Buzz
For burgers, I like to keep it straightforward. A thin, smashed patty, some gooey melted cheese, and a touch of onion, tomato, and pickles are all I need. I skip the fried eggs, avocado, or overly thick bacon. But I’m all in for cheese mayonnaise, which simplifies my already minimalist burger even more.
Cheese mayo is precisely what it sounds like—mayonnaise mixed with cheese. Developed by Chef Chris Kronner for his indulgent Kronnerburger (complete with bone marrow), this cheesy sauce was crafted to enhance the dry-aged patty without overpowering it. It also ensures a creamy texture, unlike cheddar slices that can harden.
Naturally, I began experimenting with Kronner’s original recipe, sparking an enthusiastic debate (in the best way) with my managing editor about cheese and mayo over Slack. Before diving into modifications, let’s break down the original sauce. Here’s what you’ll need:
3 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
¾ teaspoon mustard powder
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup vegetable or other neutral oil
3 ounces grated aged sharp white cheddar (I used yellow cheddar because it’s what I had)
I like using my immersion blender (the Food Lab way) to make mayo. I added all ingredients except the cheese into a tall plastic cup, pouring the oil last by letting it slide down the side. I placed the blender head at the bottom, turned it on high, and let it pull the oil down, moving it up and down to emulsify everything into mayo. Then, I transferred it to a food processor, added the cheese, and blended until smooth.
The result was a mayo with subtle pimento-cheese flavors and a hint of deviled egg filling. It’s perfect for burgers, but it also elevates a bacon and tomato sandwich. The recipe claims it lasts two weeks in the fridge, but I doubt it’ll survive that long. Luckily, I also made a smokier, bolder version alongside it.
As previously mentioned, you can mix more adventurous fats into your mayo, as long as you combine them with neutral oils like vegetable, grapeseed, or safflower. With cheese mayo, you can experiment with both the fat and the cheese. I chose schmaltz and blue cheese, and I have zero regrets. The chicken fat and blue cheese flavors stood out, creating a spread reminiscent of a meaty blue cheese dressing—but spreadable. To make it, you’ll need:
3 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
3/4 teaspoon mustard powder
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup schmaltz, melted but not hot
3/4 cup vegetable or other neutral oil
3 ounces crumbled blue cheese, such as gorgonzola
Prepare the mayo as described earlier, gently pouring the fats over the other ingredients before blending with an immersion blender. Add the blue cheese and process in a food processor until smooth. Use it to enhance burgers, club sandwiches, and more. Dip fries in it, mix it into potato salad, and enjoy every bite.
