce, they form a beloved Sicilian dish that also tells the story of the island’s rich cultural influences.
What makes caponata so special?
For Sicilians, caponata is more than just a dish—many readers may argue that I’ve already misrepresented it by leaving out ingredients like peppers, pine nuts, or raisins. This is because, although caponata may seem simple, there are countless variations across Sicily, from Palermo and Catania to Messina and Argento, and even more recipes that differ from family to family.
Sicily's history is a tapestry of conquests by empires such as the Normans and Arabs, each leaving an indelible mark. This rich past is reflected in the island’s cuisine, where a blend of cultures has shaped the food. In caponata, you’ll find a fusion of Greek olives, Italian tomatoes, and Arabic influences like agrodolce and, at times, raisins. These ingredients come together in a sweet, spicy, and vibrant compote, creating a dish that is both a culinary delight and a reminder of Sicily’s diverse heritage.
Serving Caponata
Caponata is often served as an appetizer, enjoyed alone or with bread, but its versatility is one of its strengths. Serve it on toasted bread as a bruschetta, pile it on a sandwich, or mix it with fresh pasta topped with a generous sprinkle of cheese—ricotta insalata is a popular choice, especially with pasta Alla Norma, though parmesan also works beautifully. It’s a wonderful accompaniment to grilled fish or meats, balancing their richness with its acidic punch.
For me, the ultimate pairing is caponata with sausage. Among the many ways to enjoy caponata, using it as a condiment is by far the most exciting. Think about it: tomato puree, sugar, and vinegar are the key ingredients of ketchup, which share the same components that bring out the agrodolce flavor in caponata.
How to Make Caponata (One Version of It):
Ingredients:
5 small Italian eggplants or two large eggplants, cut into 1-inch cubes with skins left on
1 small red onion
2-3 celery sticks, diced
1 cup passata or tomato purée
1 cup pitted and halved Castelvetrano olives
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
6 basil leaves
1 tablespoon capers (preferably in sea salt)
1 tablespoon pine nuts
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 cup grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Salt, pepper, and red pepper flakes to taste
Generously salt your cubed eggplant and let it sit for about 30 minutes to draw out excess moisture. In a skillet, heat a good amount of grapeseed oil. (While extra virgin olive oil is typically used for frying, grapeseed oil is perfect because of its high smoke point, preventing the eggplant from soaking up too much oil too quickly.) Fry the eggplant until it turns translucent and develops a nice golden brown color, then set it aside.
In a separate pan or skillet, heat olive oil and infuse it with crushed garlic and a generous pinch of red pepper flakes, allowing the oil to absorb the flavors. Add the onion and celery, cooking them until they become tender and translucent, which should take about five to ten minutes on medium heat. Then, stir in the passata or tomato purée, season with salt, and let the sauce simmer for 10-15 minutes.
At this stage, all the ingredients, both cooked and uncooked, come together. Remove the sauce from heat and stir in the fried eggplant, olives, capers, and all other remaining ingredients. Mix well, then return the caponata to the stove and let it simmer for about ten minutes. Afterward, allow it to cool to room temperature before transferring it to the fridge to let the flavors meld. The secret to a perfect caponata is letting it chill overnight before serving at room temperature. However, if you can't resist, a sneaky bite before it's fully chilled will still be delicious.
